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What is this weird stopper thing in the floor?

1322 Views 42 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  skylize
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Working on fixing a hole in the floor, beneath my glove box. The piece I am repairing has a roughly 2 inch intentional hole that was plugged up by a piece of black plastic with a stiff white gasket around it, which I will refer to as simply "the stopper" until someone can give me a more accurate name for it.

The gasket on the stopper is quite warped now, and I expect I will not be able to reuse it. I tried digging through diagrams on Honda parts websites, but can't find anything that looks even vaguely like a match for the stopper or its gasket. Assuming this is actually an Accord/Crosstour part, what is the purpose of this hole and the stopper, and what is the name and part number to replace it?

This same spot in the floor has clearly been patched up before. So I could certainly imagine the patch came from some entirely different car model, and just brought this stopper along with it. So, "that's definitely not from a Crosstour" would certainly still be a helpful answer. In that case, I can just patch over where the stopper was, and move on without worry. (Though I would still be curious about what's its purpose is, if anyone can guess where the patch came from.)

Images show:
1. The hole in the floor and the passenger door speaker for perspective, with the stopper (hard to see) sitting where it would be installed.
2. Close-up of the stopper sitting where it would be installed. (I might have the stopper facing backward? I removed it in the dark while quickly hammering the damaged floor down enough to at least cover the hole with the carpet.)
3. The hole the stopper would fill, with the stopper removed.
4. The opposite side of the stopper.

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^^This is the parts page you can find it on^^
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Awesome. Thanks @Packernan120203. Any idea what the purpose is for the 25mm floor hole?
Awesome. Thanks @Packernan120203. Any idea what the purpose is for the 25mm floor hole?
Water drain is my guess. I'm also curious, wtf happened to your car?
Fell off a jack stand while I was trying to work out how to lift all 4 corners onto stands on my gravel and mud driveway. Biggest lesson there was to start in the back, so I have 2+ wheels on the ground while I have to lift from the side.

No idea why the exact same spot was already patched up, or whether it would have still punched all the way through if it was still properly welded. It was a rebuilt title, but the photos and info the dealer gave me focused mostly on the driver side door (plus a lot of miscellaneous large but subtle dents all over that weren't fixed). He made no mention of any holes in the floor.
Fell off a jack stand while I was trying to work out how to lift all 4 corners onto stands on my gravel and mud driveway. Biggest lesson there was to start in the back, so I have 2+ wheels on the ground while I have to lift from the side.

No idea why the exact same spot was already patched up, or whether it would have still punched all the way through if it was still properly welded. It was a rebuilt title, but the photos and info the dealer gave me focused mostly on the driver side door (plus a lot of miscellaneous large but subtle dents all over that weren't fixed). He made no mention of any holes in the floor.
Crazy

Were you using the pinch weld areas across the frame? Cause if I wanted all 4 corners up at the same time for whatever reason this is the procedure I'd use: use a jack on the front area I highlighted in red and put jackstands on the pinch welded section up front that I marked in blue, if you're on uneven/soft ground put a decently thick sheet of wood down below the jackstands. Then once the front stands are set up move to the back and lift on the rear subframe in red again (you dont have 4wd but there should still be something right behind the tire carrier), and then put jackstands on the rear part of the pinch weld in blue again
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<--Front-----Back-->
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Crazy

Were you using the pinch weld areas across the frame? Cause if I wanted all 4 corners up at the same time for whatever reason this is the procedure I'd use: use a jack on the front area I highlighted in red and put jackstands on the pinch welded section up front that I marked in blue, if you're on uneven/soft ground put a decently thick sheet of wood down below the jackstands. Then once the front stands are set up move to the back and lift on the rear subframe in red again (you dont have 4wd but there should still be something right behind the tire carrier), and then put jackstands on the rear part of the pinch weld in blue again

<--Front-----Back-->
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to take another look under the back and compare to your picture. I was lifting from right next to the pinch welds. In the front, I use the center factory lift point.
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I looked at the parts pages for 2wd vs 4wd crosstours and while they have different part numbers they're basically the same. Both were used for all 5 years for i4/v6 2wd and v6 4wd, this is a 2010 2wd, but that rear subframe is what yours will look like: identical to the 4wd, just unused rear diff mounts so putting a jack there wont be an issue.
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Here's mine from that point when I tested out my new jack. This is actually how I had it set up when I did the sway bar, just not as high.
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I looked at the parts pages for 2wd vs 4wd crosstours and while they have different part numbers they're basically the same. Both were used for all 5 years for i4/v6 2wd and v6 4wd, this is a 2010 2wd, but that rear subframe is what yours will look like: identical to the 4wd, just unused rear diff mounts so putting a jack there wont be an issue.
View attachment 10221


Here's mine from that point when I tested out my new jack. This is actually how I had it set up when I did the sway bar, just not as high.
View attachment 10222
Is that photo sewing up being lifted from the rear differential? There's no rear jacking point on these cross tours.
Fell off a jack stand while I was trying to work out how to lift all 4 corners onto stands on my gravel and mud driveway. Biggest lesson there was to start in the back, so I have 2+ wheels on the ground while I have to lift from the side.

