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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok - I'm sort of a lighting freak, not a PIAA off road lights on the grille kind of guy, but more of a functionally as useful, safe, and accurate as is reasonably possible.

One thing that has agitated me a bit about the CT's headlamp assembly since I got it is the configuration of the turn signal. (Disclaimer - I'm a bit OCD, you may not at all consider this a problem! :] ) I do not like how it is far inboard, right by the grille, and it's an amber bulb behind a relatively heavy tinted amber diffuser.

My specific gripes are that the flip/flop between parking light mode and turn signal indication isn't bright enough, and being so far inboard it doesn't have enough visibility to the sides of the car. When I'm at an intersection I *really* like people to my left and my right to know when and where I will be turning. In fact if you are as OCD as myself you will probably notice it is not common to have just one turn signal indicator in the front of a vehicle and have it be inboard of the headlight low beams.

I don't know what, if anything, could be done to make the existing turn signal bulb brighter or more visible but I was thinking about wiring the outside parking light bulb to function in tandem with the turn signal. My friend has an RDX and his turn signal is also inboard by the grille, but unlike the stock CT, his turn signal also flashes that outside parking light bulb (and the LEDs in his side mirror . . .dang it).

So I was looking at the parts diagram online



Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the blow out diagram of these bulbs is in the wrong order. . .
14/13 - inner turn signal
12/15 - outer parking light (should be to the right of the high beam)
8 - low beam
9 - high beam

Though this particular diagram doesn't show the wiring harnesses, I would speculate that the turn signal uses 3-wires and the outer parking light uses 2.

So my question is, has anyone played around with this? If I wanted them to flash in tandem and have the outer parking light still function I believe I'd have to change the socket and bulb to match 14/13, correct?

Another whacky idea I had was to emulate the (singular) cool thing I saw on a newer Pontiac the other day. . .it activated its turn signal and had one in the headlamp assembly blink and also it's fog light area blinked amber. I don't know if it also functioned as a fog light, he didn't have them on. But it would work with those switchback type LED bulbs. However that would require converting our H11 fogs to something like a 3057 type, and I don't know what would be required to do that.

I also noticed the new 2012 TL has a turn signal down low by the fog light (but separate assemblies).

Thoughts, ideas?

Thx!
 

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I really like the idea of the outboard running lights blinking with the turn signals... almost seems like a no-brainer to me.

As far as wiring and what-nots, I'd have to do some more digging around to get a better idea. You shouldn't need to change bulbs, just wire them differently.

As far as the diagram, I believe that 8 is the HB and 11 is the LB.

Your assessment of 14 and 12 seem to be correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply, and glad to see I'm not the only one who thinks the outboard parking light would be a great mod to add to the turn signal.

Let me know if you have any specific ideas, I'd love to hear them.

This coming weekend I will probably be working on putting some HIDs in for my low beams and changing the fog bulbs. So, I'll have the front bumper off and easy access to that whole area if there is anything you'd like me to photograph/experiment with, etc., let me know and I'll be glad to share.

PS - The first time I took my bumper off was about 3 months after I got my car, to change my fog bulbs for the first go around (long story), near the washer fluid tank of the car there is essentially a pretty large, vacant compartment that is more or less blocked off to every single side when the bumper is on. Much to my horror while on my creeper facing up through the engine bay did I spy a dead bird skeleton in this sealed off area. Hopefully it was a domestic bird so I didn't get any exposure to Asian bird flu. ;)
 

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Since we don't seem to be getting the turn-signal side mirrors that they have in China, this seems like a nice alternative. It can't take much more than some re-feeding of the outside lamp?
As an alternative, you could change the feed to the outside bulb to be the same as the turn signal bulb, then install some LEDs drilled into the outside back reflector and feed them from the original outside lamp feed. Same functions, outside turn signal function, and cool LE running lights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, service manual will be here later today, very excited. . .some preliminary research though.

- first I looked up our bulb breakdown on the Osram/Sylvania bulb finder and it said both the front turn signal and parking light were 1157 type bulbs, which I thought was great because that is the incandescent dual filament kind of "bayonet" base style bulb (1156 looks identical but mono-filament). The dual filament is what gives it both parking light (low output) and turn signal (high output) mode. As you can tell by looking at the turn signal when its on, it's not a flip/flop on-off turn signal. . .

