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My 2012 Crosstour has 89k. I took it in for the timing belt service and an oil change and to have them look at a new whining noise. Next thing I know, I get a $3,500 estimate from my local Honda Dealership! Are these prices reasonable? Seems excessive high to me!
Timing Belt & Water pump $1,220
Spark Plugs $ $389
Alternator (the whining) $852
Blower motor $ 192
Front Pads & cut rotors $295
Rear pads & new rotors $489
Alignment $89
Oil Change $45
 

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Yes and no. No new antifreeze? Here are a few things you can do to lower the price.
1) Negotiate with the honda dealer. Speak only with the service manager and offer him $3000. Tell him otherwise, you will need to go to another garage.
2) Check on their website as many Honda dealers will put a 10% or 15% off parts and labor coupon on their website.
3) Ask to get a rebuilt or aftermarket alternator, which will cut the alternator price in half.
4) Take or email their estimate to another Honda dealer in town. See what they can do to beat the price. They likely will.
5) Check with an independent garage, which should come in around $2500 or less. But you won't be getting Honda OEM parts.

It's unknown to me how bad your brakes are. If they are low, but still safe, you can let the brakes go which will save you about $800 on this repair. But don't let them go too long!!
Same with the alignment. Are your tires new? Worn down? You likely can wait on the alignment.
I assume your blower motor was either noisy or not working? Perhaps you can let that wait too?
 

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Without knowing your local or area I'm fairly confident that you can find a Honda-oriented secondary shop that will do this work competently and for far less.
 

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As someone who DIYs. Yes, your bill is excessive. But I must remember that not everyone is inclined to turn a wrench. The $389 spark plug bill gets me the most. You can buy our exact OEM plugs on RockAuto for $52.80.
9651
If you have and confidence to turn a wrench, watch a Youtube video, buy the tools you need and save big time.

Under no circumstances would I ever have a rotor turned. If it's warped, it will be prone to warp more. Replace if neccesary. Are you having braking issues? Look at your pads, do you really need them replaced yet? Fronts wear faster than the back. Possibly do fronts for now and save the back for another time.
Make sure all of the components of the Timing Belt job are replaced.
Belt
Tensioner
Tensioner Bearing
Idler pulley
Water Pump
Complete coolant drain and fill
OEM Honda alternator is expensive. Is it a remanufactured replacement? This is a part that can be bought at an auto parts store with a lifetime guarantee, for probably a 1/3 of the price your being quoted. Can you can install yourself or know someone.
 
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I'm a DIY person, too. The estimates that were posted almost made me cry. The alternator is a 1hr job at most. I have a lift so remounting the belt to the crank pulley from underneath is easy. A reman alternator is $150±. OEM brake pads are $85± online. That's another 1hr job. You need an impact screwdriver to pull the screws to get the rotors off but that's the only special tool needed. You can get all four rotors by Centric for $130±.

The alignment is a fair price and the oil change is market.
 

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I'm a DIY person, too. The estimates that were posted almost made me cry. The alternator is a 1hr job at most. I have a lift so remounting the belt to the crank pulley from underneath is easy. A reman alternator is $150±. OEM brake pads are $85± online. That's another 1hr job. You need an impact screwdriver to pull the screws to get the rotors off but that's the only special tool needed. You can get all four rotors by Centric for $130±.

The alignment is a fair price and the oil change is market.
The estimate for the timing belt water pump job is not the best but what most are paying at the dealership unless you can take advantage of a advertised special. I listed all the parts because some have stated that they were charged extra for the tensioner or they didn't replace the tensioner. Would you consider DIYing the Timing Belt too?
 

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I actually don’t think that’s too bad of a price. I just paid $1,350 for my timing belt, water pump and coolant service. I’m in the Midwest. Haven’t had to do brakes yet since I've owned the car but I’d probably expect to pay that much especially if the rotors we’re getting replaced too. I think once you get everything done that you mentioned your car will be pretty much maintenance free till 200k aside of tire rotations and oil changes. I’d probably bite the bullet and get it done especially if your planning on keeping it another 100k or so.
 

