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I purchased this HID kit back in June and been sitting in my garage for quite a while. Finally, I had a chance to get it done last weekend. It takes me 3+ hours total. The most PITA part is to take off the clips. Man, that hurt me fingers so much. Luckly I didn't break or damage any parts during installation. Everything works as it supposes to be. If you have any questions regarding to how to install HID, I have experiences now and would be glad to share with you :D

It takes few seconds to get to its 100% brightness. You can compare 2 pictures I attached.
 

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Nice job, Act. You'll like them. Much better visibility.

I put HID's in the h/lights without taking off the bumper but find taking it off necessary to get to the fogs enough to get the new bulbs in.

I'm interested in exactly what holds it on.

TNX
C.
 

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interesting. I put the bulbs on from the sides. It should be similar as what you did. My hand isn't small enough to access from the top(engine bay). So I did as what manual book said(the section of how to change low beam bulb).
 

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interesting. I put the bulbs on from the sides. It should be similar as what you did. My hand isn't small enough to access from the top(engine bay). So I did as what manual book said(the section of how to change low beam bulb).
I hear you.....and yes the book says ........but couldn't get my hand in far enough. Close but no go. Will have to get the bumper off.....It will be easier to mount the igniter and ballast also.

It'll have to be spring now....I'm done wrestling with it in this weather...:rolleyes:

I had a quick look at the bumper clips and such and it doesn't look too bad.
Just need some decent weather...:)

C.
 

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I purchased this HID kit back in June and been sitting in my garage for quite a while. Finally, I had a chance to get it done last weekend. It takes me 3+ hours total. The most PITA part is to take off the clips. Man, that hurt me fingers so much. Luckly I didn't break or damage any parts during installation. Everything works as it supposes to be. If you have any questions regarding to how to install HID, I have experiences now and would be glad to share with you :D

It takes few seconds to get to its 100% brightness. You can compare 2 pictures I attached.
Great JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wish I had the time and/or fortitude. Come to East Texas and lets make a deal
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I hear you.....and yes the book says ........but couldn't get my hand in far enough. Close but no go. Will have to get the bumper off.....It will be easier to mount the igniter and ballast also.

It'll have to be spring now....I'm done wrestling with it in this weather...:rolleyes:

I had a quick look at the bumper clips and such and it doesn't look too bad.
Just need some decent weather...:)

C.
It takes 2 steps to take off clips. First, use '-' screwdriver to pry up the clip. This will unlock the clip. Second, you have to pull it off by hand. I didn't want to use tools to pry it out because it might damage the clip. (FYI, dealers sell $5 per clip, what a rip off) It was kinda chill out there last Saturday morning. So, that's why my fingers hurt..... :mad:

Clips on top of engine bay is easy. But there are 16 total at the bottom. I didn't jackup the car. You cam imagine how tiny spaces I had to work.

Make sure to tight up ballasts well. You don't want them to drop after few bumps :D
 

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I had an '09 Honda Fit with HIDs and had to ask about the CTs setup. I had issues with HIDs interacting horribly with the DRL system on the Fit. The HIDs started making clicking sounds when in DRL mode because they were so underpowered and would have eventually fried them early. Does the CTs DRL system give your HIDs full power in "AUTO" setting or do you have to put the switch to "ON" to get full power?

Thanks
 

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I had an '09 Honda Fit with HIDs and had to ask about the CTs setup. I had issues with HIDs interacting horribly with the DRL system on the Fit. The HIDs started making clicking sounds when in DRL mode because they were so underpowered and would have eventually fried them early. Does the CTs DRL system give your HIDs full power in "AUTO" setting or do you have to put the switch to "ON" to get full power?

Thanks

DRL (Daytime Running Lights) on my 07 Pilot, 10 Pilot, 08 Accord, 10 CT all run off the highs beams not the low beams. HIDs are usually only installed on the lows historically. I find it hard to believe that Honda would put the DRLs on the FIT on the low beams. If this is the case you are going to have problems unless you can turn off the DRL (maybe take out the fuse for it).

In auto in my CT and Pilot and I get full power to my Lows.
 

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My brother had DRLs running through his lowbeams on his 09 lancer. When installing his HIDs, the lights did not start at all because of the DRL. Removing the DRL fuse solved the issue, even though he lost his DRL ability... Also good to use a relay harness...
 

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@spikeit: Yeah, the Fit had 3 bulbs in the headlight assembly: running light, blinker and hi/low bulb together. Because there was only one headlight bulb, it had 3 settings: DRL (dim), ON, and BRIGHTS. It was awesome being able to have bi-xenon HIDS (kinda wish the CT had them). I just wired the headlights to the "ON" key position and wired the blinker and running light bulbs together to have a two-bulb blinker on each front corner with no running lights. It actually made it look pretty nice!

@pgarci: That's kind of what happened. The vendor said it was the relay clicking because there wasn't enough juice flowing.
 

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Interesting configuration in the Fit. Thanks for clarifying.
 

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DRL (Daytime Running Lights) on my 07 Pilot, 10 Pilot, 08 Accord, 10 CT all run off the highs beams not the low beams. HIDs are usually only installed on the lows historically...
I installed HIDs on the low beams and all works fine and I was now considering HIDs for the high beams which operate the DRL as I don 't like the latter 's yellowy look. I assume that DRL operate on a percentage i.e., 50%, of the the wattage required to run the high beams. If so, will the DRL even work if replaced by an HID kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I installed HIDs on the low beams and all works fine and I was now considering HIDs for the high beams which operate the DRL as I don 't like the latter 's yellowy look. I assume that DRL operate on a percentage i.e., 50%, of the the wattage required to run the high beams. If so, will the DRL even work if replaced by an HID kit?
You can't run DRL as HID. Even if you lower power, you probably will blind every driver on the road!

Why don't you use LED bulb instead??
 

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post pic's of the led's when you get em installed on your vehicle... we'd luv to see what they look like on the ct!
 

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LED DRL, 4500K HID, and all interior LED

post pic's of the led's when you get em installed on your vehicle... we'd luv to see what they look like on the ct!
Lowbeams: 4500 HIDs, I had the same set-up on my previous vehicle and I haven 't looked back. The light is so white and clear that my wife even asked me to instal a set on her new Forester.

DRL: The DRL just been replaced/upgraded to LED bulbs. They were a PITA to install due to tight access but they are in.
Problem: Once the LEDs bulbs were in, the 'DRL' light on my dash came on suggesting a problem (pic#4). I removed the DRL fuse but that did not cure the problem so I put the fuse back in. I noticed that if I left the light switch on 'AUTO' (pic#6), the warning DRL light on my dash vanished (pic#7)....this is not a long-term solution as one will have to be made so anyone with any ideas/suggestion please let me know.

Fogs: Foglights will also be LED and I have the bulbs but I had no time to do them tonight

Interior: I have also replaced all interior bulbs with LEDs (dome, map, doors, trunk) as I could not stand the traditional light regular bulbs emitted, it felt like a morgue (pic#8 & 9).


This is what the LED bulbs look like once installed



DRL with LED bulbs




LED DRL & HIDs both on







 
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