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Hello, I have a 2014 V6 Honda Crosstour. When should I get the timing belt changed? It is almost at 100,000 miles as well. Thank you!
 

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Welcome. The interval is 7 years or 100,000 miles which ever comes first. I just did my 2013 42k mile CT timing belt due to 7 years.

Here is where you can download your manual: Owners Manual for | Honda | Honda Owners

On page 467 I read that it is subcode 4. Code 4 has this additional note: If you drive regularly in very high temperatures (over 110°F, 43°C), in very low temperatures (under -20°F, -29°C), or tow a trailer, replace every 60,000 miles (U.S.)/100,000 km (Canada).

I could be wrong, but believe these are additional maintenance tasks tor 100k miles: inspect valve clearance, and replace spark plugs. Possibly code 5 replace engine coolant, and change differential fluid.

The valve adjustment is not a simple job. Many people with a couple hundred thousand miles don't ever adjust theirs. I don't make a recommendation either way because I just don't know.

Good luck! Maybe others can verify this.
 

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I read somewhere it was 7 years or 105,000 miles. So depending on when your vehicle was made (month and year on the vehicle VIN sticker in the door jam), like if it were made say 9/13 your actually a little over a month overdue according to Honda.
Do you DIY?
 

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I just change my Crosstour no.1 at 251k miles. It's 3rd timing belt water pump job. I've been changing it every 90k because it's driven long hours at a time. It was done 19k miles early for an oil leak I could no longer ignore. I replaced the crankshaft seal, the cam seals, and the oil pump oil hole seal. Then resealed the oil pump and oil pan with gasket maker. The gasket at the top of this photo is the oil hole seal. I'm pretty sure it was the major source of my oil leak.
9751

I mention these tasks because the timing belt components must be removed to do them. The vehicle is back in service and doing well so far. Trying to get to 300k 😁.
 
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It is really cool when people post 200k, 250k, 300k miles. Aside from regular maintenance (brakes, fluid flushes, belts, filters etc) what things have needed repair in that time? I see an oil leak happened, anything else?
 

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It is really cool when people post 200k, 250k, 300k miles. Aside from regular maintenance (brakes, fluid flushes, belts, filters etc) what things have needed repair in that time? I see an oil leak happened, anything else?
Other than being plagued with P0420 and P0430 emission codes at 150k+, and finally solving this by installing a VCM disabling device, but not after replacing both catalytic converters 😑..., I also replaced both Vtec (vvt) solenoid assemblies with spools at 201k. Had the limp mode symptom and the oil drip going into the alternator (oem alternator survived to 251k). This job required removing the intake manifold to remove the valve cover and rocket arm assemblies to remove spools.
I also had to replace both aluminum valve covers at 250k. They really should have been replaced sooner at 200k. They became warped and even corroded below a couple of spark plug tube opening and began to leak.
Nothing else major. It's been one of the best vehicles I've ever owned.
I can't say it enough. Disable the VCM. Just be sure to check your cooling system and make sure that both cooling fans come on with both the AC and/or by the temp sensor if you use this device.
 

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Thank you so much for taking time to respond. I hope I get that many miles too.
Yw
If you'd like more Honda V6 advice/talk, lots of info on the Piloteers.org website.
 

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Thanks very very much for the reference. The Gen1 Crosstour used the Pilot engine and transmission. In 2013 the Crosstour moved to the J35Y Earth Dreams engine used in the Accord. I have followed the 9th gen Accord forum a bit and the 6 cylinder engine seems to be solid. A number of people are getting 250k 300k etc on them. There do not seem to be systemic issues. Here is a link to the 9th gen Accord (13-17) FAQ listing no engine problem areas: 9th Gen FAQ: Trim Info, Paint Codes, Maintenance...
I am glad you are not seeing other non-engine issues. I encounter the water leak/rust problem that is now fixed. I have heard of the shimmy at 70mph axel issue. And some have said the front suspension bushings fail early on. And starter/ring gear/torqu converter tolerance. But I don't know of any other systemic thing to look out for. These cars just seem to go and go. I wish you continued smooth sailing with yours.
 

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Thanks very very much for the reference. The Gen1 Crosstour used the Pilot engine and transmission. In 2013 the Crosstour moved to the J35Y Earth Dreams engine used in the Accord. I have followed the 9th gen Accord forum a bit and the 6 cylinder engine seems to be solid. A number of people are getting 250k 300k etc on them. There do not seem to be systemic issues. Here is a link to the 9th gen Accord (13-17) FAQ listing no engine problem areas: 9th Gen FAQ: Trim Info, Paint Codes, Maintenance...
Ty.
I do visit the Accord forum. I guess since I'm a Pilot owner too, I find myself over there more. Seems to be an older crowd, like me. 👴
 

