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2012 Honda Crosstour EX-L AWD V6
After an oil change at dealer, I found that the oil level is far above the upper line from the engine oil dipstick. I drain total 1 qt from the dipstick hole to bring the oil back to the upper level.

Video:
(the oil I drain out is so dark, which means the dealer didn't completely drain the old oil out before putting new in... :( )

Few days later, I change the oil myself again to make sure the correct amount of oil is in the engine. I drain the oil till the last drop out, also change a new oil filter. Put 4.5 qts in as the manual asking. Than run the engine till hot. turn off engine, wait 3 mins than check the dipstick.
( lxxxxxl RCA )===============
This time I'm sure the oil I put in is 4.5qts, but the oil level is above the "A" word. Confirmed with Honda that the dipstick should be 511.5mm from the dipstick entry hole to the lower line, so mine is fine. I found out Honda use the part "15650-RCA-A02" to every V6 cars: Accord V6 Pilot Odyssey Acura TL MDX TSX... I believe this is the reason that the dipstick is not telling owner the correct reading and Honda should recall for this problem.
What do you think?

Now the upper line shows 3.5 qt, the "A" word shows 4.5 qt.
This is against the owner manual at page 288 ( It should be between the upper and the lower marks)
and page 333 (Do not fill above the upper mark; you could damage the engine)
What is your reading and what do you think?
 

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I would never blindly fill an engine with the capacity listed in the manual per the capacities section.

Sometimes oil can remain at the bottom of the pan and takes a while to drain out depending upon the angle the front is listed, etc...
 

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I know this is an old thread; is anyone still interested in this topic?

I'm curious. I just purchased a 2013 CT EX-L V6 FWD, and the dealer (Acura) changed the oil as part of their previously-owned sales protocol. I just checked, after 1,700 miles, with the car sitting about an hour after it was run, and the oil level is way over the high mark, it's about at the "A" per the dipstick representation below:

( lxxxxxl RCA )===============

Should I check again, after letting it sit only 3 minutes?

Should I drain some oil, to bring it back to the top mark?

(I have an oil change pump system, so I can insert a tube into the dipstick tube and suck out some oil).

Any idea on what volume per gradation on the stick?

Thanks very much,

jv
 

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Keep in mind that the oil change technicians as most dealerships are the low man on the totem pole. You don't need to be a master tech to change oil all day. Shops normally pay their oil change tech much less than the other techs. At the dealership I worked at we paid the oil change tech minimum wage plus an extra $1 for each oil change and $2 for tran/radiator/differential change. Are these oil change techs working as fast as they can and never going back to recheck the oil? Most likely. Sometimes going by the book does not always cut it. You should always go back and check the oil on the stick and also check for leaks. Yep, more than once the oil change tech didn't tighten the oil filter or something else.

As for your question about should you suck some oil out? I would say that a 1/2 quart is not going to cavitate and cause air in the oil. But make this a lesson learned, to change your own oil next time!!
 

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Thanks for the reply. This dealer was a pretty small Acura dealer; I didn't get the impression that they had a guy just doing oil changes, but who knows?

I think I'll suck some oil out. Maybe I'll send out some of it for analysis, to establish a baseline.

And yes, while I've wanted to use the dealer for oil changes, it irks me that I can't be sure what oil they are using, or that they are doing it correctly. Who knows if they even use a new plug washer?

I haven't taken a close look yet; how difficult is it to get at the filter? Is it horizontal or vertical?

Thanks,

jv
 

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Most all dealerships have a dedicated oil change guy because once you get oil on you, you can't being doing much else around the car without getting oil or grease on the customers car, which is a big No No.

The filter is very easy to get to especially if you take off the right front tire. I assume you might be rotating tires at the same time. Here is a link to a Honda Accord with a 3.5 liter engine showing an oil change. Same for the Crosstour.


If you do it yourself, don't forget to get a Gold Plug (magnetic Drain Plug).
 

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I know everyone wants/hopes the dealer techs are good, and you can just pick up your car and drive away. DO NOT DO THIS!
Pop the hood, look around, check caps, check the fluids, look under the car while running. Then go in and sign off.
I have been screwed over SO many time by those IDIOTS.
They tried to sucker my wife into a full valve adjustment on her Pilot with 68k,, the gas cap was loose!
They sent her away another time with no fluid in the tranny. She took it back, some dipshhit came out checked the oil,, not the tranny, said it was fine and sent her home. I took it back and had a lovely talk with the person who did this. Managers were coming out of the woodwork, I was a little upset to say the least.
Got a new car years ago, and the hood liner was torn. They ordered one and when I picked it up the new one was torn during install and all the water spray line were broken and hanging under the hood.
I got to drive the managers car home that time.
 

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OMG Where do you live?! What dealer is this?!

I know everyone wants/hopes the dealer techs are good, and you can just pick up your car and drive away. DO NOT DO THIS!
Pop the hood, look around, check caps, check the fluids, look under the car while running. Then go in and sign off.
I have been screwed over SO many time by those IDIOTS.
They tried to sucker my wife into a full valve adjustment on her Pilot with 68k,, the gas cap was loose!
They sent her away another time with no fluid in the tranny. She took it back, some dipshhit came out checked the oil,, not the tranny, said it was fine and sent her home. I took it back and had a lovely talk with the person who did this. Managers were coming out of the woodwork, I was a little upset to say the least.
Got a new car years ago, and the hood liner was torn. They ordered one and when I picked it up the new one was torn during install and all the water spray line were broken and hanging under the hood.
I got to drive the managers car home that time.
 

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Southeastern Honda Melbourne Fl. I live near Orlando, with lots of dealers. With a constant coverage on TV about how you should come , the short drive to save money.. Not true, i've tried.. so I've been stuck with my local dealer for 3 cars.
When you want to keep the full warrenty,,, your stuck taking it to the dealer for a while.
 

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When you want to keep the full warrenty,,, your stuck taking it to the dealer for a while.
That is not true... you or a private garage are allowed to service your own car. If ever there is a warranty claim, if they wish to deny it for lack of service they have to prove it. It is even stated in the manual... they recommend the dealer, but go as far as stating that it is not a requirement.


Thing is the original post in this thread has me concerned, anyone else? I use the marks on the dip stick too. If the high mark is a quart low that is a big issue... I usually go through about a half a quart between changes, but now my checks may be off. I am going to pay extra attention to the fill process. My normal process is to add oil until the stick reads full... 5 quart jug and funnel. And, yes, I crank it when almost done to make sure the filter is filled.
 

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This warranty issue has been discussed in other threads in this forum. There's a federal law, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975, that prevents requiring you to use their service, their filters, their oil, and so on, to retain the warranty.

Many dealers lie about this, some subtly, others more overtly. I know Yanmar, with their marine engines, were notorious for insisting their filters were required to maintain warranty coverage.

That said, you should use a good filter! Some are better than others. There is a guy online doing autopsies and detailing the construction (link below), and also (as I recall) pointing out that many filters failed to bypass early in their lives. My recollection is that Framm are to be avoided, and Wix were good. Wix makes private label filters for many manufacturers. I think they make many NAPA filters. With a little research you can usually determine who's making who's filters.

Further, Honda OEM filters are not too expensive, so no big deal with them. You can get a 5-pack for $35 on Amazon Prime, so $7.00 each. A NAPA Gold filter for this engine is $6.75. Maybe some can research who makes Honda filters?

If you want to go full-Obsessive-Compulsive on this topic, you need these two sites:

Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG):

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

Oil Filters Revealed:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html
 
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