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just did the endlink upgrade

easy job makes a HUGE difference. the car feels planted. turn-in is snappier. it maintains composer over dips and ridges at speed.

all in all it should have come that way.
did the endlink upgrade (KB-017-08) Nice part... while not as big of a difference as the bar alone, a very big improvement over stock none the less.
 

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I just ordered my sways. are those endlinks just for the front or rear? or both?>
I believe the front and rear are different, so make sure you get the right ones... (front is shorter I think).
 

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anyone want to give me the links for both front and back? so i dont end up buying the wrong ones :)
 

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Did this on my 2010 Crosstour EXL/Navi AWD about 3 weeks ago. As soon as I took the first turn I could tell a big difference in the handling, though I didn't think the handling was bad before. That little bit of lift you get in the back of the car going through corners gets tightened up a lot with the thicker sway bar.

I think it is a must have mod, Thanks for the post!
 

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I did this mod a few weeks ago. Here are a few notes:

1) Lay out your new sway bar beneath the old one. You can then easily see which way it goes. This helps avoid installing it backwards.

2) If you are using a lift, you can install the sway bar by just removing the right rear wheel. Doing this on a lift is super easy!

I noticed a little better feel going fast around corners, but I really don't drive my CT aggressive enough to really notice any daily difference.
 

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The most notable differences come when you change highways via a circular off-ramp.

Without the Mod, you will easily go towards the outside,.

Without the Mod, you will Definitely go towards the outside, when pressing even a little more gas.

With the Mod, you will stay on the proper line...

The only thing I'd note if people drive more aggressive is that beware as you get out of the turn, as additional gas there will require a quick turn back (to straighten the wheel).
 

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sway bar mod

everyone who commented on this mod was correct . turning off highways on to a circular
ramp was where i noticed the biggest difference

did mine last Friday

next is struts and shocks anyone check these out yet,----- i found 2012 CT from KYB, dont know if they will fit my 2015--????

Really could use some help here

tks

Bob F
 

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Yes, 2010-12 = 2013-15 Suspension Parts...
Also, as far as Struts goes, they are the same fit for all 2012 Accord / TLs
(But of course the CT is up to 600lbs heavier).

BTW: I've seen those before, but wouldn't necessarily go for them only because there's no matching rear struts...?

Don't know if you intend to lower them or anything...


everyone who commented on this mod was correct . turning off highways on to a circular
ramp was where i noticed the biggest difference

did mine last Friday

next is struts and shocks anyone check these out yet,----- i found 2012 CT from KYB, dont know if they will fit my 2015--????

Really could use some help here

tks

Bob F
 

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All things come with a price or a trade off when changing the rear sway bar away from stock OEM. Make your decision carefully.

In checking the Accord forum, there have been many that changed their Accord rear sway bar with the Acura bar and also had the bar touching the frame in two places, even though it caused no problem or noise. Others on the Accord forum went for a different sway bar manufactured by Progressive Auto. Progressive states their bar fits the 09-13 Acura TSX and the 08-13 Honda Accord. People on the Accord forum say this is a much better fit, bent just slightly different and does not hit the frame like the Acura bar. Besides that, this bar is 22mm (the Acura bar is 20mm) and has two adjustments for ride control.

The price is $174.25, but right now they have a 20% off sale. Who ever heard of a sale on rear sway bars? Either way, that puts this bar very close in price to the Acura sway bar. Anyway, they have great instructions right on their web site with lots of pictures. This bar comes highly recommended by the high performance people on the Accord forum. Looks like a very easy install.
Their website is at: http://progressauto.com/products/sfID1/12/sfID2/34/sfID3/90/productID/615

Keep in mind that changing from a stock 17mm sway bar to anything bigger WILL cause your vehicle to ride harsher (the thicker the bar the harsher the ride) over bumps. You need to decide the balance of harsh ride to cornering that you want. Personally, I don’t race, street race, and only rarely push my CT hard; and therefore cannot justify changing the sway bar and risk comfort. If I was a teenager, heck the sway bars would have been changed out the first week. Yes, there is a Heavy Duty sway bar replacement for the front too.

Either way, you have your choice of the Acura or Progressive (above) sway bars for your CT. A thicker rear sway bar will give you better high performance handling from your CT, but for everyday driving, you really won’t notice the change in the sway bar. Also remember for us old folks, the thicker the sway bar the harsher the ride.


