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I am getting ready to do an oil change and I can only find Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W/20 at the store. We are not ready to switch to synthetic oil. Could I get away wth using 5W/20? I use it in my wife's 03 Pilot.
Thanks
Thanks
What real time fuel economy can I expect from my new EX-L 4WD?Honda has recommend 5w-20 for more than the past decade. In my opinion to switch to 0w-20 synthetic you are dealing with politics called "CAFE Fuel Economy Standards". I've been using Mobil Super 1000 5w-20 in my Crosstour since my 1st oil change with zero oil consumption and pleased with my MPG. My current oddometer reading 14358km (8912 miles)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corporate_Average_Fuel_Economy
I'm a wrench, not a chemist, but I would like to hear if anyone with REAL knowledge on the subject knows the difference (better/worse) between the oil mentioned by Classic Captain and Mobil-1's 0w-20. Here's a reference to Mobil's... Click, open and scroll down to properties.Does anyone know why Honda North America left Idemitsu as there OEM oil supplier?
I hear that it is now Conoco Phillips . The reason I ask is for my New Crosstour , The required oil is 0w20 Synthetic . Here is the specs for Idemitsu:
http://www.ilacorp.biz/spec-sheets/idemitsu_%200w-20_specs.pdf
I wonder how it compares to new OEM oil? If its just a bulk thing for dealers okay, but if its a different formulation , I would like to know.
I believe the manual touches on how it's calculated, but essentially, all cars with this feature do so based on:I have about 8k on my CT and a "20% oil life" remaining (I'd like to know *exactly* how that is calculated some day. . .I have some guesses, but it'd be interesting to know), and called my dealer to get my first free oil change (after which I will be taking over! :] ), and he said "call back when you get to about 5% remaining. . .the factory fill has special additives for break in that they want to remain in for as long as possible." To which I will comply. . .but. . .I think you could also make a case for exactly how the car is driven being as important, if not more so, than the amount of time that factory fill is left in there. Once I start changing it I will use the OE filters and Mobil 1 synthetic every 3-4 months or 5k miles whichever is first.
A fun thing I did on prior car I used to own was send some of its oil in for lab analysis, it was pretty cheap ($25ish) and informative, though not earth shattering.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Makes sense. . .it would be nice if all cars had a hour-meter as well, but I guess the maintenance reminder system and prescribed routine maintenance schedule probably err on the side of safety for all other fluids and consumables or "rotables" as they are called in aviationI believe the manual touches on how it's calculated, but essentially, all cars with this feature do so based on:
Miles Driven
Revolutions Made
Time Passed
And then some engine temp, speed and start/stop cycles are thrown in as well.
The idea being that you will only get an oil change when you really need it.
I actually went 8480 miles before my first oil change ws needed. Then again I drive literally 7 miles a day to and from work, but good to know that the car tells me when it needs an oil change rather than the standard "every 3k-5k" thing of the past.
I know I'm going to come off like a jerk here, but you couldn't be more wrong. There's a reason different maintenance schedules exist when it comes to short-distance driving. I'm going to save you from my typically long response and, instead, share with you a quote from a not-so-easily-accessed SAE oil report...
I will; however, preface this with the fact that all too often, people observe their engine temp gauge and assume when the needle starts to move or reaches normal operating temperature, that the engine is warmed up. WRONG WRONG WRONG
Triple that time... Even quadruple that time and you start to get close. The exception is the old-school boxer style oil-cooled engines. But then even those don't even account for internal engine expansion and so on.
Sorry, I'm doing it aren't I?
Anyway... Here it is.
From:
Assessment of Correlation Between Bench Wear Test Results and Engine Cylinder Wear, Short-Trip Service
"Since stop-and-go driving most often does not permit the engine to reach efficient temperatures, it is actually among the most severe types of car operation. Under these conditions the rate of oil contamination is high, and the ability of the oil to overcome the effects of the contamination is low. Low-temperature driving, short runs, and light-load operation all promote water accumulation, fuel dilution, and the formation of sludge, varnish, and corrosive acids."
I'm a wrench, not a chemist, but I would like to hear if anyone with REAL knowledge on the subject knows the difference (better/worse) between the oil mentioned by Classic Captain and Mobil-1's 0w-20. Here's a reference to Mobil's... Click, open and scroll down to properties.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-20_Advanced_Fuel_Economy.aspx
Ma's Crosstour was the OP of this thread, but the person I was writing to and the one I quoted was accordy2g (Response #14). In that response, accordy2g indicated that due to the short distance driven on a daily basis (7 miles roundtrip-to and from work), that it is acceptable to go the usual distance between oil changes. My interpretation of his post is corroborated by the fact that the first oil change was conducted at 8480.Am I the only one failing to see exactly what you're calling the OP "wrong" for? Are you chastising him for abiding by the built in service minder for oil change notifications? He didn't say he was going past them. As I read these posts consecutively I just am not picking up how your viewpoint is different than his. He drives short commutes and said he's glad not to have to abide by the routinized 3-5k schedules of the past and instead just pay attention to what the vehicle tells him.
PS - most cars don't have an oil temp gauge, they have a water temp gauge.
PPS - most water temp gauges function more as "dummy lights" (see one fluctuate a lot?) they are tuned like this intentionally so people don't think something is wrong with their radiator as it varies between 80c-125c or so coolant temp.
PPPS - which "old school oil cooled boxer engines" are you referring to? Pretty much all boxer engines till at least the '60s were air cooled (BMW, aviation engines, and most dominantly VW). I ask this because I'm actually interested historically if I'm missing something. . .and if you picked up this info at Jay Leno's house you get extra credit.
-ace