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Hi all,

As usual with the Crosstour's, I have a hard time googling any help. My car threw these codes the other day and I would like some insight as to what to do next.

2011 4WD Navi here.

When COVID hit, I started working from home - so the car sat in the garage from March 16, to August 6. I started it and went around the block a handful of times. Once it was back on the road, I drove it around more of course and the other day the check engine light came on with the two codes P0498 and P2422 (EVAP canister vent shut valve stuck closed malfunction). The car did not act any different then normal, so I didn't think too much of it. It was a chore to find the canister above the rear drive case. I pulled the two hoses from the filter box, and checked them for spider webs and dirt/debris to no avail. They were both clear.

My cheapo code reader won't even erase the codes. Any ideas on this? Or am I replacing the whole canister? (roughly $500 CDN they advised at my local Honda)

Thanks in advance!
 

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P0498
  • Faulty EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve
  • EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve harness is open or shorted
  • EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve circuit poor electrical connection
Possibly this part...
 

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Hi all,

As usual with the Crosstour's, I have a hard time googling any help. My car threw these codes the other day and I would like some insight as to what to do next.

2011 4WD Navi here.

When COVID hit, I started working from home - so the car sat in the garage from March 16, to August 6. I started it and went around the block a handful of times. Once it was back on the road, I drove it around more of course and the other day the check engine light came on with the two codes P0498 and P2422 (EVAP canister vent shut valve stuck closed malfunction). The car did not act any different then normal, so I didn't think too much of it. It was a chore to find the canister above the rear drive case. I pulled the two hoses from the filter box, and checked them for spider webs and dirt/debris to no avail. They were both clear.

My cheapo code reader won't even erase the codes. Any ideas on this? Or am I replacing the whole canister? (roughly $500 CDN they advised at my local Honda)

Thanks in advance!
 

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My mechanic said the same thing. He was wrong. Turned out to a spyder nest in the air intake screen which plugs into the frame. The simple test for this is to remove the hose from the canister filter to the frame (3/4 inch hose about a foot long). The $12 plastic part is fairly easy to replace (you'll never get it cleaned out and it's likely to break during removal).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My mechanic said the same thing. He was wrong. Turned out to a spyder nest in the air intake screen which plugs into the frame. The simple test for this is to remove the hose from the canister filter to the frame (3/4 inch hose about a foot long). The $12 plastic part is fairly easy to replace (you'll never get it cleaned out and it's likely to break during removal).
So I took off both hoses from the filter and found nothing in the hoses themselves. Are you saying the one that goes right up to the frame (the one at the filter, not the one that goes back across to the other side) is the one I should be looking to replace the part from? Can you tell me if that part is on this diagram? Is it part 11?



I received the part @NailGrease suggested and was going to try swapping it out - but if the problem could be the smaller part, I might try that first so I can send it back if need be. It was $85 Canadian Rupees.
 

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Yes. Part 11 is the culprit. I was able to make a temporary fix by blasting it with compressed air but it eventually failed again. As it was a nest, it was much thicker than a regular web. If you are having the same problem, you might be able to break up the web by a stick/wire/tie-wrap into the hole where the hose attaches. It's only a couple of inches in length so it might be possible to clean this way. As I didn't have this knowledge then, I ended up replacing the part. If you disconnect part 11 from the hose and the problem goes away, you know what your dealing with. Same applies to part 8 to eliminate the canister air filter. If the problem still remains, then the previous suggestions apply.
 
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