[krausmc]

Warranty for "Judder"

I got a letter in the mail last week about this. Others did also. Check this thread

http://www.crosstourownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16081

 

[tmorriss]

The Bomber,

New to the Forum!!

Can you post a link to the TSB 16-066 regarding "Judder"? I'm having difficulty finding the source data to show my dealer...they're pushing back.

I'm having the same issue...judder/flutter, minor power surges from zero to 45 MPH.

I have a 2013 2WD with 45K miles.

Thanks!

 

[NeilLinden]

Crosstour Shudder issue SOLVED

This will be of great interest if it has not already been solved. I would be shocked if this information is not readily available about the Honda Crosstour shudder.

I purchased a used 2013 Crosstour EXL 6 cyl 4WD in mid 2015.

I noticed a shudder accelerating around 25-35 mph after having the car a few days.
I mentioned it to the service adviser at the dealership (Bill Pearce Honda in Reno, NV 775 789-7999)). Initially he said he was completely unaware of such an issue.

A week later, however, when I was back for something else, he told me he found the service bulletin regarding that EXACT issue and that Honda was aware of a driveshaft problem on the Crosstour. My car had 42K miles but they replaced both axles N/C on Nov. 30, 2015 and the problem was completely solved. It drove so much better I could not believe it.

They should be able to look up the issue and find the bulletin for you.
I no longer own the vehicle (for unrelated reasons) but the service guy's name is Randy, my service invoice was 405986 and it was Bill Pearce Courtesy Honda in Reno, NV. (I would be glad to get anyone my VIN if necessary.)

 

[Guest]

Had the same problem with my 2012 Crosstour V6 4WD.

They said the torque converter was bad-- changed it but the 'flutter/judder' was still there.

They said the drivers side axle was bad-- changed it but the 'flutter/judder' was still there.

They said the center axle was bad-- changed it but the 'flutter/judder' was still there.

Finally they changed the right side axle and all is well, smooth as silk again.

My car has 94,000 miles on it, but had the extended warranty to 100,000 miles so all the work was 'no charge'.

 

[MarnieVan]

Shudder at low speed

Hello,
I have a 2010 Crosstour and it does the same shudder/vibration thing between 20-25 MPG. I bought it used. The records show that the rotors had been resurfaces twice. My thought was is came from an area where they have snow and maybe the salt on the road caused an issue. Now I am wondering if the previous owner had the same issue. It is not consistent. Does Honda know the cause or am I going to need to pour money into the car?

 

[HondaCrTour2010]

I was tormented with this problem for several years and found a solution. In my case, it had nothing to do with axis, tires, or brakes problems. The problem was solved by replacing Oil Pressure Switch # 37240-R70-A04. Good luck to all! Ready to answer any questions.

 

[edubfromktown]

I was tormented with this problem for several years and found a solution. In my case, it had nothing to do with axis, tires, or brakes problems. The problem was solved by replacing Oil Pressure Switch # 37240-R70-A04. Good luck to all! Ready to answer any questions.

Wow- that's something to keep in mind!

Thanks for posting about it.

 

[TyroneT]

Have heard of this, and told it is normal, but haven't experienced it. Possibly try different tires/tread pattern.

 

[Pretzel_Logic]

I was tormented with this problem for several years and found a solution. In my case, it had nothing to do with axis, tires, or brakes problems. The problem was solved by replacing Oil Pressure Switch # 37240-R70-A04. Good luck to all! Ready to answer any questions.

I just recently bought a 2010 and mine occasionally also has the 20-25 mph shudder. That oil pressure switch is a $10.00 part from Honda parts direct, worth a try for that price. I don't see how the oil pressure switch would cause that problem, seems more like a transmission issue but if it works for one person it might work for another.

 

[HondaCrTour2010]

You are absolutely right - what works for one may work for another. But there is still a connection between the shudder and the sensor's work. It works like this. Jitter is the result of the ECU working when it receives different readings from two oil pressure sensors (ideally, they should be the same and be in a certain range). The ECU decides to turn on the VCM system and deactivate one or more cylinders in these driving conditions or to completely turn off the system and go into emergency engine operation. This is simplified, there are much more conditions and sensors involved in this process, but these oil pressure sensors play a role in this orchestra. During operation, these sensors may fail partially or completely and may give incorrect values ​​and their replacement, simply returns the state of the system to its original position. For those who want to check their effect on the VCM system, you can disconnect the contact from any of the sensors and the engine will go into emergency operation mode and you will receive an error code about incorrect operation and deactivation of the VCM system. We cannot rewrite the control algorithms of the ECU, but we can influence its operation in this way. Thus, for me, this problem is caused by an attempt to turn off one or more cylinders at this moment on the basis of incorrect readings of the oil pressure sensors, which causes jitter. Indeed, with more aggressive acceleration or a greater load on the engine, this does not happen. I am not a developer of codes for Honda and this is just my personal opinion.

