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My mechanic is scratching his head about what is making my 2012 CT v6 4WD shudder/shake at 35-40mph and again at 70-75mph. When on the lift he cannot find any visible signs of something being wrong. But go down a side road at just about 40MPH and you can feel something is not right. As the driver you feel it in the wheel and pedals and seat. As a passenger, you sorta feel it. I think our bodies are just used to feeling stuff like these so the brain compensates. Driving with something which is prone to rattling sitting on the passenger seat (like and empty pet carrier), now doubt something is wrong.


My mechanic wants to wait and see if it gets worse so hopefully he can say ah-ha! when looking at the belly of the beast. He doesn't have to live with it every day. He also doesn't want me paying hundred to thousands of ours on a fishing expedition.



Anyone encounter anything similar.


My CT has 135,000 miles and is up to date on all of its servicings.


It does not change with engine speed.

It sorta feels like it is lugging, but forcing a kick down does not make it go away. Only speeding up or slowing down to get out of its trigger zone makes it go away.
It seems more pronounced when everything is good and warmed up.
 

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Have you tried operating in sport mode?

This will help discern if you are feeling a speed-related shudder, such as a out of balance wheel, drive shaft or something else or if you are just feeling the "normal" variance with the VTEC VCM. (I think your car is equipped with that).

As for the VTEC VCM "shudder" I've learned to live with that, although you can purchase a small device to disable it. This aspect of the car really doesn't bother me.

I'll also assume you've had your wheels/tires high-speed balanced.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
 

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As Doug67SS mentioned above, wheel balance and axle shafts have a history of causing this type of vibration. Tire weights have a habbit of falling off, so starting with a good balance would be the place to start. Have you changed wheels? What tires are currently on the car? How many miles on these tires?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi. Yes, tires and wheels were balanced and rotated. First thing my mechanic tried. Wheels are stock, tires are Michelin Premier A/S and they have about 30k on them.



I remember the sensation of going in and out of Eco. What I assume you guys are talking about when you say the VCM shudder. That happened at all speeds and I don't even notice it anymore.


This shudder is so weird. As a lifetime Manual Transmission guy, I would liken it the most to the lugging shudder one gets in a MT car and you gear is too high. The shudder is worse feeling at the speeds going up a slight incline than coasting down a slight hill at these speeds.


My mechanic has leaned toward and axle but cannot see/feel enough wear to say YES!


I almost wonder about getting the transmission drained and filled again. Like I said earlier, it is much more pronounced when the car is hot from use. I wonder if there is too much fluid making the problem appear when things are hot? It is so hard to get a real read on the dipstick with these super thin fluids. My old diesel Benz, super clear as the oils tend to be DARK and thick. These slipper modern fluids are viscous and transparent.


I love me CT and it is nearly paid off...but I have no interest in a multithousanddollar spending spree to solve this. :)
 

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A product I have on my vehicle which is called a VCM Muzzler. It causes the vehicle to run always all 6 cylinders and prevents any cut out to 4 or 3 cylinders which often cause a vibration, not to mention the stress it causes on the engine (which is why I added one to my car). Even if it doesn't fix the specific problem, it's a good thing to add anyway.
 

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Tell us more about the VCM Muzzler

I've heard of these things. And I understand that this (the VCM) was a HUGE problem with the older CTs. Mine (2015) seems to operate smoothly, unlike the old Cadillac V8-6-4 that came out in the 70's.
 

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My Story with this

I had the same symptoms with the vibration and shaking. It would also go away off throttle as well. I actually have two 2010 EX-L 2wd w/Navi Crosstours and they both just hit 70,000 miles. I was able to get 55,000 miles from the original stock Michelin tires from the factory.

The cause of my vibrations were do from both front axles being bowed. At first I started thinking, how does that happen where both axles being bowed. If it was one, I'd think maybe a pot hole or something I must have hit. However, with both being the same that ruled that out to me.

The Michelin tires I put back on it 14,000 miles after is when I started noticing the vibration beginning to develop. When I took it in to have it checked out and perform the 70,000 mile service, that's when they found the bowed axles. I ended up figuring it out with my axles. It was 2 things...the weight of the motor and being front wheel drive caused a lot of pressure on those axles.

The other main contributor is my driving style. I drive very aggressive every day. The driving and coming to a stop and then taking off very quickly is what caused mine. If you think about it...driving and coming to a complete stop, then rapid take off after that. All the weight and motion from driving like that is a lot to ask for the car to be able to handle.

I think I might upgrade and beef up my front end with higher performance parts to try and help my axles from taking the brunt force with my driving style. I could change my driving style, but what kind of fun is that!
 

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Thanks! Glad to hear someone else encounter it. At 40% on my Oil. Next change is the next time he was planning to take a stab at it again to pin point. Being a chubby Accord, that extra weight on Accord designed parts does follow your experience.
 

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This will help discern if you are feeling a speed-related shudder, such as a out of balance wheel, drive shaft or something else or if you are just feeling the "normal" variance with the VTEC VCM. (I think your car is equipped with that).

As for the VTEC VCM "shudder" I've learned to live with that, although you can purchase a small device to disable it. This aspect of the car really doesn't bother me.

I'll also assume you've had your wheels/tires high-speed balanced.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
Bought a 2010 CT 2 years ago and this happen to me. Honda dealership replaced axle shafts that were on a 2 month back order back in 2016.
 

