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Discussion Starter #1
The following is a DIY step-by-step on how to upgrade your OE rear sway bar as well as front and rear endlinks thus allowing for a more controlled ride and better handling.
At first, I replaced the rear sway bar only as the endlinks did not arrive on time and that already made a huge difference as the rear no longer swayed on turns. Once I added the upgraded endlinks, I feel the car is better poised and quite neutral versus displaying understeer as originally tuned from the factory.
I did not change the front swaybar given its already huge stock diameter. The objective of this modification was to balance out the rear handling characteristic of the vehicle by bringing it closer to that of the front and thus providing a more neutral feel.

Rear swaybar: I upgrded the rear stock swaybar to an Acura TL AWD rear swaybar and to accommodate the now thicker bar, I went with Subaru Tribeca front swaybar bushings. (pic 1 - 4)
Rear endlinks: stock endlinks have been replaced with KARTBOY 2008 Subaru WRX endlinks (pic 5)
Front endlinks: stock endlinks have been replaced with RALLITEK front WRX endlinks (Pic 6)


Stock rear swaybar (14mm diameter)


Acura TL AWD rear sway bar (part #: 25300-TK5-A02)



Tribeca bushings incl part #


KARTBOY rear endlinks 2008 WRX (purchased from www.fredbeansparts.com part #: KB-017-08)


KARTBOY supplied hardware but you will need 2 extra bolt just like this one, so take what KARTBOY supplied to your hardware store, and get 2 more along with 2 extra properly fitting nuts..spend the extra $$ and get stuff that is less prone to rust - I think they are 3/8 16 x 2.5 ")


RALLITEK front endlinks (part #: RTK-HDELF)


Step 1: put car on ramp


Step 2: Disconnect sway bar from endlink, and endlink from chassis using 9/16 wrench, use penetrating spray to loosen the rusty bolts.



STEP 3: Replace OE rear swaybar with Acura TL AWD rear swaybar and new KARTBOY endlinks. You will have to wiggle that OE swaybar lots and it 's tricky but there should be no need to remove wheels or undo exhaust. Be sure to put new grease on those Subaru Tribeca bushings (i used ball bearing grease)



Difference between OE and KARTBOY endlinks

Step 4: Repeat the same process on the opposite side. Once done it should look like this (caution: do not tighten/fasten anyone side fully, simply put all parts into place, put all washers & nuts on and loosely assemble as this will allow for an easier fit and adjustment)


Step 5: repeat same process but in the front using RALLITEK front endlink

Difference between OE front endlink and RALLITEK front endlink

TIP: most endlink will have a HEX key hole. This is so that you can insert the hex key into the hole and hold it steady while loosening or tightening with a wrench, as per pic. If you do not do this, the endlink bolts will simply turn on themselves.



Once done with the front endlink, it should look like this
 

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great job ! love the step by step photo's
 

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Wonderful write-up and great pictures!

I really appreciate it!

Do you care to share what the list price or cost of the parts were?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the positive feedback.
Cost was quite good:
1) fredbeansparts.com sold me the KARTBOY rear endlinks for $89 (pair), vs $125 as posted (plus shipping extra)
2) RALLITEK front endlinks were $59 (plus shipping)
3) ACURA TL AWD rear swaybar was < $100 (thanks RUSTY)
4) Tribeca bushings were $20
 

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KARTBOY supplied hardware but you will need 2 extra bolt just like this one, so take what KARTBOY supplied to your hardware store, and get 2 more along with 2 extra properly fitting nuts..spend the extra $$ and get stuff that is less prone to rust - I think they are 3/8 16 x 2.5 ")

i have very poor english when it comes to reading... not quite sure what this means??

about how long did it take you to do all this?
 

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Jack,

What model year was the TL-AWD swaybar, or does it really matter? How is the ride after the upgrade? Nice pics by the way
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I used the 2010 TL AWD model 's swaybar, I just ensured both vehicles were of the same generation so as to ensure same width in case engineering sneaked-in and made minor changes. I provided the part number for the TL AWD swaybar so it should all work fine on any 2010 and 2011 crosstours, and most likely 2012 models..

The ride is what it should have been from the factory;). I'm very big on suspension and I never lower them as it often offsets the geometry engineered by guys making 3 times my salary but I do like to tweek 'em and I have done so on every car I've owned. On the Crosstour, the upgraded swaybar & endlinks combo removed the excessive side-to-side sway from the back thus making cornering more controlled and linear. These changes are subtle and not punishing but a thicker sway bar from i.e., Progressive would definitely do that which is why I went the prudent/conservative way.

Thanks you for the bit about pics.

IMO, this swap is relatively simple, as per pics, so as long as you have a sense of adventure, it should be smooth sailing but having decent hand tools helps, air tools are overkill unless you're a tech and do this for a living.
 

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Jack,

Do you if the Kartboy front-end links will work on the CT? I've looked for the Rallitek @ 3 places and they were all out. Let me know what you think. Thanks for the response to my previous questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
^yes, the regular TL AWD rear bushings would work but the Tribeca ones were made of better material. It 's similar to replacing all your OE rubber suspension, steering, and differential bushing with polyurethane ones, the difference is night and day.
 

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That makes sense. How did you happen to cross reference the two? Well done.
I've never seen Subaru pieces used on a Honda. Great info- thx
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Prior to my CT, I had 4 Subarus and given their rally lineage, their aftermarket caters to suspension upgrades offering well engineered pieces. As such, these pieces can often be put on other vehicles as long as the lengths and angles fit. Example, the Mustang and most Volvo endlinks are extremely long so they would not fit many Hondas with the exception of perhaps the Ridgeline, Pilot and the ZDX. However, the rear endlinks from a Camaro are short and would then fit many other cars so an aftermarket Camaro rear endlink would a great choice as it 's made to withstand all the torque at the rear wheels.
 

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Swaybar & Endlink Upgrade

Jack,

I had the rear swaybar and endlinks done, I'm lucky enough to have a friend that is a Honda mechanic, it took him no time to do it. Did you have any issues after the upgrade, new sounds or noises, any new rear differential noises. You can really tell the difference with the thicker rear SB, it is nearly 2x the size of the old one. I'm hearing some new sounds from the area of the rear dif, was curious if you heard anything. Please let me know
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No sounds from mine at all, all is very smooth and quiet, as if it was OE.

Noise in that are due to a thicker sway could be:
1) no grease/lube between swaybar and bushing
2) bushing too tight for the now thicker swaybar
3) incorrect geometry due to endlink/swaybar combo and the pieces are not not working well together (endlinks too long/too short, swaybar too thick for the size of endlinks, etc)

What pieces did you use for this upgrade?
 

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Swaybar & Endlink Upgrade

Jack,

I used everything that you listed, same rear links from Kartboy, same front links from Rallitek, 2010 TL rear swaybar, TL rubber bushings. I did not have the bushing lubricated, what do you recommend as a lube for the bushings. Did you use any of ther spacers supplied from Kartboy, I did not since I did not see them on any of the pictures you posted. Would the length of the bolt (2.5 inches) be too long? Any suggestions
 
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