 

[2005 Accord]

7/11/2020:

I have been fighting the same problem for a year. I have a 2005 Accord 4cyl AT (85k miles) that would vibrate under light acceleration at 22 mph. Could feel the vibration in the steering wheel and floor.

The good news is that I finally got it resolved and since there are very few posts (none that I could find) of an actual solution to this problem, figured I would add mine.

The car has good new balanced tires, new struts, new wheel bearings, new stabilizer bar links, new brakes/rotors, new aftermarket axles and a fresh transmission service. Yet, the vibration still persisted.

I was down to having to throwing engine and transmission mounts at the problem but didn't want to do that since I can't see anything wrong with them and I'm tired of putting $$ into this car.

I got to thinking that maybe there was an issue with the transmission. When I had the transmission serviced at Honda, I asked them to replace the fluid and filters. They replaced the fluid but said the filter wasn't a service item and they don't replace those. I thought that was strange since it's just an inline canister filter that sits between the air box and the engine (mounted to top of trans), easy to get to and inexpensive.

Anyway, I decided to replace the filter myself since it was cheap and 15 years old at this point. THIS SOLVED THE VIBRATION PROBLEM!!!!

Hope this helps someone.

 

[NailGrease]

7/11/2020:

I have been fighting the same problem for a year. I have a 2005 Accord 4cyl AT (85k miles) that would vibrate under light acceleration at 22 mph. Could feel the vibration in the steering wheel and floor.

The good news is that I finally got it resolved and since there are very few posts (none that I could find) of an actual solution to this problem, figured I would add mine.

The car has good new balanced tires, new struts, new wheel bearings, new stabilizer bar links, new brakes/rotors, new aftermarket axles and a fresh transmission service. Yet, the vibration still persisted.

I was down to having to throwing engine and transmission mounts at the problem but didn't want to do that since I can't see anything wrong with them and I'm tired of putting $$ into this car.

I got to thinking that maybe there was an issue with the transmission. When I had the transmission serviced at Honda, I asked them to replace the fluid and filters. They replaced the fluid but said the filter wasn't a service item and they don't replace those. I thought that was strange since it's just an inline canister filter that sits between the air box and the engine (mounted to top of trans), easy to get to and inexpensive.

Anyway, I decided to replace the filter myself since it was cheap and 15 years old at this point. THIS SOLVED THE VIBRATION PROBLEM!!!!

Hope this helps someone.

If you own a 2010-2012 Crosstour V6, the ATF filter is internal, only serviceable if you unbolt the transmission from the engine. I found this out after I bought the filter from Rockauto for $10 or so, several years ago. It was going to cost $6 to return it, so I kept it. I take it out to play with every now and then. I get bored and stick it back in the box.
¯\(ツ)/¯

 

[Amanda A]

Hello! As far as I can tell, I have the highest miles on my 2012 CT 4 cyl.

I bought mine used at 16k in 2015. I did a bunch of road trips across the country and Canada while finishing up my undergrad! I also drove for Uber/Lyft for 2 years off/on.

Today, I have 150, 300. I would say about 300 miles ago I noticed a few issues. The first was the shudder/judder... Mine only seems to happen at 2000rpms/40mph..

Then I started having horribly scary cold starts coughs/shudders.

Finally, I noticed I was getting absolutely horrible mpg!!!

Before finding everything here.. I took it to a mechanic who replaced all spark plugs, coils and flushed my transmission twice. $950. No go. We had hoped that would correct my cold start/mpg issues.

Took it to the Honda dealership after finding these threads. From everything I could tell about cold starts, it was the VTC actuator. They replaced it and gave me a valve adjustment. $1000.

Before going back for more work, I am waiting to see how things go a little. My shudders when driving happen at 40mph and for now, I don't drive far and make sure to take the long way, avoiding hills/hwy. I got 31mpg driving real slow around town today (city). Although I've noticed I always get super great gas mileage filling up before hitting 3/4 tank. Seems like the valve adjustment and possible combo of new vtc actuator/spark plugs/etc helped solve that. So far (day 1), no cold start issues. Although I have noticed a lot more shaking while at red lights. Oddly turning the wheel left or right stops the shaking I mostly feel in the wheel and instead I feel it in my feet.