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I actually don’t think that’s too bad of a price. I just paid $1,350 for my timing belt, water pump and coolant service. I’m in the Midwest. Haven’t had to do brakes yet since I've owned the car but I’d probably expect to pay that much especially if the rotors we’re getting replaced too. I think once you get everything done that you mentioned your car will be pretty much maintenance free till 200k aside of tire rotations and oil changes. I’d probably bite the bullet and get it done especially if your planning on keeping it another 100k or so.
Yes, I agree. There are many people who should not do any work on their own cars, even when it looks so simple from a YouTube video. As Hals_35 mentioned above, $1350 is not an unreasonable price for the Timing belt - water pump service. I would say that is pretty much the "Normal" price at dealerships for OEM parts. If you want to chance it at an independent shop with non-oem parts, you might get it done for $950. Personally, I would take it to Honda. Not worth the risk for an independent shop to screw something up.
 

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Yes, I agree. There are many people who should not do any work on their own cars, even when it looks so simple from a YouTube video. As Hals_35 mentioned above, $1350 is not an unreasonable price for the Timing belt - water pump service. I would say that is pretty much the "Normal" price at dealerships for OEM parts. If you want to chance it at an independent shop with non-oem parts, you might get it done for $950. Personally, I would take it to Honda. Not worth the risk for an independent shop to screw something up.
I'd have no problem letting a trusted independent shop do a Timing Belt Water Pump job on my vehicle using the Aisin kit. I've been using Aisin kits for 20+ years on a variety of make and model vehicles. Not one has ever faild me. The kit is put together with mostly OEM parts.
 
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I'd have no problem letting a trusted independent shop do a Timing Belt Water Pump job on my vehicle using the Aisin kit. I've been using Aisin kits for 20+ years on a variety of make and model vehicles. Not one has ever faild me. The kit is put together with mostly OEM parts.
I would love to see this for the 2.4L motor.
 

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If you're not afraid of turning a few wrenches yourself, you can go to Advance Auto Parts (web site or your local brick&mortar) and get their lifetime brake pads and a set of rotors. You can do all 4 corners for less than what they want to do the front end alone, and you can do the job yourself in a couple hours. This will save you at least $400 AND your new pads will have a lifetime guarantee. BTW, with today's brake rotors......I would never consider cutting them, replace them.

$389 for 4, maybe 6 spark plugs?????? ARE YOU FFFFing KIDDING ME????? ARE THEY SOLID SILVER????? Do them yourself with plugs from any parts store for less than $50 if you go with good quality plugs. If you replace the plug wires with a set of good quality wires, you might be in it for about $100 or so, and the entire job will take you less than an hour.

$852 for an OEM alternator???? HELL NO!!!!!!!!!!! Again........get a high quality aftermarket, possibly with a lifetime warranty for less than $250, and do it yourself, AGAIN, in less than an hour.

Blower motor, and alignment are fair prices The timing belt and water pump isn't too bad, but have them also replace the VTC actuator and valve while they're doing the timing belt......it's all right there and part of the timing anyway. This saves you the labor costs of having them tear the front end of the motor apart again in another 10K to 15K miles. You might be able to negotiate that price a bit too as mentioned earlier.

The oil change seems a bit high. You can do that yourself for about half of what they want.......even if you use Honda oil, BTW, I ONLY use Honda fluids in mine, and I usually change them myself, unless the weather isn't what I am comfortable working in. I recently did a triple trans fluid change on my car, basically changing all the fluid WITHOUT doing a dangerous power flush. I did that for about $75. What you do there is a regular fluid change, drive the car to normal operating temp, and repeat 2 more times. By the time you're finished, you will have replaced at least 95% of the fluid in the transmission.

Here is the video I used for instruction on the trans service.
This guy has a bunch more videos of working on a 8th Gen Accord, which is mechanically the same as a Crosstour. This guy can save you a bunch of money by learning how to service your car yourself.

Here is another guy on YouTube who can show you how to save a bunch more money. The only things I would do differently than this guy, is to use ONLY Honda fluids, and remove the splash guard before servicing.

