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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few months ago during an oil change I was told there may be an oil leak in my car. So I brought into dealer who had done head gasket replacement and he fixed it under warranty. this week and brought to two dealers , and while there each did a free multi-point inspection.

The free multi-point inspections are wildly different for breaks, as well as a few other areas.

Dealer 1 says:
Brake linings measurements
LF:5mm
RF:5mm
LR:3mm
RR:3mm


Battery: Replace (I had replaced with non OEM in the last 3 months!)
Oil pump seal: Replace
Compliance bushings: Replace
Front spool valve: Leaking

Tires:
LF:2/32nd
RF:2/32nd
LR:3/32nd
RR:5/32d
Recommend all tires replace and 4 wheel alignment.

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Dealer 2 says: (I told them to specially look for leaks in all areas.)
Brake linings measurements

LF:7mm
RF:7mm
LR:5mm
RR:5mm


Battery: Pass, Cold crank actual 650
Oil pump seal:Fine (Found oil pan leak in that area.)
Compliance bushings:Not-marked or noted
Front spool valve: Not-marked or noted

Tires:
LF:4/32nd
RF:4/32nd
LR:5/32nd
RR:5/32d
Recommend front tires replace and 4 wheel alignment.

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So I asked dealer 2 very specifically about the rear brakes and he says there fine. 3mm is when they really recommend to replace and that I'm fine.

But what am I supposed to do? Should I take it to a 3rd dealer??????

Should I find a used bar buying inspection place and pay to have them do a similar inspection?

Do I talk to dealer 1 management and tell them I think they gave me a wildly padded inspection? Or are they right and they were just more thorough?

BTW: I think the tires don't need to be replaced TODAY but I do see uneven wear and will do them in the coming months.
 

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Wow, you are expecting a lot from a FREE multi point inspection. Do you think they spent hours going through all the multi points of your car? For the most point, these are just visual inspections. Most techs (like myself) can look at brake pads and tires and write down 2/32 or 4/32 and be very close since we do this type of work every day. It’s sort of like most traffic police officers who use radar, can gauge the speed of a car without using radar and be very close.

Anyway, as for the tires, you can purchase a tire depth gauge at any auto parts store for about $5 and measure the tire depth yourself. Depending where you measure on your tires (you mentioned uneven wear on your tires), you might find that both 2/32 and 4/32 are both correct on the same tire. For a FREE inspection, most techs will not spend a lot of time looking at all the tread of your tires and do an average of your tread. They will spend about 2 to 3 seconds on each tire and that’s it. Likewise, for your FREE brake inspection they will be doing the same thing.

As for the vehicle leaks, you know if you have a leak on the driveway or garage floor. Put a clean piece of cardboard under the vehicle which will give you an indication of where the leak is coming from. Check the fluid as to find out what component is leaking (Ex: Transmission fluid or oil). When you identify approximately where and what is leaking, take it back to the dealer to get that specifically repaired.

If you want to get a third or fourth opinion, you certainly can. But most likely it will just confuse you more. Do you agree with the new opinion or the majority opinion? What if all three or four opinions are all different?

The bottom line is: You got what you paid for with a FREE inspection. Techs don’t make money doing a free inspection and none of them like doing this service. Consequently, they do it very fast and often it is just in the ballpark and rarely accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The bottom line is: You got what you paid for with a FREE inspection. Techs don’t make money doing a free inspection and none of them like doing this service. Consequently, they do it very fast and often it is just in the ballpark and rarely accurate.
So I think this is my issue/what I didn't understand.

I figured if the dealer was inspecting they'd provide good, useful and accurate information so they could get me to do work with them. I have a LONG relationship/history at the dealer and I will perform work that is necessary - it's in my record - I'm a good customer.

But Dealer 1's recommendation for the brakes is that I have to do them IMMEDIATELY and Dealer 2 says "They can wait for a while." That's concerning to me - and I'll do them if they need to be done - I can afford brakes - but no need to do rear brakes until they need to be done.

I'm more worried that dealer 1 says "Oil Pump Reseal" and Dealer 2 didn't - even when I asked dealer 2 to specifically look for it. An failed oiled pump seal would do very serious damage to the car.

So let me ask you this: What if I offered to do a "paid" inspection, like when you purchase a used car? Would that be more accurate?
 

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Many technicians get commission, especially for things they sell. Unfortunately, this gives them the opportunity and benefit to “LIE” about things to sell a job. Are the tires 4/32 or 2/32? Can they sell an oil pump seal $1200, when in fact the oil is leaking down from the valve cover? Some technicians feel they need to lie a bit to make back their time for all the free inspections they do. I realize that you want peace-of-mind when driving your vehicle, but that can become very costly if your mechanic has lied to you.

I’m not sure what to tell you at this point. We all want to believe and trust our mechanics but the dealership puts them in a more profitable position if they lie. It’s not just dealerships, but independent shops too. Actually, I’ve found that independent shops are worse as they don’t work on Crosstour vehicles very often and must spend time guessing or researching the shop manuals to find out how to do specific repair jobs.

Bottomline: If it were me, I think I would make my concerns known (in writing) to the cheapest dealership (I believe dealer #2) and have them make the repairs. You now have a record that you made the dealership aware and if one of the specific problems occurred that dealer #1 mentioned, you can hold them “somewhat” responsible.