No idea why the exact same spot was already patched up, or whether it would have still punched all the way through if it was still properly welded. It was a rebuilt title, but the photos and info the dealer gave me focused mostly on the driver side door (plus a lot of miscellaneous large but subtle dents all over that weren't fixed). He made no mention of any holes in the floor.
You need to buy some at least 12 in by 12 in cement bricks to put your jack stands on, not a good idea jacking it up on mud and gravel
Is that photo sewing up being lifted from the rear differential? There's no rear jacking point on these cross tours.
It’s the rear subframe, not the differential, i can take a better picture of where i lifted it from but its right between the diff and the spare tire carrier, like the frame picture shows. It might not be “recommended“ but it works well enough for me to do the entire sway bar job without jackstands.
It’s the rear subframe, not the differential, i can take a better picture of where i lifted it from but its right between the diff and the spare tire carrier, like the frame picture shows. It might not be “recommended“ but it works well enough for me to do the entire sway bar job without jackstands.
I'd be curious to see what you are jacking from as there is no actual rear jack point unlike the accords. Though from the old sway bar post, you can do the job without lifting the car in any way. I'll use my ramps for ease of access, but I'm definitely curious where you lift from.
The gravel spreads down at least 10 inches deep from 60+ years of being a gravel driveway. The mud is buildup from 15 years of decayed leaf fall on top of the most recent layer. There's grass and weeds growing through it, giving structure to most of whatever is not gravel.

I have zero concern that the cars overall weight would fail to be supported. I only worry about small soft spots in between the topmost layer of rocks. I definitely should have had some strong boards underneath to distribute the contact weight going through the jack stands, which only touch down in their corners. That was a big mistake, which I paid for with my floor. But there is certainly no need for a foot of concrete just to handle a few thousand pounds of car for a few hours or days.
The gravel spreads down at least 10 inches deep from 60+ years of being a gravel driveway. The mud is buildup from 15 years of decayed leaf fall on top of the most recent layer. There's grass and weeds growing through it, giving structure to most of whatever is not gravel.

I have zero concern that the cars overall weight would fail to be supported. I only worry about small soft spots in between the topmost layer of rocks. I definitely should have had some strong boards underneath to distribute the contact weight going through the jack stands, which only touch down in their corners. That was a big mistake, which I paid for with my floor. But there is certainly no need for a foot of concrete just to handle a few thousand pounds of car for a few hours or days.
I said concrete bricks, I never said a foot deep of concrete. You can buy flat bricks made of concrete that are 2-3" thick and all different sizes like 12"x12" wide.
I said concrete bricks, I never said a foot deep of concrete. You can buy flat bricks made of concrete that are 2-3" thick and all different sizes like 12"x12" wide.
Oh. That makes more sense. 😂

I think wood should get the job done fine, though. As I said. There's plenty of support strength underneath. Just need to keep any individual corner of a jack stand from putting all it's weight down directly into a soft spot.
Having trouble squaring up your picture with reality of the underside of my car. What spot(s) would you feel comfortable lifting from here?

Yellow: Front edge of the spare tire rack (for reference).

Blue: Pretty sure I can reach here fairly cleanly from behind the left tire, by carefully aligning parallel to the exhaust pipe that would otherwise be in the way (the same way the blue arrow is pointing). But the stability looks a bit questionable without knowing more about how it's built and connected. When you talk about the bad idea of lifting "from the rear differential", are you referring to this stretch of steel?

Green: I can get here either from the back or behind the left tire. There's no space to properly lift the jack's lever to pump it. But if I'm willing to spend a while doing a ton of micropumps to get it off the ground, I think it should be manageable.

Purple: Unbearably curious wtf is this seemingly random bit of steel shaped like a hose nozzle supposed to be for.

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Having trouble squaring up your picture with reality of the underside of my car. What spot(s) would you feel comfortable lifting from here?

Yellow: Front edge of the spare tire rack (for reference).

Blue: Pretty sure I can reach here fairly cleanly from behind the left tire, by carefully aligning parallel to the exhaust pipe that would otherwise be in the way (the same way the blue arrow is pointing). But the stability looks a bit questionable without knowing more about how it's built and connected. When you talk about the bad idea of lifting "from the rear differential", are you referring to this stretch of steel?

Green: I can get here either from the back or behind the left tire. There's no space to properly lift the jack's lever to pump it. But if I'm willing to spend a while doing a ton of micropumps to get it off the ground, I think it should be manageable.

Purple: Unbearably curious wtf is this seemingly random bit of steel shaped like a hose nozzle supposed to be for.
I didn't notice that your crosstour is an i4 FWD, So the back is very different from mine. I honestly would not lift the car from either of your two points shown (Blue Or Green), but being it looks like a rear subframe, it's likely strong enough to handle it. To get it high enough to go on a jack stand, I wouldn't trust it to be stable enough. I find center jacking sketchy even if it's done on a jack point, but maybe my skinny jack just sucks too, who knows. The back of mine is very different as ifs a 4WD model, if I had no choice but to lift it from the back due to some major problem, I would probably lift it by the Rear differential, though I'd still need to talk to other people about that to determine if it would damage the vehicle in any way. It's stupid that they didn't stick on some kind of rear jack point/tow loop like the accords have.

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I guess I don't even have a rear differential because of not being AWD? That makes sense as to why I couldn't figure out what you guys were talking about regarding trying to lift from it. 🫠

The aluminum cast block in the center of your photo would be the diff' in question, right? My guess is that @Packernan120203 is suggesting to lift from the flat-ish bar that its rear side is bolted to.
I guess I don't even have a rear differential because of not being AWD? That makes sense as to why I couldn't figure out what you guys were talking about regarding trying to lift from it. 🫠

The aluminum cast block in the center of your photo would be the diff' in question, right? My guess is that @Packernan120203 is suggesting to lift from the flat-ish bar that its rear side is bolted to.
Yes that's why. Mine is a V6 4WD, and the silver in the middle is the rear differential, something commonly used to lift vehicles. That should be the rear subframe, and you probably could lift from there safely. I don't know that I would, Id just try to avoid needing to lift from the rear if possible, but you could probably do it there without damaging the vehicle.
I didn't notice that your crosstour is an i4 FWD
What is "i4"?
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