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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the timing belt replaced, replaced water pump, had valve adjustment, replaced gaskets, had the front axels replaced and replaced a lot of fluid at 102k miles.

What are the next big things that can go wrong?

Suspension stuff?
Transmission?

What should I budget for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I made a spreadsheet of my maintainence for fun. Let's compare?

Date of serviceMileagePriceNotes
3/17/2021​
107271
0.00​
Replaced rear head gasket
3/11/2021​
107149
69.29​
Oil Change
2/3/2021​
136​
Replaced Battery
11/18/2020​
42​
Smog Check
7/31/2020​
101792
1626.32​
Replaced front left and right drive shaft
6/17/2020​
99488
2442.60​
Replaced Spark Plugs, Valve Adjustment, Timing Belt, Tensioner, Water pump, Oil seals. Oil change. Power steering fluid. Break fluid
10/22/2019​
92875
44.88​
Oil Change
4/19/2019​
87164
170.91​
Transmission Fluid.
4/12/2019​
86956
169.67​
Oil change. Wipers. Rear hatch struts
10/19/2018​
81668
423.98​
Replaced 2 tires
10/17/2018​
81630
44.88​
Oil Change
8/6/2018​
80900
229.99​
Detail
3/2/2018​
75890
44.88​
Oil Change
10/17/2017​
71929
749.08​
Fob Battery replaced. Front Brakes. Rear brakes. Driver axle seal leaking. Complete fuel system service. Brake fluid flush.
7/28/2017​
68817
44.88​
Oil Change
12/22/2016​
61659
44.88​
Oil Change
10/26/2016​
60000
132.74​
Replaced Damaged tire
7/30/2016​
58677
0.00​
Replaced Steering rack
5/24/2016​
55267
486.33​
Replaced Steering rack. Replaced Transmission fluid. Oil Change. Rear hatch weather-strip replaced.
4/12/2016​
54045
144.74​
Replaced damaged tire
12/16/2015​
49666
324.91​
Oil Change. Replaced 2 tires. Replace wiper blades
6/22/2015​
42449
47.35​
Oil Change
1/2/2015​
36709
567.85​
Replaced front and back brakes. Replace transmission fluid
12/23/2014​
35330
54.88​
Oil Change
3/10/2014​
23450
54.88​
Oil Change
8/17/2013​
14964
54.88​
Oil Change
3/18/2013​
6977
54.88​
Oil Change
8207.68​
 

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It was around 130k I replaced front struts with KYB.
Emission codes P0420 and P0430 became a problem at 140-150k. I could have saved my original catalytic converters if I'd known about disabling the VCM. Replaced those at 180k.
Started having issues with Vtec solenoid assemblies. Had replaced an oil sensor. Ok for a while until I couldn't get it out of limp mode. Replaced both Vtec solenoid assemblies with spools at 201k. Had the oil leak around the dip stick. So doing this job saved my alternator from the known oil drip problem. Oil pan and pump reseal at 251k.
Currently sitting at 262k on my high milage Crosstour. I credit Valvoline MaxLife ATF for never having a single transmission problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It was around 130k I replaced front struts with KYB.
Emission codes P0420 and P0430 became a problem at 140-150k. I could have saved my original catalytic converters if I'd known about disabling the VCM. Replaced those at 180k.
Started having issues with Vtec solenoid assemblies. Had replaced an oil sensor. Ok for a while until I couldn't get it out of limp mode. Replaced both Vtec solenoid assemblies with spools at 201k. Had the oil leak around the dip stick. So doing this job saved my alternator from the known oil drip problem. Oil pan and pump reseal at 251k.
Currently sitting at 262k on my high milage Crosstour. I credit Valvoline MaxLife ATF for never having a single transmission problem.
Other than the steering rack replacement (x2) the car was very inexpensive to maintain until it hit 100k and I did the preventive maintenance and had the drive shafts traded out.

Looking at you items none of the jobs cost over $1000 except maybe the catalytic converter - if I can keep this thing going for less a $1000-$1500 a year in repairs (not oil or tries) then I'll get another 5-10 years out of it!! Buying a new car would like be $600 a month in payments - and I like my car.
 

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Other than the steering rack replacement (x2) the car was very inexpensive to maintain until it hit 100k and I did the preventive maintenance and had the drive shafts traded out.

Looking at you items none of the jobs cost over $1000 except maybe the catalytic converter - if I can keep this thing going for less a $1000-$1500 a year in repairs (not oil or tries) then I'll get another 5-10 years out of it!! Buying a new car would like be $600 a month in payments - and I like my car.
At the time I DIY my front and back catalytic converters, it cost me around $900 for OEM. Those same cats today are even more. This is why I highly recommend disabling the VCM.
That vtec oil leak at the dipstick can cost you an alternator. Many have suffered the loss of a perfectly good alternator to oil dripping down into it. I'd watch for any sign of leaking there. The 2 gaskets are any easy DIY.
I never replaced the steering rack, but I've always tried to keep my power steering fluid freshened up. I still have the original power steering pump at 262k. Original alternator had to be replaced at 250k.
 
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