Both of these YouTubers have a lot of videos working on the 8th Gen Accords
 

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Your prices made me cringe too! And stealerships wonder why folks run the other way. As a former repair shop owner myself, I say that they have to make a little bit DANG, let’s take sexual assault off the table. I use a local shop that only works on Honda’s and the guy is extremely fair on price. I’m getting to change plugs on mine, I got them off Rockauto for $60-ish.. I put cross drilled rotors and Wagner Powerstop brake pads on and serviced my rear diff... I don’t think I had $350 in everything! The local shop wants $700 to replace the T-belt and water pump with Honda OEM... good luck on your repair.. just know you have options.
 

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The timing parts cost seems OK to me.

I have had the timing and brakes done at the dealer on my 2011 Ex. The timing was done when my engine was re-ringed under "Honda Care" warranty and I only had to pay for the parts which was ~$1200 for belt, water pump, and idler pulleys.

Spark plugs and alternator (parts only?) seem WAY high.
 

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If you're not afraid of turning a few wrenches yourself, you can go to Advance Auto Parts (web site or your local brick&mortar) and get their lifetime brake pads and a set of rotors. You can do all 4 corners for less than what they want to do the front end alone, and you can do the job yourself in a couple hours. This will save you at least $400 AND your new pads will have a lifetime guarantee. BTW, with today's brake rotors......I would never consider cutting them, replace them.

$389 for 4, maybe 6 spark plugs?????? ARE YOU FFFFing KIDDING ME????? ARE THEY SOLID SILVER????? Do them yourself with plugs from any parts store for less than $50 if you go with good quality plugs. If you replace the plug wires with a set of good quality wires, you might be in it for about $100 or so, and the entire job will take you less than an hour.

$852 for an OEM alternator???? HELL NO!!!!!!!!!!! Again........get a high quality aftermarket, possibly with a lifetime warranty for less than $250, and do it yourself, AGAIN, in less than an hour.

Blower motor, and alignment are fair prices The timing belt and water pump isn't too bad, but have them also replace the VTC actuator and valve while they're doing the timing belt......it's all right there and part of the timing anyway. This saves you the labor costs of having them tear the front end of the motor apart again in another 10K to 15K miles. You might be able to negotiate that price a bit too as mentioned earlier.

The oil change seems a bit high. You can do that yourself for about half of what they want.......even if you use Honda oil, BTW, I ONLY use Honda fluids in mine, and I usually change them myself, unless the weather isn't what I am comfortable working in. I recently did a triple trans fluid change on my car, basically changing all the fluid WITHOUT doing a dangerous power flush. I did that for about $75. What you do there is a regular fluid change, drive the car to normal operating temp, and repeat 2 more times. By the time you're finished, you will have replaced at least 95% of the fluid in the transmission.

Here is the video I used for instruction on the trans service.
This guy has a bunch more videos of working on a 8th Gen Accord, which is mechanically the same as a Crosstour. This guy can save you a bunch of money by learning how to service your car yourself.

Here is another guy on YouTube who can show you how to save a bunch more money. The only things I would do differently than this guy, is to use ONLY Honda fluids, and remove the splash guard before servicing.

Both of these YouTubers have a lot of videos working on the 8th Gen Accords
My 5-speeds loves Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I'd never go back to DW-1 that isn't full synthetic. That's a huge savings on ATF right there ($18 per gallon WalMart).
The V-6 is prone to some serious problems because of the VCM operation. One being the loss of oil that contributes to the plague of P0420 and P0430 codes that can ultimately lead to the need for Cat replacement if not corrected. To resolve this and actually cure this problem when a new air filter, MAF and plugs doesn't, there are 3 things that will turn this code off for good. 1st and foremost is to disable the VCM (S-VCM). Some of our oil loss is from burnt oil and it's vapors having to be digested by the Cats. Many of us know about the thick black suet on our chrome tail pipes. 2nd, having to swallow my pride and leave my favorite oil Mobil 1 for another oil proven to have less evaporation. Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil ($21 Walmart).
3rd, a no brainer if you do not live in sub freezing temperatures is to change your oil viscosity to 5w30. Quite simply 5w30 does not evaporate as easily as 0w20 and it better protects your engine. I'm currently 12k miles into these changes without my P0420 and P0430 codes reoccurring.
 

