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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have 2012 Honda Crosstour and it came with the 18 inch wheels. I was thinking about buying new wheels, but felt more that I just didn’t like the color of my wheels and would try painting the wheels first. Here is a picture of the factory wheel. I had painted the center caps the month prior.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Prep the wheels. I took my CT to the local DIY car wash and used their heavy brush on the wheels. I wanted to make sure all dirt and wax was removed. There are products to remove the wax, but I felt just a good cleaning was all that was needed due to the car only being 3 months old. I used Windex to clean any remaining residue off the wheels 30 minutes prior to painting.

I am using Duplicolor Shadow spray paint. This is a two can system that creates the look of black chrome on metal or chrome surfaces. The system includes a translucent black base coat that casts a dark shadow effect. The clear coat top coat is for added gloss, depth, and protection from the elements. Shadow is resistant to brake dust, road abrasion, chipping, and fading making it ideal for wheels, bumpers, trim accessories, and under hood items. I basically wanted something that would match my black car. Duplicolor Shadow. The two can kit costs about $18. Even though the kit states that these two cans are enough for all 4 wheels, I was looking for more depth and required a total of 3 kits to cover all 4 wheels. (Total cost $54). You can find this paint on the Internet, Advance Auto Parts, or O'Reilly's Auto Parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I then removed all the air from the tires. This allowed me to use a putty knife to push paper between the wheel and tire as a means to ‘mask off’ the tire. This method is much easier than masking tape that can either leave a gummy residue or will not hold.

NOTE: If your tires have Nitrogen in them make sure to deflate them outside. Nitrogen displaces Oxygen and can fill your lungs quickly causing respiratory problems or pneumonia.
 

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You have the option of deciding how dark you want your wheels. I sprayed about 3 or 4 light coats waiting about 30 minutes in between coats until I had the desired darkness I wanted. I was really tempted to leave them a charcoal color half black and half silver, but finally decided on a more solid black.

NOTE: Some people decide to mask off certain areas of the wheel, perhaps the spokes or such, giving the wheel a two-tone effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Remember to remove the valve stem cap and either tape or use old ones so that paint does not get into the valve stem.

Legal requires that we must make a the following warning:
Remember to paint only in a well-ventilated area making sure there is no gas heater or anything that could cause a spark. These paint fumes are flammable.

After I reached the desired darkness color, I gave each wheel about 5 or 6 coats of clear coat. I suppose that I could have lightly sanded the wheels to make them silky smooth inbetween each coat of paint, and you can if you want, but in my book, they are wheels, which are likely to get scuffed up, curb dented, and dog pee'd on.

To make the wheels a more solid black color, I purchased black lug nuts. The one shiney lug nut is the locking lug nut. I considered putting a dab of paint on the locking lug nut, but decided I would rather a thief see this lug nut and let him choose a different car.

This is actually the effect I wanted. To me it gives my CT the look of expensive custom wheels for less than $60.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
If you want to add new Brembo Disc Brake Calipers, now would be the time to do it. Ok, these are NOT the real Brembo Calipers, but the glue on Caliper covers. I just wanted to see how they looked. Actually not bad, but after playing with them for a while, I decided not to use them. I wanted to stick with the black or chrome look and the chrome'ish color of the original calipers I felt were just fine. If I were to have used these covers, I would have painted the calipers first with RED VHT High Heat paint, or special caliper paint so that anything that these covers don't cover would also appear red. A set of front and rear covers run about $50 on Ebay in your choice of about 10 different colors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Finished: Not great pictures as it was a very sunny day out, but you can see the difference between what was the silver wheels and the now black chrome wheels. For getting that new wheel look on a budget, this worked out great. I’m curious how this paint will hold up to car washes, road salt, rocks, and other wear and tear, including dog pee. I’ll update this in a few months to let you all know how this paint survived the winter.

I'm now considering painting the grille using this same process (to match the wheels of course)!!
 

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Is that a lift in your home garage? How easy / difficult was that to get installed and if you don't mind what was the cost?

btw... luv reading your walk thru's and comments... I may not always comment, but I do appreciate it. thank you!
 

