. . .
thanks for the love yes more to come and I already have BBK in mind working with a few people to see if we can make some stuff work and fit. so stay tuned!
Mikedct - I'm doing some part # cross-checking and research on an off the shelf factory part BBK and I'm glad to share any and all findings with you. . .
The CT does start with some of the bigger brakes in the Honda parts catalog w/ 10.7" vented rotors up front with rather large 2 piston calipers and according to
Edmunds review does 60-0 in 131 ft which is good but not great.
I tend to like OEM part sourcing because parts are always available, drastically cheaper than a Brembo kit, probably better components than are in a lot of other kits, and too many people have fake Brembo covers and stock brake discs with holes drilled into them for no good reason.
There seem to be two popular OEM BBK ways to go:
1.
TL-S OEM Brembo 4-piston calipers, w/ S2K 11.x" front rotors, maybe our stock rotors would work, dunno, and sometimes a hub and/or steering knuckle change out. All that might not be necessary because in total exterior size those brake calipers might be smaller than ours.
S2K rotors w/ TL-S Brembo OEM calipers (note long titanium racing studs)
2. And older RL front calipers which have the biggest overall clamping area of any Honda caliper made. They are often paired with Nissan OEM brake rotors from the 350z (12.x") up to the G37 (14", and very heavy). I'm not familiar enough with the CT's brake component pieces, but at least on some Honda models, the RL caliper appears to be an easier swap.
Article 1 &
Article 2
This is a rotor 1" bigger than ours, and the caliper still looks huge
If serious interest was present, I'd look into the OEM brake boosters on all of these vehicles and see how they compare, I would anticipate the TL-S & RL both might be underboosted a bit compared to the CT.
And the other thing I would make sure not to do if I did this for myself was to intermingle different kinds of wheel studs and lug nuts. A lot of ricers whose knowledge of cars is relayed exclusively through Vin Diesel will put long Titanium or steel alloy studs through the hub and use special "lightweight aluminum racing nuts." Stick w/ OE studs & nuts if you can, and if you need longer studs for wheel/brake fitment reasons make sure they are made out of the identical metal to the nuts. Aluminum nuts have elasticity, different tensile properties, and you generally throw them away after so many cycles because they get fatigued. And titanium is so corrosion resistant, almost any dissimilar metal you thread onto it will act like the sacrificial rod inside your water heater and get all rusty. Sorry to nerd out, but I did work a short short time in materials engineering and one place I wouldn't want to mess around would be the point at which my wheels attach to my car, and it scares me that anyone can seemingly sell any aftermarket part for people to put on their vehicles.
Wow this was a long post to type all from my iphone will driving!
-ace