I have to agree with this post. I did the change out to an Acura sway bar. I noticed that some bumps are harsher with the Acura bar. I was on the fence for days but I am going back to the original bar. I almost seems that the Acura bar slightly lowers the rear end. It seems like the rear shocks don't have the full vertical movement with the Acura bar, thus certain bumps are harsher.

I will say this though. Had I not upgraded my tires to Pirelli's, I would probably keep it on.

So if anyone is looking for a deal on the Acura sway bar, hit me up via pm.
 

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Will this upgrade work with my 2015 4cyl, not AWD?

I'm coming from a 2000 Accord Coupe and the handling is a bit squishy to me.
 

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Acura Sway Bar

I bought the Acura rear, anti-sway bar. Got it, plus the bushings, from Honda Parts Unlimited for $60, including shipping!

I don't like the handling as it is. I am coming from a BMW X3, which, despite all its faults, went through curves beautifully. The Crosstour body rolls dramatically, and it understeers a lot. I'm hoping the new bar will improve things. If not, I don't know - struts, maybe?
 

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The Crosstour body rolls dramatically, and it understeers a lot. I'm hoping the new bar will improve things. If not, I don't know - struts, maybe?
The Crosstour sits up pretty high. High cars do tend to have more body roll. Unless you want to redesign this vehicle by lowering it and such, this is pretty much a characteristic of the stock vehicle.

I purchased my CT for snow, ice and dirt roads. It does great for that. I wanted a vehicle with high clearance to avoid the high snow and pot holes. Not everyone purchases a CT for this same purpose.
 

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jviss,

Speaking from experience, the RSB will not fight roll all that much.
The notable advantage with the RSB Upgrade is that it will increase the limit of hard cornering before it starts to under steer.

To reduce Roll, you're going to have to mess with springs...
A Coilover setup was way too rough for me, especially with 20" rims, so I went with stiffened custom made springs.

http://coilsprings.com/

Increase Spring Rates as follows (at Stock Ride Height):
+15% F / +20% Rear = Sportier, but not like Coilovers
+20% F / +20% Rear = Similar Body Roll as Coilovers, but slower & smoother initiation of turn input... (You'll turn the steering wheel, and there's even though you feel the car shift, there's a split second before the tires hook, and when they do, you're golden)
+20% F / +25% Rear = Same as above, virtually no notable difference, just better for hauling stuff in the trunk, but changes acceleration characteristics.
 

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This will cover removing the 2011 Crosstour AWD rear sway bar and replacing it with one from a 2011 Acura TL AWD. I believe this will work on Crosstour's 2010-2012, 2WD and AWD, I completed this on my own 2011 Crosstour AWD.

2011 Crosstour AWD rear sway bar size is 15MM:


2011 Acura TL AWD rear sway bar is 20MM:


Parts and tools needed to complete the job:
Acura TL AWD rear sway bar P/N 52300-TK5-A02
Acura TL AWD rear sway bar bushings P/N 52306-TK5-A01 x2
14MM wrench
5MM allen wrench
12MM socket
silicone grease

Start cleaning the threads of the endlinks. Then place 14mm wrench onto endlink bolt, then insert 5mm endlink stud and remove nut from endlink.


Slide endlink stud out of rear sway bar and repeat on the other side.


Using 12mm socket to reach the 4 bolts, 2 per side, holding the d-link brackets/rear sway bar bushings and loosen them, I left mine in the bracket and let the swat bar drop, then moved to the other side.


Now remove the swaybar, it took a little rotating, but it comes out without having to remove anything, I didn't even jack up the car.

Rear sway bars side by side comparison:


Install new rear sway bar bushings onto new rear sway bar, I used a dab of silicone grease on each one to make sure it doesn't squeak. Make sure to install the new bushings in the same direction and orientation as the old one, making note of the factory cut opening.

Next slide the new rear sway bar in place, slide the d-link brackets over the rear sway bar bushings and attach it using the 4 12mm bolts, torque to OEM specs.


Now reattach the endlinks and torque to OEM specs.



That's it, you're done. The total cost of this upgrade was:
Parts $75.44
Shipping $10.95
Total $86.39

Car feels much better on the road and in corners, this was my major complaint and I believe the car should have come with this bigger rear sway bar from the factory.

Hope this helps somebody out.

Tim
I know this old post, hopefully someone reads it.
Does your TL sway bar come close to the rubber brake line fixed to the car.Closer than the stock. With the suspension travel, does it hit or run the brake line that noticed? Or is it better to install the TL sway bar upside down?

anyone with this mod, thoughts?
 
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