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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a S-VCM control this weekend on my 2012 Crosstour with 240K. I noticed a immediate loss of vibration at the 20-40 mph range, hoping the same at the 75-80 range too. Did get the CEL, traction control message but both went out after about 5 starts. I could have cleared them with the Foxwell unit but wanted to see if they would clear by themselves. Hope this will help with the oil consumption issue, adding a addition quart between oil changes at 8500 mile marker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check out nail grease - he seems to know a
about these motors and there behaviors. Still a tiny bit of vibration up to 40 mph but nothing like before. High end at 70-80 seems about the same. 190 mile round trip drive 3-4 days a week. Last check was getting 22 mpg with 240 k traveling at 80 mph. Slightly down since installed but hoping to get 300-400k out of the engine, unless something big fails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you so much for this. Before I heard about these, I replaced a half shaft and it was smooth as silk. After a year, though, the vibes are creeping back. Just cracked 100k and hoping for 200 plus.
I still may replace left and right haft shafts too this spring.
 

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At least you'll know you're starting with new gear, and that they shouldn't warp again.
I still may replace left and right haft shafts too this spring.
Oh, and just as an aside, Honda wanted $1300 to replace left and right axles, knowing they'd just bend again. I got the part for about a hundred bucks and took me a little over an hour.
 

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I believe the SVCM cleaned up the flutter/vibration at 20 to 30 MPH mark but to get rid of the 70-75 vibration I ended up having to replace both front axles and changed the front diff fluid. Enjoying the smooth ride now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I believe the SVCM cleaned up the flutter/vibration at 20 to 30 MPH mark but to get rid of the 70-75 vibration I ended up having to replace both front axles and changed the front diff fluid. Enjoying the smooth ride now.
Changed out left and right axles with after market [ OEM RT has nation wide shortage]. Test drive after was great. No vibration at all now - low end or higher end. 241K. Now to deal with that cylinder head VTEC solenoid valve leak that just started. I drive it almost 500-1000 miles a week so keep after the little things before the become big ones
 

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Honda wanted $1300 to replace left and right axles, knowing they'd just bend again.
What causes the half-axles to bend? Is it just the OEM half-axles that bend or aftermarket as well?

I got the part for about a hundred bucks and took me a little over an hour.
Where did you get the parts from? Any special tools or skills required?

Changed out left and right axles with after market [ OEM RT has nation wide shortage]. Test drive after was great. No vibration at all now - low end or higher end.
Where did you purchase the aftermarket half-axles from? Is it always the front half-axles that cause the vibration?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What causes the half-axles to bend? Is it just the OEM half-axles that bend or aftermarket as well?
There was a great article in the forum that described what happens when the v6 motor shuts some of the back cylinder down and what Honda did to smooth out the vibrations from high tech engine mounts to white noise - I believe the article was from the accord forum but published here.


Where did you get the parts from? Any special tools or skills required?
I purchased the aftermarket axle from Car Quest/ Advanced Auto parts - you will need a 3/4 drive 36mm socket and breaker bar - the axle nuts have a 240ftlb torque so tougher come off then going on for sure, ball joint separator, 250 torque wrench and Transmission fluid when you pull off the driver side axle. It’s not a hard job but if you haven’t done one there are several you tube videos out there.


Where did you purchase the aftermarket half-axles from? Is it always the front half-axles that cause the vibration?
see above for where I got them. 150.00 each VS over 300.00 for OEM.
 

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Okay, sounds like it's always the front half-axles that cause the vibration because that's where the engine is. Does this mean the rear half-axles don't suffer from this same issue?

I've already installed S-VCM. If I replace the front half-axles, will the 70 mph vibrations be permanently remediated or will the axles bend again and vibrations return?

Thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay, sounds like it's always the front half-axles that cause the vibration because that's where the engine is. Does this mean the rear half-axles don't suffer from this same issue?

I've already installed S-VCM. If I replace the front half-axles, will the 70 mph vibrations be permanently remediated or will the axles bend again and vibrations return?

The most inexpensive checks would be to have your tires rebalanced or check you don’t have a bad tire or bent/ deformed wheel .

Thx
Check this article out : The VCM Megathread - what is VCM, does my vehicle have it, what's so bad about it, and morehttps://www.driveaccord.net/threads/vcm-megathread-what-is-vcm-does-my-accord-have-it-whats-so-bad-about-it-and-more.559190
 

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Okay, sounds like it's always the front half-axles that cause the vibration because that's where the engine is. Does this mean the rear half-axles don't suffer from this same issue?

I've already installed S-VCM. If I replace the front half-axles, will the 70 mph vibrations be permanently remediated or will the axles bend again and vibrations return?

Thx
It's gonna require Both Trans Mounts, at least, to be fully addressed. We all know VCM causes excessive Drivetrain Vibration, but it also wears down Mounts like mfr. The Axles only have room to bend of they are allowed to flex. From my experience owning (2) '10 CTs, the Trans Mount are gone if the Axles are gone. Sometimes, it can wear out the Front/Rear Engine Mounts, the Far Passenger Engine Mount is usually fine. I've caught & addressed the issue between 150-200k Miles both times, so I can't say for sure it doesn't travel down the Prop, but I've never experienced that, personally.

For the VTEC Actuator, you're honestly better off replacing the whole $100-$150 unit. I've tried buying the gaskets to do an R&R, and it only held for a matter of weeks. It leaks down onto the Alternator, kills it, and then that dead Alt kills your battery, too. My advice is take it to a Shop & have them do the work; it's a PITA that's worth paying for the warranty on, imo.
 
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