So it said the other bulb was also an 1157 that I figured for some crazy reason they only hooked up 2 wires to it and lit it on low power, and everything was already in place just needed to bring over that 3rd wire. . .but alas, Osram guide was wrong. Looking at the parts diagram in my post above, the sockets and bulbs are totally different. The inner turn signal is indeed an 1157 (referred to inconspicuously as "grey socket" in the parts list :) ) but the outer parking light is a wedge style T10 base with only 2 wires.

I'm guessing the outer bulb is a T10 because it's a pretty tight space it's packed in, and the 1157 bulb has that traditional "lightbulb" pear shape that probably wouldn't fit.

So it would probably be easy to wire it to be off at all times (you now only have one parking light, by the grill. . .) and come ON with the turn signal.

Service manual just got here. . .off to research I go!
 

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Ok, service manual will be here later today, very excited. . .some preliminary research though.

- first I looked up our bulb breakdown on the Osram/Sylvania bulb finder and it said both the front turn signal and parking light were 1157 type bulbs, which I thought was great because that is the incandescent dual filament kind of "bayonet" base style bulb (1156 looks identical but mono-filament). The dual filament is what gives it both parking light (low output) and turn signal (high output) mode. As you can tell by looking at the turn signal when its on, it's not a flip/flop on-off turn signal. . .

So it said the other bulb was also an 1157 that I figured for some crazy reason they only hooked up 2 wires to it and lit it on low power, and everything was already in place just needed to bring over that 3rd wire. . .but alas, Osram guide was wrong. Looking at the parts diagram in my post above, the sockets and bulbs are totally different. The inner turn signal is indeed an 1157 (referred to inconspicuously as "grey socket" in the parts list :) ) but the outer parking light is a wedge style T10 base with only 2 wires.

I'm guessing the outer bulb is a T10 because it's a pretty tight space it's packed in, and the 1157 bulb has that traditional "lightbulb" pear shape that probably wouldn't fit.

So it would probably be easy to wire it to be off at all times (you now only have one parking light, by the grill. . .) and come ON with the turn signal.

Service manual just got here. . .off to research I go!
Yeah, I would find it very unlikely that the outboard running lights are 1157s...

Keep us posted!
 

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You know, I was thinking...

With a couple simple automotive relays (one on each side) you could have the electricity to the side marker lights interrupted with the respective side's turn signal is activated.

The result would be a blinking side marker light with the turn signal.

(It would essentially be opposite... as the inboard turn signal increases in intensity the corner marker would turn off. There are already many cars out there that operate this way.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mods a plenty today!

Ok full write-ups with pics will follow later this week, but wanted to share some videos on lighting mods I did today asap.

1. I think I will eventually do as Xaque suggested and use a relay to just interrupt the outside parking lights, but for today I did something a little more simple.

- I disabled my DRLs (I was going to install an HID kit for my low beams which would have necessitated not having the car try to kick the low beams on at a low wattage. . . so not particularly important for today but in case you're wondering why they are out
- Connected the outside parking light to the turn signal lead, so now you can actually see the turn signal from a wide field of view in front and on the side of the car
- The far outside parking light (now turnsignal) is a type 168 bulb, a similarly sized 168 in LED would normally be less bright and also "hyperflash," but there is plenty of room in there to have a much longer 168 (I have huge ones in my trunk/cargo area to make it extra well lit) and also since it's wired in series with the main inner parking/turnsignal light, it wouldn't trigger the "hyperflash" if the outside bulb was an LED. . .maybe for next weekend
- Check out video here of DRL delete; turn signal mod; and turn signal mod w/ low beams on (in that order).
- Unrelated, but you might notice my low beams, they are about 6000k, they are made to match HIDs in color, once I get my HIDs in I will throw these bulb into the fogs

2. I did a mod on the rear CHMSL brake light along the lines of the way the Porsche Panamera brake light works (reference towards the bottom of this page, "in the event of. . .").
- You may have seen this in action, a few high end vehicles I've seen have this. . .it's pretty neat, it only goes on for a quick burst when you first hit the brake pedal, then is steady.
- I was able to set the duration of the flashing and the flash rate (not to stroboscopic, not too slow and unnoticeable). Check out video here.
- PS you also might notice in this video my reverse lights, they are 5w Cree LED (Cree is a really good brand of LED, and 5w is a lot!) w/ both a projector lens and side diffusion within the reflector. . .they are brighter and whiter than stock
- PPS I also have LED license plate lights

Like I said, full illustrated write ups will be posted later this week, total cost about $20 including misc. wiring.
 

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Mods a plenty today!

Ok full write-ups with pics will follow later this week, but wanted to share some videos on lighting mods I did today asap.

