^^This is the parts page you can find it on^^
Water drain is my guess. I'm also curious, wtf happened to your car?Awesome. Thanks @Packernan120203. Any idea what the purpose is for the 25mm floor hole?
CrazyFell off a jack stand while I was trying to work out how to lift all 4 corners onto stands on my gravel and mud driveway. Biggest lesson there was to start in the back, so I have 2+ wheels on the ground while I have to lift from the side.
No idea why the exact same spot was already patched up, or whether it would have still punched all the way through if it was still properly welded. It was a rebuilt title, but the photos and info the dealer gave me focused mostly on the driver side door (plus a lot of miscellaneous large but subtle dents all over that weren't fixed). He made no mention of any holes in the floor.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to take another look under the back and compare to your picture. I was lifting from right next to the pinch welds. In the front, I use the center factory lift point.Crazy
Were you using the pinch weld areas across the frame? Cause if I wanted all 4 corners up at the same time for whatever reason this is the procedure I'd use: use a jack on the front area I highlighted in red and put jackstands on the pinch welded section up front that I marked in blue, if you're on uneven/soft ground put a decently thick sheet of wood down below the jackstands. Then once the front stands are set up move to the back and lift on the rear subframe in red again (you dont have 4wd but there should still be something right behind the tire carrier), and then put jackstands on the rear part of the pinch weld in blue again
<--Front-----Back-->
Is that photo sewing up being lifted from the rear differential? There's no rear jacking point on these cross tours.I looked at the parts pages for 2wd vs 4wd crosstours and while they have different part numbers they're basically the same. Both were used for all 5 years for i4/v6 2wd and v6 4wd, this is a 2010 2wd, but that rear subframe is what yours will look like: identical to the 4wd, just unused rear diff mounts so putting a jack there wont be an issue.
View attachment 10221
Here's mine from that point when I tested out my new jack. This is actually how I had it set up when I did the sway bar, just not as high.
View attachment 10222
You need to buy some at least 12 in by 12 in cement bricks to put your jack stands on, not a good idea jacking it up on mud and gravelFell off a jack stand while I was trying to work out how to lift all 4 corners onto stands on my gravel and mud driveway. Biggest lesson there was to start in the back, so I have 2+ wheels on the ground while I have to lift from the side.
No idea why the exact same spot was already patched up, or whether it would have still punched all the way through if it was still properly welded. It was a rebuilt title, but the photos and info the dealer gave me focused mostly on the driver side door (plus a lot of miscellaneous large but subtle dents all over that weren't fixed). He made no mention of any holes in the floor.
It’s the rear subframe, not the differential, i can take a better picture of where i lifted it from but its right between the diff and the spare tire carrier, like the frame picture shows. It might not be “recommended“ but it works well enough for me to do the entire sway bar job without jackstands.Is that photo sewing up being lifted from the rear differential? There's no rear jacking point on these cross tours.
I'd be curious to see what you are jacking from as there is no actual rear jack point unlike the accords. Though from the old sway bar post, you can do the job without lifting the car in any way. I'll use my ramps for ease of access, but I'm definitely curious where you lift from.It’s the rear subframe, not the differential, i can take a better picture of where i lifted it from but its right between the diff and the spare tire carrier, like the frame picture shows. It might not be “recommended“ but it works well enough for me to do the entire sway bar job without jackstands.
I said concrete bricks, I never said a foot deep of concrete. You can buy flat bricks made of concrete that are 2-3" thick and all different sizes like 12"x12" wide.The gravel spreads down at least 10 inches deep from 60+ years of being a gravel driveway. The mud is buildup from 15 years of decayed leaf fall on top of the most recent layer. There's grass and weeds growing through it, giving structure to most of whatever is not gravel.
I have zero concern that the cars overall weight would fail to be supported. I only worry about small soft spots in between the topmost layer of rocks. I definitely should have had some strong boards underneath to distribute the contact weight going through the jack stands, which only touch down in their corners. That was a big mistake, which I paid for with my floor. But there is certainly no need for a foot of concrete just to handle a few thousand pounds of car for a few hours or days.
Oh. That makes more sense. 😂I said concrete bricks, I never said a foot deep of concrete. You can buy flat bricks made of concrete that are 2-3" thick and all different sizes like 12"x12" wide.
I didn't notice that your crosstour is an i4 FWD, So the back is very different from mine. I honestly would not lift the car from either of your two points shown (Blue Or Green), but being it looks like a rear subframe, it's likely strong enough to handle it. To get it high enough to go on a jack stand, I wouldn't trust it to be stable enough. I find center jacking sketchy even if it's done on a jack point, but maybe my skinny jack just sucks too, who knows. The back of mine is very different as ifs a 4WD model, if I had no choice but to lift it from the back due to some major problem, I would probably lift it by the Rear differential, though I'd still need to talk to other people about that to determine if it would damage the vehicle in any way. It's stupid that they didn't stick on some kind of rear jack point/tow loop like the accords have.Having trouble squaring up your picture with reality of the underside of my car. What spot(s) would you feel comfortable lifting from here?
Yellow: Front edge of the spare tire rack (for reference).
Blue: Pretty sure I can reach here fairly cleanly from behind the left tire, by carefully aligning parallel to the exhaust pipe that would otherwise be in the way (the same way the blue arrow is pointing). But the stability looks a bit questionable without knowing more about how it's built and connected. When you talk about the bad idea of lifting "from the rear differential", are you referring to this stretch of steel?
Green: I can get here either from the back or behind the left tire. There's no space to properly lift the jack's lever to pump it. But if I'm willing to spend a while doing a ton of micropumps to get it off the ground, I think it should be manageable.
Purple: Unbearably curious wtf is this seemingly random bit of steel shaped like a hose nozzle supposed to be for.
Yes that's why. Mine is a V6 4WD, and the silver in the middle is the rear differential, something commonly used to lift vehicles. That should be the rear subframe, and you probably could lift from there safely. I don't know that I would, Id just try to avoid needing to lift from the rear if possible, but you could probably do it there without damaging the vehicle.I guess I don't even have a rear differential because of not being AWD? That makes sense as to why I couldn't figure out what you guys were talking about regarding trying to lift from it. 🫠
The aluminum cast block in the center of your photo would be the diff' in question, right? My guess is that @Packernan120203 is suggesting to lift from the flat-ish bar that its rear side is bolted to.
What is "i4"?I didn't notice that your crosstour is an i4 FWD