I love my car more than anything and have always taken care of him best a girl knows how... pay for all oil changes/flush's/etc...

Now... I'm trying to figure out this shudder issue. I have a feeling it's the axle's from what I've read. I see a common issue with cv joints and axles and I guess my best bet would be to get it all done? I was suggested to do the whole front.. for $1200. Aftermarket would be about $300.

I couldn't find anyone posting about using aftermarket parts for the axle because most people are covered under the warranty or still have low mileage and the expense would def be worth the risk.

Any updates on the shudders? Most people seem to post having issues around 22mph.. I get mine almost exactly at 40mph and 2000-2500 rpms.

Any and all advice incredibly appreciated!

Had the same problem with my 2012 Crosstour V6 4WD.

They said the torque converter was bad-- changed it but the 'flutter/judder' was still there.

They said the drivers side axle was bad-- changed it but the 'flutter/judder' was still there.

They said the center axle was bad-- changed it but the 'flutter/judder' was still there.

Finally they changed the right side axle and all is well, smooth as silk again.

My car has 94,000 miles on it, but had the extended warranty to 100,000 miles so all the work was 'no charge'.

 

[NailGrease]

Hello! As far as I can tell, I have the highest miles on my 2012 CT 4 cyl.

I bought mine used at 16k in 2015. I did a bunch of road trips across the country and Canada while finishing up my undergrad! I also drove for Uber/Lyft for 2 years off/on.

Today, I have 150, 300. I would say about 300 miles ago I noticed a few issues. The first was the shudder/judder... Mine only seems to happen at 2000rpms/40mph..

Then I started having horribly scary cold starts coughs/shudders.

Finally, I noticed I was getting absolutely horrible mpg!!!

Before finding everything here.. I took it to a mechanic who replaced all spark plugs, coils and flushed my transmission twice. $950. No go. We had hoped that would correct my cold start/mpg issues.

Took it to the Honda dealership after finding these threads. From everything I could tell about cold starts, it was the VTC actuator. They replaced it and gave me a valve adjustment. $1000.

Before going back for more work, I am waiting to see how things go a little. My shudders when driving happen at 40mph and for now, I don't drive far and make sure to take the long way, avoiding hills/hwy. I got 31mpg driving real slow around town today (city). Although I've noticed I always get super great gas mileage filling up before hitting 3/4 tank. Seems like the valve adjustment and possible combo of new vtc actuator/spark plugs/etc helped solve that. So far (day 1), no cold start issues. Although I have noticed a lot more shaking while at red lights. Oddly turning the wheel left or right stops the shaking I mostly feel in the wheel and instead I feel it in my feet.

I love my car more than anything and have always taken care of him best a girl knows how... pay for all oil changes/flush's/etc...

Now... I'm trying to figure out this shudder issue. I have a feeling it's the axle's from what I've read. I see a common issue with cv joints and axles and I guess my best bet would be to get it all done? I was suggested to do the whole front.. for $1200. Aftermarket would be about $300.

I couldn't find anyone posting about using aftermarket parts for the axle because most people are covered under the warranty or still have low mileage and the expense would def be worth the risk.

Any updates on the shudders? Most people seem to post having issues around 22mph.. I get mine almost exactly at 40mph and 2000-2500 rpms.

Any and all advice incredibly appreciated!

ATF flushes fir the judder usually solves this. I know I catch alot of flack for my recommendation on othe Honda forums, but Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF solves this problem for me. $18 a gallon at Wal-Mart.
One of the most ignored part for tune ups on new Hondas is the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) If you have low rpm idle issues, its likely the MAF is dirty. Simply remove it, spray the electrodes off (short bursts) with CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner. Let dry completely, then reinstall. Make sure the air intake hose is crack free and the hose is clamped on tight. Other things of importance is a clean air filter, use an 87 octane Top Tier fuel. If you buy unbranded fuel, treat with fuel system cleaner. If you do a lot of city street driving, some long periods of highway driving may be helpful.
Worn CV axles will cause vibration of you front end. It can feel like a tire out of ballance. You may fell a warbler when accelerating in a turn. To test these, go to an open space and at full wheel lock, drive in a circle, left, then right. Does the car warble? Do you hear a pop noise? I do not recommend aftermarket CV axles. I've had success with rebuilt.

 

[how2do49]

I have a 2012 Crosstour got it new it only has 66k I have the same shudder and vibration at crousing with light gas throttle I put new tires,all new brakes,4 wheel bearings,4cv axles,new driveshaft,and a new jack shaft bearing it’s still got the problem. What the hell is going on HONDA!!!!!! Give me a fxxking break this is very costly