1. I think I will eventually do as Xaque suggested and use a relay to just interrupt the outside parking lights, but for today I did something a little more simple.

- I disabled my DRLs (I was going to install an HID kit for my low beams which would have necessitated not having the car try to kick the low beams on at a low wattage. . . so not particularly important for today but in case you're wondering why they are out
- Connected the outside parking light to the turn signal lead, so now you can actually see the turn signal from a wide field of view in front and on the side of the car
- The far outside parking light (now turnsignal) is a type 168 bulb, a similarly sized 168 in LED would normally be less bright and also "hyperflash," but there is plenty of room in there to have a much longer 168 (I have huge ones in my trunk/cargo area to make it extra well lit) and also since it's wired in series with the main inner parking/turnsignal light, it wouldn't trigger the "hyperflash" if the outside bulb was an LED. . .maybe for next weekend
- Check out video here of DRL delete; turn signal mod; and turn signal mod w/ low beams on (in that order).
- Unrelated, but you might notice my low beams, they are about 6000k, they are made to match HIDs in color, once I get my HIDs in I will throw these bulb into the fogs

2. I did a mod on the rear CHMSL brake light along the lines of the way the Porsche Panamera brake light works (reference towards the bottom of this page, "in the event of. . .").
- You may have seen this in action, a few high end vehicles I've seen have this. . .it's pretty neat, it only goes on for a quick burst when you first hit the brake pedal, then is steady.
- I was able to set the duration of the flashing and the flash rate (not to stroboscopic, not too slow and unnoticeable). Check out video here.
- PS you also might notice in this video my reverse lights, they are 5w Cree LED (Cree is a really good brand of LED, and 5w is a lot!) w/ both a projector lens and side diffusion within the reflector. . .they are brighter and whiter than stock
- PPS I also have LED license plate lights

Like I said, full illustrated write ups will be posted later this week, total cost about $20 including misc. wiring.
Good deal Aceman. I was thinking about swapping out my reverse lights to LED but wasn't sure if the performance would be good enough to actually use.

(Since I do actually use my reverse lights.)

Also, the lowbeams (projectors) are separate from the DRLs. The DRLs are the highbeams driven at a lower wattage. You should be able to swap out the lows with HIDs and not worry about DRLs.

And lastly, and I'm only saying this for reference, not that I don't think it's a beneficial mod, but altering the CHMSL ("third brake light") to do anything other than come on steady when the brakes are applied, is in violation of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Law.

Just thought I would mention that.

;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
And lastly, and I'm only saying this for reference, not that I don't think it's a beneficial mod, but altering the CHMSL ("third brake light") to do anything other than come on steady when the brakes are applied, is in violation of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Law.

Just thought I would mention that.

;)
I don't disbelieve that to the letter of the law that is completely correct. . .but as someone that's been rearended by people who weren't paying attention twice, I'm willing to get that ticket as my form of civil disobedience, I'm sure it'd be less than my insurance deductible. :)

Also, the Porsche Panamera has similar behavior totally OEM (as described in that link) and I've seen a handful of cars of Top Gear that will rapidly flash the entire brake light cluster (maybe that's the difference, it's all 3 vs. just the CHMSL) when launch control is engaged. Not that engaging launch control on open public roads is a regular occurrence. . . :p

And I'm a complete idiot on the DRL thing, you're totally right - for some reason after spending a whole day around the low beams, the high beams, the fogs, the HID kit (which was made for the wrong bulbs, maybe this is what threw me off), I convinced myself the DRLs came out of the low beams - which makes no sense, why would any vehicle have projector beam DRLs, and I've spent enough time looking at the front of the CT to know the DRLs are on the inside, closer to the grill. . .doh!

And my reverse lights are actually 7w Cree led, I just checked. You can just search on eBay (I narrow to US sellers, excluding the Hong Kong and Chinese based ones that take like 4 weeks to get here) for "cree led 7440" I want to say they run about $30 a pair for legitimate Crees.
 

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I had one of those blinking break lights on my last motorcycle... the thing worked AMAZINGLY well to keep people back.
 

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Thanks for the reply, and glad to see I'm not the only one who thinks the outboard parking light would be a great mod to add to the turn signal.

Let me know if you have any specific ideas, I'd love to hear them.

This coming weekend I will probably be working on putting some HIDs in for my low beams and changing the fog bulbs. So, I'll have the front bumper off and easy access to that whole area if there is anything you'd like me to photograph/experiment with, etc., let me know and I'll be glad to share.

