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My mechanic inspected our CT but couldn't find any visible damage to the CV axle shafts. Is the shake asymptomatic or will continuing to drive the car as is cause greater issues?
If a mechanic says it's not the CV axles then possibly the tires need rebalancing. I wouldn't want to drive long term with a vibration.
 

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The tires are fine.

I assume it's possible that damage to the CV axles could cause the vibration but not be visible to the naked eye.


Why not?
Vehicle preservation and safety.
How is it tires are dismissed as the source? Were they rebalanced?
 

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Hello!
First of all I bought this car on May 26, 2021. I found out about the ECO problems, did some research, and bought the S-VCM. I installed it correctly.
Carfax showed that there was a recent tire alignment and wheel balance, so I don't believe the problem lies there. Brand new tires btw.

ECO light came off and everything was fine at low speed; no shudders/shakes going up to like 50 mph on city roads.

I get on the Highway and it does fine accelerating to speed limit (70) I'll stay at same speed for a bit, but when I start to slowly accelerate the engine shakes. I'm lightly pressing on pedal to go up 5 to 7mph and along the way to the new cruising speed it will just shake until I stop adding gas. ECO light still doesn't come on. Its as if it went to ECO mode but not showing the light. Weird.
I figured S-VCM will work at all times. Seems to work at the low speed acceleration.
Can't be bad engine mount since it would shake all the time or most of time.
I'm thinking spark plug change might work. Idk when it was last done. If I get same problem after that then I'm at a lost.
Could it be some spark plugs going bad? I don't have check engine light on.

The car drives quiet and smooth until highspeed acceleration whether I kinda floor it or slowly accelerate

Oh and this is a V6 FWD

Edit: As of June 30, 2021 the New CV Axle shaft fixed the problem.
Not true.- just had the Rack and Pinion assembly replaced. The Front motor mount was failed. The hydraulic dampening was shot. A huge improvement in the shudder - Still there a tiny bit but much better. Also have S-VCM installed too. The car has almost 300K on it so take that in account too. So much info on this subject
 

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It does sound like it may be down a cylinder. Is the check engine light on? If so, it needs to be scanned for trouble codes. If you don't have a scanner, most auto parts stores will scan for free.
If the green eco light remains off all the time, the VCM is deactivated. Has the ATF been changed? If not, I recommend a 3 x drain and fill using Valvoline MaxLife ATF. This can be purchased at Wal-Mart for around $18 a gallon. Do one D&F and drive until engine and transmission is warmed to operating temperature, do the 2nd. After 100-200 miles + I'd do a 3rd. The transmission will be about 80% fresh fluid.
Other things I do to keep a smooth running Honda V6 engine....,
  • VCM disabled ✔
  • Air filter New/Clean, installed correctly
  • Air intake tube leak free, clamps tight
  • Clean the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), unplug, remove, Using CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner, spray a few short bursts directly into the visible electrodes to knock the dust off, let dry thoroughly before re-installing.
  • Spark plugs New/Clean, NGK Laser Iridiums (OEM) or Ruthenium HX. (These engines are known to misfires on other brands)
  • Spark plug tubes oil free, If oil is present, replace valve cover gaskets grommets and spark plug tube seals, (I'd replace the plenum/intake gasket when doing this job)
  • Coils tested, oil free, replace any oil soaked boots
  • Replace PCV
  • Replace EGR valve (last resort, high milage with unexplained rough idle
  • Use 0w20 full synthetic oil, no semi blends or extended performance oil
  • Use Top Tier 87 octane fuel or use injector cleaner regularly
  • If primarily driven in the city, take the vehicle on some long highway speed drives
No no no absolutely not, use only Honda dw-1 atf
 

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No no no absolutely not, use only Honda dw-1 atf
This subject is talked about extensively on Piloteers.org . Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF is proving superior in extending the life of both Honda 5 and 6 speed transmissions. My 306k mile 5 speed Crosstour was converted to Valvoline MaxLife at 101k miles and have never had a single transmission issue.
 

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This subject is talked about extensively on Piloteers.org . Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF is proving superior in extending the life of both Honda 5 and 6 speed transmissions. My 306k mile 5 speed Crosstour was converted to Valvoline MaxLife at 101k miles and have never had a single transmission issue.
Where is this shown? Can't say I'd want to try it just because in my new crosstour but
 

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Where is this shown? Can't say I'd want to try it just because in my new crosstour but
 

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A Poll of what people use is meaningless. my crosstour shifts so smooth quick and quiet. my accord has some napa fluid from my mechanic and you can feel the shift between reverse and drive
The purpose of the poll is to prove that many are satisfied and are safely using Valvoline MaxLife ATF as an alternative to DW-1. No Fears. There have been many cases of where DW-1 has trouble in extreme conditions (heat, towing, heavy loads, etc) and failed to protect transmissions through the 30k mile interval (dark fluid). Others who live in very cold climates having shifting issues on DW-1.
 
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