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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the timing belt replaced, replaced water pump, had valve adjustment, replaced gaskets, had the front axels replaced and replaced a lot of fluid at 102k miles.

What are the next big things that can go wrong?

Suspension stuff?
Transmission?

What should I budget for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I made a spreadsheet of my maintainence for fun. Let's compare?

Date of serviceMileagePriceNotes
3/17/2021​
107271
0.00​
Replaced rear head gasket
3/11/2021​
107149
69.29​
Oil Change
2/3/2021​
136​
Replaced Battery
11/18/2020​
42​
Smog Check
7/31/2020​
101792
1626.32​
Replaced front left and right drive shaft
6/17/2020​
99488
2442.60​
Replaced Spark Plugs, Valve Adjustment, Timing Belt, Tensioner, Water pump, Oil seals. Oil change. Power steering fluid. Break fluid
10/22/2019​
92875
44.88​
Oil Change
4/19/2019​
87164
170.91​
Transmission Fluid.
4/12/2019​
86956
169.67​
Oil change. Wipers. Rear hatch struts
10/19/2018​
81668
423.98​
Replaced 2 tires
10/17/2018​
81630
44.88​
Oil Change
8/6/2018​
80900
229.99​
Detail
3/2/2018​
75890
44.88​
Oil Change
10/17/2017​
71929
749.08​
Fob Battery replaced. Front Brakes. Rear brakes. Driver axle seal leaking. Complete fuel system service. Brake fluid flush.
7/28/2017​
68817
44.88​
Oil Change
12/22/2016​
61659
44.88​
Oil Change
10/26/2016​
60000
132.74​
Replaced Damaged tire
7/30/2016​
58677
0.00​
Replaced Steering rack
5/24/2016​
55267
486.33​
Replaced Steering rack. Replaced Transmission fluid. Oil Change. Rear hatch weather-strip replaced.
4/12/2016​
54045
144.74​
Replaced damaged tire
12/16/2015​
49666
324.91​
Oil Change. Replaced 2 tires. Replace wiper blades
6/22/2015​
42449
47.35​
Oil Change
1/2/2015​
36709
567.85​
Replaced front and back brakes. Replace transmission fluid
12/23/2014​
35330
54.88​
Oil Change
3/10/2014​
23450
54.88​
Oil Change
8/17/2013​
14964
54.88​
Oil Change
3/18/2013​
6977
54.88​
Oil Change
8207.68​
 

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It was around 130k I replaced front struts with KYB.
Emission codes P0420 and P0430 became a problem at 140-150k. I could have saved my original catalytic converters if I'd known about disabling the VCM. Replaced those at 180k.
Started having issues with Vtec solenoid assemblies. Had replaced an oil sensor. Ok for a while until I couldn't get it out of limp mode. Replaced both Vtec solenoid assemblies with spools at 201k. Had the oil leak around the dip stick. So doing this job saved my alternator from the known oil drip problem. Oil pan and pump reseal at 251k.
Currently sitting at 262k on my high milage Crosstour. I credit Valvoline MaxLife ATF for never having a single transmission problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It was around 130k I replaced front struts with KYB.
Emission codes P0420 and P0430 became a problem at 140-150k. I could have saved my original catalytic converters if I'd known about disabling the VCM. Replaced those at 180k.
Started having issues with Vtec solenoid assemblies. Had replaced an oil sensor. Ok for a while until I couldn't get it out of limp mode. Replaced both Vtec solenoid assemblies with spools at 201k. Had the oil leak around the dip stick. So doing this job saved my alternator from the known oil drip problem. Oil pan and pump reseal at 251k.
Currently sitting at 262k on my high milage Crosstour. I credit Valvoline MaxLife ATF for never having a single transmission problem.
Other than the steering rack replacement (x2) the car was very inexpensive to maintain until it hit 100k and I did the preventive maintenance and had the drive shafts traded out.

Looking at you items none of the jobs cost over $1000 except maybe the catalytic converter - if I can keep this thing going for less a $1000-$1500 a year in repairs (not oil or tries) then I'll get another 5-10 years out of it!! Buying a new car would like be $600 a month in payments - and I like my car.
 

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Other than the steering rack replacement (x2) the car was very inexpensive to maintain until it hit 100k and I did the preventive maintenance and had the drive shafts traded out.

Looking at you items none of the jobs cost over $1000 except maybe the catalytic converter - if I can keep this thing going for less a $1000-$1500 a year in repairs (not oil or tries) then I'll get another 5-10 years out of it!! Buying a new car would like be $600 a month in payments - and I like my car.
At the time I DIY my front and back catalytic converters, it cost me around $900 for OEM. Those same cats today are even more. This is why I highly recommend disabling the VCM.
That vtec oil leak at the dipstick can cost you an alternator. Many have suffered the loss of a perfectly good alternator to oil dripping down into it. I'd watch for any sign of leaking there. The 2 gaskets are any easy DIY.
I never replaced the steering rack, but I've always tried to keep my power steering fluid freshened up. I still have the original power steering pump at 262k. Original alternator had to be replaced at 250k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A new rapiar has been added:
Date of serviceMileagePriceNotes
5/16/2021109100426.82Reseal oil pan + oil change + Lyft ride overage.

