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Hi everyone. 2010 Crosstour EXL AWD w/ about 9500 miles on it. Car is being shipped to Poland next Saturday as I'm relocating for work. I just picked up the CT from the dealer and they did a rebalance which didn't really change much. Here is the issue:

Driving around 70-75MPH and removing foot off the gas causes vibration/shimmy in steering wheel until about 60MPH.

Its not a huge problem but seeing as Ill have the car overseas where CT's are non-existant I don't want to learn that this is an expensive VCM/Motor Mount issue which *must* be fixed.

What do you all think I should do? Honda has no idea what the issue is and wants me to come back next week to ride with the techs. I'd rather live with it than know someone is tinkering with all those things.
 

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I'm reading that the only time this shimmy/vibration appears is when you are backing down and not accelerating.

With 'old time' rear wheel drive cars this was usually the universal joints on the drive shaft.

I know that is a 'stone age' comment, I hope someone with 21st
century knowledge can comment on the front wheel shafts and if the rear shaft is indeed essentially the same.

In any event, good luck with a fix and good luck in Europe, let us know how the Polish folks react to the CT.
 

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Could it possibly be that the rotors need to be turned on a lathe? Had that on a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the rotors were warped; I felt the vibration/shimmy when applying the brakes at speed. Rotors were replaced in my case.

Good luck!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the couple replies. The rotors were already turned so thanks for the tip. Unfortunately the vibration happens when no braking is being applied.

I went to the Honda dealership in Hartford, CT today and took a drive with one of the senior technicians. He confirmed that the vibration at those high speeds is pretty typical in the newer Accords and is a combination of various things including road conditions coupled with a very stiff and sensitive suspension. Our roads in CT are ok but it makes sense.

Maybe not the best thing I wanted to hear but so long as its normal and my engine won't drop out once I hit a pothole somewhere in Europe I'm satisfied.

In any event Ill post some photos soon enough, I think the CT will look pretty cool (and unique!) with all those tiny European cars wearing new Polish plates :)
 

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What you describe is definitely not "normal" in my experience. I've been driving a 4WD EX-L w/ Navi for 1 year as of today.

The only other thing that comes to mind might be something going on with the stability control system (and/or one or more of the wheel-speed sensors). I would push on the dealership to have a look at it one more time.

Is the symptom more pronounced on downhills or cornering or the same when you let off the gas no matter going up or down hill, cornering or going straight?

Not sure if this is recommended (see what the tech says before trying my old school troubleshooting technique) but one way to test would be get the car above the speed where the vibration occurs, let off the gas and drop the transmission into neutral to see if it still does the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What you describe is definitely not "normal" in my experience. I've been driving a 4WD EX-L w/ Navi for 1 year as of today.

The only other thing that comes to mind might be something going on with the stability control system (and/or one or more of the wheel-speed sensors). I would push on the dealership to have a look at it one more time.

Is the symptom more pronounced on downhills or cornering or the same when you let off the gas no matter going up or down hill, cornering or going straight?

Not sure if this is recommended (see what the tech says before trying my old school troubleshooting technique) but one way to test would be get the car above the speed where the vibration occurs, let off the gas and drop the transmission into neutral to see if it still does the same thing.

Good tip on the neutral thing. It only happens when im going completely straight one speed. Ill try what you suggest and post with results.
 

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adamkpl you are not unique

I bought a '10 CT 4WD 6 weeks ago w/ 13k miles on it. I noticed within a couple weeks a vibration between 65 and 75 mph. The steering wheel will slightly "shimmy" at those speeds and I can feel the vibration through the accelerator pedal and also under my butt. It disappears for all other speeds. I do also notice a slight shudder from 20 - 25 mph, which I think is unrelated. At 80 it is smooth again.
The dealer balanced a tire and said they thought the problem was fixed. I brought it back the next week and they diagnosed a bad tire. They replaced that tire and the one across from it, rebalencing all 4. The problem was still apparent. The third time is supposed to be a charm, right? I grabbed a service adviser and made him drive the car through the suspect speeds. He concurred the problem existed. This time they replaced a wheel (the fancy chrome plated ones). That did not work so they replaced ALL 4 wheels for me. The problem diminished in scope but was still evident. The steering wheel stopped shaking but you could still feel the vibration through the seat. They tried 1 additional new chrome wheel. No luck. Experimenting, they then swapped the 4 chrome wheels for 4 of their regular alloy wheels on a new car from the lot. I was told the ride was "smooth as glass". They could not let me drive away with the other wheels however and returned my old wheels (and new tires) to my CT. They look great but I think the problem has everything to do with the chromies!
They are now waiting for a regional Honda Rep to make a decision on springing for the alloy wheels to solve my problem. Hope this helps you figure out your problem. If you drive in the city and never go over about 62....? LOVE MY RIDE, just want it smooth to cruise! Avoiding 65-75 is impossible.
 

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I bought a '10 CT 4WD 6 weeks ago w/ 13k miles on it. I noticed within a couple weeks a vibration between 65 and 75 mph. The steering wheel will slightly "shimmy" at those speeds and I can feel the vibration through the accelerator pedal and also under my butt. It disappears for all other speeds. I do also notice a slight shudder from 20 - 25 mph, which I think is unrelated. At 80 it is smooth again.
The dealer balanced a tire and said they thought the problem was fixed. I brought it back the next week and they diagnosed a bad tire. They replaced that tire and the one across from it, rebalencing all 4. The problem was still apparent. The third time is supposed to be a charm, right? I grabbed a service adviser and made him drive the car through the suspect speeds. He concurred the problem existed. This time they replaced a wheel (the fancy chrome plated ones). That did not work so they replaced ALL 4 wheels for me. The problem diminished in scope but was still evident. The steering wheel stopped shaking but you could still feel the vibration through the seat. They tried 1 additional new chrome wheel. No luck. Experimenting, they then swapped the 4 chrome wheels for 4 of their regular alloy wheels on a new car from the lot. I was told the ride was "smooth as glass". They could not let me drive away with the other wheels however and returned my old wheels (and new tires) to my CT. They look great but I think the problem has everything to do with the chromies!
They are now waiting for a regional Honda Rep to make a decision on springing for the alloy wheels to solve my problem. Hope this helps you figure out your problem. If you drive in the city and never go over about 62....? LOVE MY RIDE, just want it smooth to cruise! Avoiding 65-75 is impossible.

Hal,

Seei if they can do a 'road force balance' on all four tires, this has been the solution for some of us with the same symptoms.
 

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Still vibrating in Nevada...

Thanks for the advise, ArmyDad. I learned alot about tires today and "road force balancing". Unfortunately, my Honda guys already employ that method. My bad wheel diagnostics happened because of the "road force" machine they have in their shop. They have tried gallantly to solve this but the problem persists. I'd like to hear how many CT'ers have had the Chromed Alloy design wheels work effectively. Maybe Honda had a bad batch out of spec? As I said earlier, I was told that the standard wheel design (gray or silver coated) worked flawlessly......
 

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With 'old time' rear wheel drive cars this was usually the universal joints on the drive shaft.

I know that is a 'stone age' comment, I hope someone with 21st
century knowledge can comment on the front wheel shafts and if the rear shaft is indeed essentially the same.
LOL ... a 21st century comment would be to 'Google' it. :)
 
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