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Ok, driving the other day and my engine light came on. I noticed the eco light was not coming on. I took it to a repair shop and they said it was a cylinder deactivation issue. They came up with a CQ rocker arm oil pressure switch

Has anyone had this issues or something similar? :confused:
 

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Ok, driving the other day and my engine light came on. I noticed the eco light was not coming on. I took it to a repair shop and they said it was a cylinder deactivation issue. They came up with a CQ rocker arm oil pressure switch

Has anyone had this issues or something similar? :confused:
Nope... strange; thanks for the info : /
 

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You have two Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoids. One for Bank 1 and the other for bank 2. There is a complicated diagnostic procedure where you would attach a special tool to the front rocker arm oil control valve and then attach the front rocker arm oil pressure switch to an oil pressure gauge and then with a Honda OBDII Scan Tool and then do the VPS test while checking the oil pressure on the gauge. Actually, for what these solenoids probably cost, you might be better off just replacing them and ‘hope’ you fixed the problem. The solenoids are relatively easy to replace.

To replace you basically:
1) Remove the engine top cover
2) Disconnect the front rocker arm oil pressure switch connector
3) Remove the front rocker arm oil pressure switch
4) Install new part in reverse order making sure to use a new O-ring.
5) Do the same procedure for the rear rocker arm oil pressure switch.

I would wonder, that since this is not a common problem with this engine, have you been following a normal oil change routine? What oil do you use? Do you change the oil yourself or go to Jiffy Lube and believe they are using synthetic oil? Do you follow the maintenance minder for oil changes? How many miles do you normally go before changing your oil? How many miles on your CT right now? What was the specific DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) did they read?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It cleared it's self and went back to normal operation, in another words the car started to go into cylinder deactivation.
I'm guessing a spark plug missed fired. Puzzling because I just had the plugs replaced with the timing belt.

Yes, I do all the normal maintenance on regular intervals.
 

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To answer your question: Yes

You might check into a product called VCMuzzler II. It will cause your vehicle to run ALL cylinders ALL the time. No more cylinder deactivation. You can Google it and find all sorts of reviews. I can’t really recommend it as I feel it is in violation of the Clean Air Act and lends itself to tampering with the emission system of the car.
 

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not available on Amazon
I use S-VCM.
It's not illegal to use.
What I do caution about using it, is to make sure the cooling system is in good condition. The cooling fans need to be working properly. VCM disabling devices trick the computer that your engine is not warmed up. This prevents the VCM from being activated. S-VCM will not be the cause of a overheating condition or prevent you from knowing of such, but it does make diagnosing a cooling system problem with your OBD II scanner a little more difficult, since your engine temp is defaulted to 165.2°F. S-VCM is the reason my CT will make it to 300k miles, otherwise the VCM would have destroyed my engine by now.
 
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