I brought the car into Dealer 1 and they said there was an oil leak the suspected was either in the crankshaft area (deep inside the engine) or possible oil pump leak/oil pump failure - and it's cost to diagnose more. I took it away and brought to Dealer 2 who had done the timing belt/valve stuff last year thinking it might have been in there.

Dealer 2 says it's a small oil pan leak - not leak from oil pump or crankshaft. Oil pan drained, taken off ,a installed, resealed with HondaBond HT silicone and oil change/filter done.

I can't tell if they put a new gasket on?? They must have but its now listed on the parts list - I'll contact them tomorrow and see what's up.
 

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A new rapiar has been added:
Date of serviceMileagePriceNotes
5/16/2021109100426.82Reseal oil pan + oil change + Lyft ride overage.

I brought the car into Dealer 1 and they said there was an oil leak the suspected was either in the crankshaft area (deep inside the engine) or possible oil pump leak/oil pump failure - and it's cost to diagnose more. I took it away and brought to Dealer 2 who had done the timing belt/valve stuff last year thinking it might have been in there.

Dealer 2 says it's a small oil pan leak - not leak from oil pump or crankshaft. Oil pan drained, taken off ,a installed, resealed with HondaBond HT silicone and oil change/filter done.

I can't tell if they put a new gasket on?? They must have but its now listed on the parts list - I'll contact them tomorrow and see what's up.
To remove the oil pan, the exhaust pipe must be dropped. There are 3 (2 and 1) gaskets that may have been replaced to insure there are no exhaust leaks.
There is a gasket (o-ring) that is optional to replace on the oil pickup tube. It is only accessible by removing the oil pan. The oil pan itself is not sealed by using a gasket, they use Honda Bond. There is a gasket behind the oil pump. Did they seal the pump too? It's called the Oil Hole Gasket, found at the top of this photo.
9886

The only other gasket that they might have replaced is the oil filter housing gasket. This is mounted to the oil pump.
9887
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To remove the oil pan, the exhaust pipe must be dropped. There are 3 (2 and 1) gaskets that may have been replaced to insure there are no exhaust leaks. There is a gasket (o-ring) that is optional to replace on the oil pickup tube. It is only accessible by removing the oil pan. The oil pan itself is not sealed by using a gasket, they use Honda Bond. There is a gasket behind the oil pump. Did they seal the pump too? It's called the Oil Hole Gasket, found at the top of this photo.

The only other gasket that they might have replaced is the oil filter housing gasket. This is mounted to the oil pump.
The Reseal Oil Pan Repair as described:
Reseal oil pan with oil change
Honabond HT [030h/08718-004] :23.99
Labor to perform repairs as described: $350.00
Total:$373.99

Oil change has these parts listed: Filter, Washer, Drian, Oil, Hazardous waste fee.

I'll be so upset if they didn't give me the option to replace very inexpensive seals when doing this job - maybe they simply forgot to list them - but man, I told them that I want to keep the car - I can't believe they wouldn't suggest them, especially since I'd pay for them.

Is that an over-reaction on my part?
 

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Is that an over-reaction on my part?
I do feel they should replace the exhaust crush ring gaskets when the exhaust pipe is removed (that's my opinion). They may know that it's ok to reuse, I don't. The O-ring on the oil pickup tube is likely ok since it's undisturbed, but ya, for a $2 part, why not. The tube is held on with three small 10mm bolts. Some may argue that you could also replace the Relief Valve and Relief Valve Spring in the oil pump.
9888

These are only accessible with the pan off. These parts rarely fail unless someone uses the wrong weight oil or an oil filter that has a bad relief valve. I replaced because my vehicle was high milage and the parts were cheap.
I guess what bugs me the most is resealing the oil pan is only half of what will eventually need to be done. The oil pump will also need to be resealed with a new oil hole gasket (usually 200k miles +), The oil pan will have to be removed again. This is best done with the timing belt water pump job because the timing belt must be removed to be able to remove the oil pump. If the resealing of the pan stops all your oil leaks for now, I wouldn't be upset. I would be concerned for any hint of a exhaust odor, knowing they reused the old gaskets. If you suspect an exhaust leak, dont hesitate to have the gaskets replaced. At least now you would know why.
 

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It was around 130k I replaced front struts with KYB.
Emission codes P0420 and P0430 became a problem at 140-150k. I could have saved my original catalytic converters if I'd known about disabling the VCM. Replaced those at 180k.
Started having issues with Vtec solenoid assemblies. Had replaced an oil sensor. Ok for a while until I couldn't get it out of limp mode. Replaced both Vtec solenoid assemblies with spools at 201k. Had the oil leak around the dip stick. So doing this job saved my alternator from the known oil drip problem. Oil pan and pump reseal at 251k.
Currently sitting at 262k on my high milage Crosstour. I credit Valvoline MaxLife ATF for never having a single transmission problem.
Hello NailGrease,

If you remember were your KYB struts shorter?

Thank You,
Chris
 
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