When you bring in the vehicle, have the service advisor write the service order exactly like the below.
  • Check battery and advise
  • Check for oil leak – possible oil pump seal leaking?
  • Check Compliance Bushings (Control Arm Bushings) and advise
  • Check Front Spool Valve and advise
  • Check all brakes, repair if lower than 2/32”
  • Check all tires, replace if 2/32” or lower.
(Save all old parts to return to the customer)

This way by listing the above, you are putting the obligation on the dealership for being more responsible for these specific items. Hope this helps.

NOTE: I use to have a handful of repair customers that would bring me a few donuts. Might not seem like much, but their car got taken care of: Above and Beyond.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Crashmaster - I am taking your advise and having the car inspected with those concerns in mind sometime this week.

I am going to go to dealer 3 in my area and schedule it like a used car pre-inspection and try to actually talk to the technician before he does the inspection.

And maybe I'll bring some snacks too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First, the shop I paid to inspect and advise.

Advise:
  • ALTERNATOR AMPERAGE OUTPUT: PASSED
  • STARTER TEST (D-TAC): PASSED
  • BATTERY TEST (D-TAC): FAILED <-Dealer 1 tagged this, dealer 2 did not
  • BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS:
  • FRONT LINING THICKNESS: 8.0 mm <-Dealer 2 closer
  • REAR BRAKE LINING THICKNESS: 2.75 mm <-Dealer 1 closer
  • TIRE INFLATION: - INFLATED TO: FRONT: 32 psi, REAR: 32 psi, SPARE: 60 psi
  • Says later rear tires should be done - front are okay. <-Different than dealer 1 or 2. (Note: This place does not do tires - they suggest Costco and/or Discount Tire.)

Leaks noted:
  • Power steering pump: 2/10
  • Power steering rack: 2-3/10 @ the gear assy.
  • Power steering return hose from the rack: 2/10
  • Front/rear VCM assemblies: 1/10 <-Dealer 1 wrong
  • Oil pump: 4/10 <-Dealer 1 said bad - this guy says it's fine and normal. More like seepage.
  • Possible right-hand axle seal (may be residual from prior leak above, cleaned-monitor.
  • Compliance bushings are good.
  • Struts are good/no leaks.
  • Front rotors are in spec, no braking vibration.
  • Exhaust system looks good, no leaks.
THE VEHICLE IS IN NEED OF THE FOLLOWING REPAIR(S) AND/OR SERVICE (S):

1. Battery replacement (failed testing).
2. Rear brake pads soon (approaching minimum friction).
3. Rear wiper arm/rear insert, recheck operation (the arm is appears to have been bent/poor wiper contact).
4. (2) tires soon (the rear tires are just about worn out).
5. Rear camber kit/s, wheel alignment post tires replacement (alignment is out of spec, right rear camber kit required to correct right rear camber).
6. Transmission fluid drain and refill (preventive recommendation based on the condtion of the fluid marginal).
7. Power steering system flush (preventive recommendation based on the condition of the fluid - marginal).
8. A/c system service including: check for contaminated freon; reclaim old freon; replace service port schrader valves; install fluorescent freon dye additive; evacuate and recharge system with virgin freon (preventive recommendation based on the vehicle's age, mileage, and past service history - unknown. Our recommended interval is 6 years/90,000 miles whichever occurs first).


The person says when talking to them:
  1. Rear brakes will be fine for a little while, but do them soon. (I will do in next few weeks.)
  2. Battery needs replacement. I bought from small local shop recently - will arrange an exchange this week.
  3. I should do rear tires and get alignment - the camber kit is a wait and see- might not be necessary. (I will do tires next week.)
  4. Transmission fluid done 4/19/2019 and Power Steering fluid done recently 7/30/2020, but they think should do again and then check in 10,000. Maybe last time done in not great manner, maybe not drained all the way. not sure if he recommends a 'flush'?? Asked for estimate - will do if inexpensive.
  5. None of the leaks noted are above "seepage" - and probably nothing to worry about for a while.
  6. Car in good shape – nothing seems to be in danger or serious.

Cost $100 to have inspected - worth it for peace of mind right now.

The tires + alignment might run 400-500 depending on tires?
Fluid change are like $100-$120 each? I'm assuming the 'flush' might be a little more.
 

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With regard to your brake pads, if you know how many miles you have driven since the last replacement, you can figure how many miles you have left. The original pads were probably 9mm deep or close thereto. Let's say that you have run 30,000 miles and you have 3mm left on the pad. That means that your normal use is (30,000/6) 5,000 miles per millimeter of brake pad material. At 3mm, you have 15,000 miles of normal use before you hit the backer plate (not a rotor-friendly thing). I'm fairly hard on brake pads but I still run my rear pads down to 2mm before I replace them. Although the CT is more rear brake biased that most Hondas that I've had, I still replace the fronts and the rears at the same time. I usually have 4mm left on the front when I do change the rears at 2mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With regard to your brake pads, if you know how many miles you have driven since the last replacement, you can figure how many miles you have left.
I am going to have them done next week, along with some fluid changes and the alignment (I bought new tires.)

I was just concerned about the discrepancies. Dealer 1 told me I should do front brakes NOW and that's plain wrong.

But yes, I think at 2.75mm I'd be good for a while, and I like you idea of seeing the mileage between brake jobs to establish a cadence of planning.

Seems like I do brakes every 35,000 miles or so, so I'm due . But 35k ago I did both front and rear and front seem almost new (Dealer 2 says 5mm, dealer 3 says 8mm) - but the rears are in worse shape.

I wonder if I did the fonts again at some point and just have no record of it?? Here's my maintenance list: What could go wrong at around 110k miles?
 
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