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"1st and foremost is to disable the VCM (S-VCM). "

Except that part is made SO CHEAPLY it is unreliable.

That could have been a good product, but the assembly is potted and has wires coming directly out of the potting with no strain relief. These are stranded wires with maybe 6 strands to make about a 22 gauge (or less) wire with no strain relief at all. These wires are far too flimsy for an automotive application. Pity since at a cost of $95 the maker could have spent less than a penny for stouter wires.
 

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"1st and foremost is to disable the VCM (S-VCM). "

Except that part is made SO CHEAPLY it is unreliable.

That could have been a good product, but the assembly is potted and has wires coming directly out of the potting with no strain relief. These are stranded wires with maybe 6 strands to make about a 22 gauge (or less) wire with no strain relief at all. These wires are far too flimsy for an automotive application. Pity since at a cost of $95 the maker could have spent less than a penny for stouter wires.
I agreed. I own 3, I did repair one. It's working.
 

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My 5-speeds loves Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I'd never go back to DW-1 that isn't full synthetic. That's a huge savings on ATF right there ($18 per gallon WalMart).
The V-6 is prone to some serious problems because of the VCM operation. One being the loss of oil that contributes to the plague of P0420 and P0430 codes that can ultimately lead to the need for Cat replacement if not corrected. To resolve this and actually cure this problem when a new air filter, MAF and plugs doesn't, there are 3 things that will turn this code off for good. 1st and foremost is to disable the VCM (S-VCM). Some of our oil loss is from burnt oil and it's vapors having to be digested by the Cats. Many of us know about the thick black suet on our chrome tail pipes. 2nd, having to swallow my pride and leave my favorite oil Mobil 1 for another oil proven to have less evaporation. Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil ($21 Walmart).
3rd, a no brainer if you do not live in sub freezing temperatures is to change your oil viscosity to 5w30. Quite simply 5w30 does not evaporate as easily as 0w20 and it better protects your engine. I'm currently 12k miles into these changes without my P0420 and P0430 codes reoccurring.

I have a 2.4L with an automatic transmission, so the DW1 has been fine for me so far. I am getting close to 100K miles, so maybe a full synthetic ATF might be better for a high mileage car??? As far as the oil goes, I live in the Chicago area, Summers and Winters can both be occasionally extreme temps, not necessarily brutal. In the Summer (today for example) we do occasionally flirt with 100 degree F days, and in the Winter we occasionally dip below 0 degrees F. 5W30 is all I ever use in my Crosstour, and, I have no problems with burning any oil. For my old American Classics (72 Grand Prix and a 61 Chevy Apache pickup), I only use Valvoline products, so I am familiar with them.
 

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I have a 2.4L with an automatic transmission, so the DW1 has been fine for me so far. I am getting close to 100K miles, so maybe a full synthetic ATF might be better for a high mileage car??? As far as the oil goes, I live in the Chicago area, Summers and Winters can both be occasionally extreme temps, not necessarily brutal. In the Summer (today for example) we do occasionally flirt with 100 degree F days, and in the Winter we occasionally dip below 0 degrees F. 5W30 is all I ever use in my Crosstour, and, I have no problems with burning any oil. For my old American Classics (72 Grand Prix and a 61 Chevy Apache pickup), I only use Valvoline products, so I am familiar with them.
Yes, your transmission will benifit from the thinner Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I works better in the winter and your transmission will operate at a cooler temperature in the summer.
👍 5w30 is serving you well. You may look for an oil that has less evaporation, should you ever have an issue with catalytic converter codes, P0420 and P0430.
 
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The estimate for the timing belt water pump job is not the best but what most are paying at the dealership unless you can take advantage of a advertised special. I listed all the parts because some have stated that they were charged extra for the tensioner or they didn't replace the tensioner. Would you consider DIYing the Timing Belt too?
I would but then I've been working on my own cars since 1957 and have built up a few very high performance track cars. At my age, I may not do it but would take it to one of three local shops that have a ton of Honda experience.
 
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