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If you are married, don't forget to make sure your wife is actually in the car before you tear out of the parking lot in excitement. Other than that (and I have no idea if you have done your deal yet or not):

  • Always be prepared to walk away. You don't need this car, you want it.
  • Never, ever, under any circumstances, pay for "rustproofing." Your vehicle is rustproof already, and anything the dealer might have done to it will only introduce rust.
  • Never, ever, under any circumstances, pay for fabric protection or leather treatment.
  • Argue the "doc" fee. Remember that a $400 doc fee means that they are taking $400 dollars from you to fill out your paperwork via a computer. I always tell dealers that I want to meet the person that makes $400 per hour to use a computer to fill out paperwork.
  • Remember that even if you were to strike a deal of a lifetime and pay nothing over invoice (which isn't likely to happen), the dealer is still going to make money. There is a "dealer holdback" where the manufacturer will pay the dealer for the sale (a bit more complicated than that, but that's the basic principle), and there are shared interest rates where the lender will give the dealer a portion of the financing.
  • Walk around the car and look at everything closely. Don't let your excitement get in the way of seeing that dent or scratch or broken piece. Look closely. Make them fix anything that's wrong or be prepared to walk away.
  • Look over your paperwork three and four times. Don't assume that dealers won't sneak in additional fees if they can because they hope you won't notice.
  • Don't forget that just because you come to a deal with the salesperson, that doesn't mean you are done. You still have to battle with finance. Don't let your guard down or finance will eat you alive.
 

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Congrads Kobayashi, share your car with us when you get home. Ian said it best, he must either work for a bank or a car dealership, good job.
Richard
 

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Congrads Kobayashi, share your car with us when you get home. Ian said it best, he must either work for a bank or a car dealership, good job.
Richard
Ian is actually the devil. Yeah...
 

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Ian said it best, he must either work for a bank or a car dealership, good job.
The family business offers consulting services for the insurance industry. In a nutshell, we develop and maintain offshore reinsurance companies for the automotive industry. As a result, I have met more than my share of dealer/owners and have learned quite a bit about the car sales.

Is everyone still awake? Hello?

Ian is actually the devil. Yeah...
Er... not the devil. Or am I? Bwa ha ha ha ha...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lol..
-Wife drove me there...left in her own car...:)
i had all the numbers before i walked in to finalize the deal
I had already looked up the "Rust proof offer"..yeesh...guy barely touched the subject
Found a scratched headlight case that is getting replaced..
Thanks...


If you are married, don't forget to make sure your wife is actually in the car before you tear out of the parking lot in excitement. Other than that (and I have no idea if you have done your deal yet or not):

  • Always be prepared to walk away. You don't need this car, you want it.
  • Never, ever, under any circumstances, pay for "rustproofing." Your vehicle is rustproof already, and anything the dealer might have done to it will only introduce rust.
  • Never, ever, under any circumstances, pay for fabric protection or leather treatment.
  • Argue the "doc" fee. Remember that a $400 doc fee means that they are taking $400 dollars from you to fill out your paperwork via a computer. I always tell dealers that I want to meet the person that makes $400 per hour to use a computer to fill out paperwork.
  • Remember that even if you were to strike a deal of a lifetime and pay nothing over invoice (which isn't likely to happen), the dealer is still going to make money. There is a "dealer holdback" where the manufacturer will pay the dealer for the sale (a bit more complicated than that, but that's the basic principle), and there are shared interest rates where the lender will give the dealer a portion of the financing.
  • Walk around the car and look at everything closely. Don't let your excitement get in the way of seeing that dent or scratch or broken piece. Look closely. Make them fix anything that's wrong or be prepared to walk away.
  • Look over your paperwork three and four times. Don't assume that dealers won't sneak in additional fees if they can because they hope you won't notice.
  • Don't forget that just because you come to a deal with the salesperson, that doesn't mean you are done. You still have to battle with finance. Don't let your guard down or finance will eat you alive.
 

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Congrats Kobayashi, here's a tidbit for after the sale. They will call you between once and five times asking if everything is ok and to please give them outstanding marks when Honda sends a customer comment car. Be bold and tell them something that you want. I mean from a free tank of gas to some assessory you wanted but didn't get.

I tell them outright that I will trash them, my final piece of negotiation. It's nice to be old and cranky. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Revisiting my old thread..I traded my 2010 in and picked up a new 2014 ex-l AWD (metallic silver) last week...
 

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Revisiting my old thread..I traded my 2010 in and picked up a new 2014 ex-l AWD (metallic silver) last week...
Congrats on the upgrade! Pics! :D
 

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Congrats! Have fun!
 

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If you are married, don't forget to make sure your wife is actually in the car before you tear out of the parking lot in excitement. Other than that (and I have no idea if you have done your deal yet or not):

  • Always be prepared to walk away. You don't need this car, you want it.
  • Never, ever, under any circumstances, pay for "rustproofing." Your vehicle is rustproof already, and anything the dealer might have done to it will only introduce rust.
  • Never, ever, under any circumstances, pay for fabric protection or leather treatment.
  • Argue the "doc" fee. Remember that a $400 doc fee means that they are taking $400 dollars from you to fill out your paperwork via a computer. I always tell dealers that I want to meet the person that makes $400 per hour to use a computer to fill out paperwork.
  • Remember that even if you were to strike a deal of a lifetime and pay nothing over invoice (which isn't likely to happen), the dealer is still going to make money. There is a "dealer holdback" where the manufacturer will pay the dealer for the sale (a bit more complicated than that, but that's the basic principle), and there are shared interest rates where the lender will give the dealer a portion of the financing.
  • Walk around the car and look at everything closely. Don't let your excitement get in the way of seeing that dent or scratch or broken piece. Look closely. Make them fix anything that's wrong or be prepared to walk away.
  • Look over your paperwork three and four times. Don't assume that dealers won't sneak in additional fees if they can because they hope you won't notice.
  • Don't forget that just because you come to a deal with the salesperson, that doesn't mean you are done. You still have to battle with finance. Don't let your guard down or finance will eat you alive.
I know I'm late to this discussion, but the point about financing rang pretty true. I bought our CT at the dealership that we've been buying Hondas from for years. I was a little surprised when they screwed the financing up. First, they REALLY pushed using a bank when I insisted all along that I wanted to use our credit union. Then they got the terms wrong from the credit union, and I had to backtrack with them to get things fixed. I'd say these were just normal mistakes, but I don't believe them pushing the bank was a mistake at all. There must have been some kind of kickback program in place for them to do that. It did not make me a happy camper.

But the CT did. What a car.
 

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Interesting to hear about different experiences with dealers. I did most of my bargaining on the internet, so I had both a trade in price and the new car price when I arrived, contingent on my trade being what I had represented it to be. The CT was a leftover EXL with FWD and the V6. They had it listed for a bit over 36 thou due to about 2 thou in add ons to the list price after it came to the dealer. They gave me 14,300 for my 2012 accord (bottom of the line, but only 17 thou miles) and sold the CT for 28 thou. They charged for the paper work but when I noted that in an add that it was waved, the funds were returned. I thought that this was a pretty good deal. I love the car.
 

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This guy ifonline had me rolling both hilarious and informative, thanks for that sir.

I've been researching various cars all across the internet and I use car chat forums as a major resource in addition to professional reviews and customer complaint sites. I have to say, the Crosstour owners seem like a heady bunch in general, not counting myself.
 
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