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Other than being plagued with P0420 and P0430 emission codes at 150k+, and finally solving this by installing a VCM disabling device, but not after replacing both catalytic converters 😑..., I also replaced both Vtec (vvt) solenoid assemblies with spools at 201k. Had the limp mode symptom and the oil drip going into the alternator (oem alternator survived to 251k). This job required removing the intake manifold to remove the valve cover and rocket arm assemblies to remove spools.
I also had to replace both aluminum valve covers at 250k. They really should have been replaced sooner at 200k. They became warped and even corroded below a couple of spark plug tube opening and began to leak.
Nothing else major. It's been one of the best vehicles I've ever owned.
I can't say it enough. Disable the VCM. Just be sure to check your cooling system and make sure that both cooling fans come on with both the AC and/or by the temp sensor if you use this device.
Do you recommend proactively disabling the VCM? I have a 2012 EX-L V6 with a little over 50K with no symptoms yet. I have read that just disabling the VCM has the unwelcome consequence of creating some heat issues. I found this device S-VCM Controller - Disable VCM / deactivate VCM and stop ECO in Honda Acura that claims to solve that problem as well. Thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Do you recommend proactively disabling the VCM? I have a 2012 EX-L V6 with a little over 50K with no symptoms yet. I have read that just disabling the VCM has the unwelcome consequence of creating some heat issues. I found this device S-VCM Controller - Disable VCM / deactivate VCM and stop ECO in Honda Acura that claims to solve that problem as well. Thoughts? Thanks.
I use S-VCM on 3 vehicles.
I know some others on Piloteers.org that use VCM Muzzler II.
The risk in my opinion is minimal. Some fear these devices because they might mask an overheating condition. That statement is partly true in that, if you did have an overheating condition, the device may make diagnosing what's causing the overheating condition more difficult since it defaults the engine temp to 165.2°F. I simply unclip the device from my temp sensor when running diagnostics. While these devices trick the ECU into a lower temp, they are supposed to also monitor the temperature and still send a signal for a check engine light if there was a problem. Possibly older versions of these devices did not have this function. I have not heard of anyone damaging their vehicle by using a VCM disabling device. My benefits outweigh my risk. My 252k mile CT is still going because of installing S-VCM. Otherwise it would have been scrapped and sold for parts 50k miles ago. If you use this device, simply do some cooling system checks from time to time. Keep the coolant clean (free of tap water). The cooling fans are activated 2 ways. By the AC and by the temperature sensor. In the morning when the vehicle is cool (Not freezing). Do the cooling fans activate when the AC compressor is on? After a long drive, when you know the engine would be warmed to its operating temperature. Do the cooling fans activate when at Idle? Disconnect the VCM disabling device and make sure the cooling fans activate at 206°F by using a scan tool.
The only other thing that might cause someone concern is if you install the device when the engine is already warmed to operating temp, it will cause the check engine light to come on. That alone has cause some to freak and stop using the device. This device will never be the cause for your vehicle to overheat.
 
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i just had my 2014 v6 CT timing belt changed at just over 100000 miles (i had a planned appt and it turned 100k
1370$ with spark plugs& water pump changed as well

but I've heard of others who ran their accords to 200K with no timing belt change ..
 

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I use S-VCM on 3 vehicles.
I know some others on Piloteers.org that use VCM Muzzler II.
The risk in my opinion is minimal. Some fear these devices because they might mask an overheating condition. That statement is partly true in that, if you did have an overheating condition, the device may make diagnosing what's causing the overheating condition more difficult since it defaults the engine temp to 165.2°F. I simply unclip the device from my temp sensor when running diagnostics. While these devices trick the ECU into a lower temp, they are supposed to also monitor the temperature and still send a signal for a check engine light if there was a problem. Possibly older versions of these devices did not have this function. I have not heard of anyone damaging their vehicle by using a VCM disabling device. My benefits outweigh my risk. My 252k mile CT is still going because of installing S-VCM. Otherwise it would have been scrapped and sold for parts 50k miles ago. If you use this device, simply do some cooling system checks from time to time. Keep the coolant clean (free of tap water). The cooling fans are activated 2 ways. By the AC and by the temperature sensor. In the morning when the vehicle is cool (Not freezing). Do the cooling fans activate when the AC compressor is on? After a long drive, when you know the engine would be warmed to its operating temperature. Do the cooling fans activate when at Idle? Disconnect the VCM disabling device and make sure the cooling fans activate at 206°F by using a scan tool.
The only other thing that might cause someone concern is if you install the device when the engine is already warmed to operating temp, it will cause the check engine light to come on. That alone has cause some to freak and stop using the device. This device will never be the cause for your vehicle to overheat.
Thanks for the feedback. Planning to go with the S-VCM. Mike
 

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i just had my 2014 v6 CT timing belt changed at just over 100000 miles (i had a planned appt and it turned 100k
1370$ with spark plugs& water pump changed as well

but I've heard of others who ran their accords to 200K with no timing belt change ..
I can't imagine going 200k without a timing belt change. Doing a family members 2014 Accord this weekend. It's at 104k miles. The water pump is stiff and the tensioner is failing. The belt has been stretched. This photo is with the tensioner still installed. The belt is loose between the 2 cams.
9762
 
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