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Is that a lift in your home garage? How easy / difficult was that to get installed and if you don't mind what was the cost?

btw... luv reading your walk thru's and comments... I may not always comment, but I do appreciate it. thank you!

I actually custom built the garage around the lift. I had the contractor bury some concrete barrels under where I was going to mount the lift footing. I knew I wanted a 10,000 pound lift, and using a one square foot mounting plate would have to otherwise be very thick concrete underneath. With the barrels, I was able to get by with 5 inches of concrete throughout the garage.

As for the lift, I picked a Worth lift out of Texas. They are not the most expensive nor the cheapest, but I was specifically looking for:
1) Asymmetric (Meaning the posts are angled so that you can open a car door without banging it into the posts). Normally angled about 30 degrees.
2) 10,000 capacity, so that I can lift most all cars and trucks.
3) Overhead style - (meaning that the connecting cables and supports) are connected at the top of the lift as opposed to on the floor under a metal tray. I wanted this so that I could hide the upper cables and supports in the attic.
4) Heavy Duty maintenance free upper bearings - as I was planning on boxing in the upper section of the lift and did not want a lift that required oiling or greasing frequently. After installation, I sheet rocked everything back up so it now looks like just two posts standing independently.

I have had this lift now for about 10 years and don’t ever regret having installed it.

Worth sent me the lift ‘motor-freight’. The truck company would not deliver to a home residence, so I had to rent myself a U-haul to pick it up. My wife and I picked it up and the trucking company loaded it into the U-haul trailer with a forklift. The weight of the lift was about 2300 pounds all parts strapped together.

When we got it home, we had to unpackage it in the U-haul and move the separate components into the garage. That also was not easy. I did find out that my wife has a very strong back!! Once I made the appropriate measurements, I had to rent from Home Depot a big concrete drill and purchased concrete anchors. While I had the drill I installed a few extra anchors around the garage for pulling body panels. I cut a slot about 8 foot by 2 foot into the garage sheet rock ceiling, we installed the upright posts, bolted it all together, put in hydraulic fluid and then wired it up. It runs on 230volt 50 amp. Keep in mind that you only run the lift about 45 seconds while going up only. Going down does not use the motor. The lift does use quite a bit of momentary electricity, so if you are on a 200 amp service, you could blow your breaker in the hot of summer.

Worth told me that they could send someone out to install the lift at the cost of $400. I declined, on the belief that I could probably do it better. Hope I was right.

All lifts require that you check the mounting bolts regularly for tightness, grease the slides in the columns, check cable tension, and minor lubrication. The cost of the lift by itself was about $2500 and it came with free shipping. With the U-haul trailer, drill rental, hydraulic fluid, and other things, probably add about another $250. What was the cost of maintaining the lift for the last 10 years? About $100 (being some grease, oil, and red and yellow spray paint for touch up).

In purchasing a lift, don’t buy the cheapest or the most expensive. Decide on what you need and then find a lift that will suit you. A mechanic friend of mine is 6 foot 10 inches. He dealt with a lift company that was able to modify the lift to make it higher so that it would allow him to fully stand up under a car. Again, find a lift that suites YOUR needs.

My neighbors, friends, relatives all love me for my lift. In the winter or during a hail storm, we often will put a vehicle on the lift and then drive another vehicle under it. That way we can get 4 cars into a 3 car garage. If you have a large tractor or large mower, you can get an attachment for the lift to raise your tractor up like a car.

Doing transmissions, engines, lots of brake jobs, and my CSI work, I’m sure the lift paid for itself in less than 1 year. I can’t imagine having to get out the creeper. My back really appreciates it too! And yes, my wife really does come out and often helps me install transmissions and engines when necessary. She is a good sport about this, just as I am when she shops at the Coach store.

If you have any specific questions about a lift, feel free to ask.
 

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Wow, I'm impressed! Great explanation on the lift and ideas to use! Thank you again. Just wish you were my neighbor / friend! LOL!
 

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Excellent! Nice tutorial on the wheels and that lift is absolutely the bomb! Thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I actually repainted my wheels a more satin black and added an "American Racing" chrome center cap. This is the look I will be keeping and like. I'll post some pictures shortly.
 
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