PS - The first time I took my bumper off was about 3 months after I got my car, to change my fog bulbs for the first go around (long story), near the washer fluid tank of the car there is essentially a pretty large, vacant compartment that is more or less blocked off to every single side when the bumper is on. Much to my horror while on my creeper facing up through the engine bay did I spy a dead bird skeleton in this sealed off area. Hopefully it was a domestic bird so I didn't get any exposure to Asian bird flu. ;)
Aceman, How about some major detailed step by step pics on removing the front bumper.
The plastic fasteners seem straight forward but the metal side clips concern me ..

Thanks
Pete
(Soon to do the HID swap)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Aceman, How about some major detailed step by step pics on removing the front bumper.
The plastic fasteners seem straight forward but the metal side clips concern me ..

Thanks
Pete
(Soon to do the HID swap)
Pete - you got it, it's in the works and should have it up within 48hrs or so. . .made sure to take *lots* of pics as my friend and I worked.

Some tips of things you might want to pickup ahead of taking off the bumper. . .pretty indispensable tools IMHO to safely work on any exterior plastic panel or interior trim.

First thing I'd do if I were you though would be to a set of these nylon body tools (these are the exact same ones I own, this is a pretty good buy, the tools are high quality. . .you will end up using the ones that are shaped like curved tongue depresser shaped pry bars the most) and also (though the V-shaped nylon tools *look* like they should be able to easily pop out the plastic panel rivets. . .and maybe they can, albeit slowly) something called a "tack puller" will help breeze you through removing all the rivet clips on the top and the bottom without mangling them up like a screwdriver would. Personally this is the one I've had in my toolbox forever but I also like the look of this one at Amazon (the curved fork ends will result in even less mangling I imagine). I also try to keep a big handful of these plastic body rivets on hand because they are dirt cheap via eBay compared to what you'd pay at a dealer if you needed a couple.

Another thing you'll see in the pics when I post them is the first unveiling of my new Rhino ramps. Not totally nessecary for this job, what minimal work you need to do from the bottom to remove the bumper can be done by barely poking your arm and head under there, but I wanted to try something that I can use in the future that is faster and less precarious than breaking out the jack and jack stands each time.

Short story is I really like them, they fit the width of our stock tires exactly, and are very durably built. It raises the front of the vehicle to a very comfortable height to work under it. . .I'm 6'4" 230lbs or so and gasped in excitement when I saw how easily the oil drain bolt and oil filter were to access now. I don't use a creeper (yet) but I'm sure it would still allow for comfortable access. It took maybe 10min with a friend, a tape measure and a 2x4 (or anything else long and straight. . .that's what she said) to align them properly the first time, then I just did a chalk outline of them so in the future I just set them on my outlines.

They are $75ish at Amazon but amazingly $45 at the local Autozone.

More soon!
 

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Aceman thanks for the wisdom !

Look forward to the details, also I doplan on ordering the body tools !

Thanks, Best Regards

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well, Russia or not - I don't know if we're gonna find a way to do this much cheaper than this, this can't be too much more than what these mirrors would list for if they sold them here (our non folding ones are about $200 and I'm not sure if that includes the outer painted shell or not).

Mirrors $625

Switch $95

and you could probably sell your old mirrors & switch on eBay for $100-$200

Not a 100% guarantee that it works without having it in my hands, but - after close examination of our wiring harness it looks like (according to Xaque's judgement, much more reliable than mine) if you have the DPMS the folding mirrors w/ turn signals should work. Worst case, they don't, you could probably sell them for what you bought them for (or more) on eBay to an enterprising Accord owner.

-ace
 

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Well, Russia or not - I don't know if we're gonna find a way to do this much cheaper than this, this can't be too much more than what these mirrors would list for if they sold them here (our non folding ones are about $200 and I'm not sure if that includes the outer painted shell or not).

Mirrors $625

Switch $95

and you could probably sell your old mirrors & switch on eBay for $100-$200

Not a 100% guarantee that it works without having it in my hands, but - after close examination of our wiring harness it looks like (according to Xaque's judgement, much more reliable than mine) if you have the DPMS the folding mirrors w/ turn signals should work. Worst case, they don't, you could probably sell them for what you bought them for (or more) on eBay to an enterprising Accord owner.

-ace
Here is a question that I honestly don't know the answer to:

That is a UK listing... Are the optics different on the mirrors for vehicles meant to be driving on the "wrong" side of the road?

(I know that headlights are designed differently, not sure about mirrors.)
 
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