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Just replaced both front axles. Mischief Managed! Shudder/Shake is gone. CT once again goes down the road fast and smooth!


Ended up getting mine from www.hondapartsnow.com which saved me $300 over the local dealer. They wanted $1500 for the whole job! I ended up with a total bill under $900 with the added cost of labor from a friendly neighborhood mechanic.
 

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are/were CV axles covered under original manufacturers warranty? I have an extended warranty with my lender that covers "any component covered under original manufacturers warranty" needless to say my CT is at the dealership being diagnosed, but I'm almost certain it's axles (2012 V6 4WD with 58k)
 

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yup CV axles are/were covered under og Honda warranty. mine has run out but my 3rd party extended warranty covers them. the dealership said the CV axles are on a national backorder so they are using an after-market (cheaper) part. I guess the good news here is it's covered.
 

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A product I have on my vehicle which is called a VCM Muzzler. It causes the vehicle to run always all 6 cylinders and prevents any cut out to 4 or 3 cylinders which often cause a vibration, not to mention the stress it causes on the engine (which is why I added one to my car). Even if it doesn't fix the specific problem, it's a good thing to add anyway.
 

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A product I have on my vehicle which is called a VCM Muzzler. It causes the vehicle to run always all 6 cylinders and prevents any cut out to 4 or 3 cylinders which often cause a vibration, not to mention the stress it causes on the engine (which is why I added one to my car). Even if it doesn't fix the specific problem, it's a good thing to add anyway.
There's not a great deal of info on this group about the VCMMuzzler (that I could immediately find) (lots on the Accord group)
BUT do you think it is worth the $$$ for this device, and how easy is it to adjust based on ambient temperature ?
I just underwent an CEL issue which turned out to be un-related to the VCM issue. Many $$$ later, I ask if one of these devices may prevent any other issues.
I had to change the Rear Rocker-arm switch...for heaven's sake. +++

Any info greatfu;lly received.
 

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I'm pretty sure I have the answer - same thing happened at 60K to my wife's 2010 V6 EXL 2WD and it's happening now at 120K.

After a ****-ton of head scratching the dealership found that it was the half-shaft (axle) on the passenger side that was bent. They replaced it and the problem was fixed until now (about 60K). The mechanic I have now thinks it might be just the hub, which would be about half the cost to fix. I've been so busy with work and the office is a short 3 mile drive away so I have not taken the car in for repair yet, but whenever I get around to it I'll report back.

I hope this helps. These are great cars but they have about 3-4 problems that are common and really puzzling as a long time Honda owner - Fouling of the spark plugs, bad rings, brakes that wear quickly, tail lights that burn out often, and the half-shaft issue.
 

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A product I have on my vehicle which is called a VCM Muzzler. It causes the vehicle to run always all 6 cylinders and prevents any cut out to 4 or 3 cylinders which often cause a vibration, not to mention the stress it causes on the engine (which is why I added one to my car). Even if it doesn't fix the specific problem, it's a good thing to add anyway.
Given my issues, repair bill, etc. I dug down even further $$ and ordered one of these things. Hopefully it will head-off any issues before my axles also go wrong.
 

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After a ****-ton of head scratching the dealership found that it was the half-shaft (axle) on the passenger side that was bent. They replaced it and the problem was fixed until now (about 60K). The mechanic I have now thinks it might be just the hub, which would be about half the cost to fix. I've been so busy with work and the office is a short 3 mile drive away so I have not taken the car in for repair yet, but whenever I get around to it I'll report back.

I hope this helps. These are great cars but they have about 3-4 problems that are common and really puzzling as a long time Honda owner - Fouling of the spark plugs, bad rings, brakes that wear quickly, tail lights that burn out often, and the half-shaft issue.
Thanks. I am waiting to install a VCM Muzzler which, I hope, will prevent these half-shaft issues.
 

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I know I’m a little late into this conversation but just purchased 2010 ex-l awd having the same issues you guys have discussed. Shutter @40mph then again @70 ish. Have done quit a bit of research on the issue & thanks to you guys providing your input on CVaxels that’s going to be a point of interest that I need to check on my ride..... With that said I’ve also installed a VCM/ECU Tunner II it’s slightly different from the muzzler & a newer upgraded version of the previous VCM/ECUTunnner. This has substantially reduced much of the shutter but it does still exist & ive spoke with a couplE of service guys at multiple Honda dealerships who have suggested the TOURQUE CONVERTER in the transmission as being a primary source of this problem & it becomes even more excellerated when operating temps are at their peak.... The converter plates slip from a couple of issues (temp/ wear & a reduction of ATF fluid as theses plates are designed to operate correctly when fluid is maintained to a proper level..... I personally plan to have my ATF fluid & filter changed since it hasn’t been done since I bought the CT& hope this cures the problem otherwise I’ll be looking into either CV axel replacements or TOURQUE CONVERTER..... I sure don’t acknowledge being an expert at any of this but just going off some research & advice by cert techs who I would hope are experts....
By all means if u guys have additional suggestions please share maybe we can get to the bottom of this eventually!!!!
Just one more thought regarding the VCMTunner.. It can be a preventative measure that will eventually save u thousands of $$$ down the road bc the VCM/ECU design on the 3.5l engine is garbage &Zurich will eventually find yourself replacing expensive motor mounts, scored rings from cylinder shutdown, misfire problems just all around additional headaches that you can avoid by a VCM Tunner install that cost $150 bucks... sorry for the ramble hope this info helps👍
 
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