Honda Crosstour Forums banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 CT and it has started to have brake Judder

Steering Wheel vibration at 70 mph,are there any TSB,s or recalls with this prob?:mad:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
805 Posts
Steering wheel vibration can be caused by numerous things.

A few quick questions:
1) Is there any vibration at any other speed?
2) Have you had any recent repairs or maintenances such as:
a) alignment
b) tire rotation
c) accident repair
3) What is the mileage on the vehicle, and are these the original tires?
4) Any wheel damage, perhaps from a pothole or curb? On any of the wheels?
5) Any recent brake work? Brake pad replacement? Rotors turned?
6) Does the brake judder happen with light pedal pressure or hard pedal pressure?
7) Is there any signs of brake judder at any other speed or just 70 mph?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
CM - what is that, a 24 point font? :) You're taking up practically the whole screen on my 15" MacBook! :p



But uh, yes in line with CM, my questions would be: clarify if this "brake shudder" and "steering wheel vibrations" are one in the same issue or not. See the recent thread on vibration/judder (not that it was resolved, as of yet I think) but that poster did a really detailed job explaining the circumstances of his malady, pretty much what CM's questions are drilling down on.

And no, no TSBs on anything related to steering, brakes, or judder.

-ace
(going to ice my scrolling fingers)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
805 Posts
One day all you whippersnappers will need the larger print too. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
One day all you whippersnappers will need the larger print too. :)
I'm just giving you a hard time. . .last year I was trying to read the ingredients or instructions or something on a box and without even thinking about it, and for the first time in my life, I had to lift up my glasses and squint in order to read it. When I realized what had just happened I gasped (with what was no doubt one of few remaining breaths).

One of the features I use on my MacBook almost every day (mostly to look closer at technical diagrams and stuff, not dirty pictures, I sware) is its built in zoom. . .I just hold the ctrl button and move my fingers to zoom in on what I want on the track pad, it's great.


-ace
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
2010 Honda CT brake judder

Steering wheel vibration can be caused by numerous things.

A few quick questions:
1) Is there any vibration at any other speed? no
2) Have you had any recent repairs or maintenances such as:
a) alignment/ no
b) tire rotation/ yes at 6000 and 12000
c) accident repair/ no
3) What is the mileage on the vehicle, and are these the original tires? /15000
4) Any wheel damage, perhaps from a pothole or curb? On any of the wheels? /no
5) Any recent brake work? Brake pad replacement? Rotors turned? /no and no
6) Does the brake judder happen with light pedal pressure or hard pedal pressure? /light
7) Is there any signs of brake judder at any other speed or just 70 mph?/no
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
I have an adjunct question - you say it only happens with light pressure at about 70mph, right? What happens if you were to give it heavier brake pressure at that speed, does it go away?

Have you brought it to your dealer to look at this yet? First things that come to mind are: loose/bad fitting brake pads (or shims that help hold them in), or rotors that need to be re-surfaced

Sometimes the symptom you described can be explained by: not vibrating at low speeds due to rotor not spinning fast enough to incur this specific vibration; vibration goes away with heavy brake pedal because it's clamping down so hard that the pads & shims have no room to vibrate, and the rotor is being squeezed hard enough on both sides that it can't vibrate any more.

Not saying that's it for sure, but, if those are the symptoms you're seeing, there's a fair to midland chance. . .

-ace
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
805 Posts
I would concur with Aceman. This does sound more like a brake rotor problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have an adjunct question - you say it only happens with light pressure at about 70mph, right? What happens if you were to give it heavier brake pressure at that speed, does it go away?

Have you brought it to your dealer to look at this yet? First things that come to mind are: loose/bad fitting brake pads (or shims that help hold them in), or rotors that need to be re-surfaced

Sometimes the symptom you described can be explained by: not vibrating at low speeds due to rotor not spinning fast enough to incur this specific vibration; vibration goes away with heavy brake pedal because it's clamping down so hard that the pads & shims have no room to vibrate, and the rotor is being squeezed hard enough on both sides that it can't vibrate any more.

Not saying that's it for sure, but, if those are the symptoms you're seeing, there's a fair to midland chance. . .

-ace
Took the CT into the dealer and they said rotors were warped.

BUT Honda will only warranty until 12000 miles so they wanted to charge for turning the rotors at 15600 miles. i told them no thanks besides it probably only happen even more so . I will have to go aftermarket rotors,maybe EBC or DBA any recommendations?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Check out this article. . .a lot of great info on brakes and rotor diagnosis & break in, etc.

It's from StopTech, they make big brake kits.

OEM front rotors are about $76 ea @ Bernardi p/n 45251-SXS-A00. Tire Rack has some pretty good looking OEM replacement ones for $56 ea.

If you're going to be changing out the front rotors, a new set of pads at Bernardi is only $45 while you're in there (and according to that article there were probably uneven clamping forces in play with pad on rotor). . .I think if you follow that good break in procedure you'll be set for awhile. Oh and also torque everything down with a torque wrench.

-ace
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I know its been a while since you posted this...but what's the update with your brakes? I had the same issue. We fought tooth and nail w/ the dealer...first they tried to tell me I was braking too hard- I have an 85 mile daily round trip, mostly highway,not alot of braking. Anyway. Finally they did fix them- cut the rotors-however, now @ 40k miles our 2012 CT is AGAIN having the same damn problem... My other half sez the brakes must be undersized for the weight of the car, and we need to upgrade. Will be looking further on here for suggestions....what did you do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
It would seem to me that warped rotors could or would happen more frequently if they overheated due to heavy breaking. It this is true, rotors which have been turned down would be thinner and might warp more easily. Does this make sense to anyone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
I've been giving thought to other causes for rotors to warp and have come up with several possibilities:
a. poor design by the manufacturer. This would be systemic and most of the cars with that design of brake rotor would warp easily.
b. inappropriate alloy in the material used to manufacture the rotor.
c. a caliper that is "hanging up" and causing the pad to be in abnormally frequent if not constant contact with the rotor. Check for excessive wear on the pads, or since you bought a previously used vehicle, check for new pads replaced due to excessive wear.
d. a lot of "in town" driving. Again check for excessive wear or replace pads.
e. a driver who habitually "rides the breaks". Again, check the pads for excessive wear or replaced pads.

Have you already resolved the problem? Just curious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
So I replaced my front brakes recently and have been very happy with the results. I would recommend replacing the rotors and pads with something a little more robust. I used Centric Rotors and Pads for my install. You can pick them up for a great price on ebay and amazon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
I just had this same issue and the honda dealer said that the rotors were warped. So i had them re-surfaced and new pads and the jutter is gone. My car only has 25K and to me this seems too young, though i just bought the car and only put 1000 miles on it so many the past owner was hard on them?? My previous car was a chevy trailblazer and i bought it brand new and the brakes and rotors were still in good shape and they had 80K on them. I hope this is not an issue that wil continue, otherwise so far i love my CT :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
I just had my rotors turned @ 9700 miles due to a lite judder in the front.

tech found my driver's side rotor to be a little "cooked" and with pad material transfer. No idea why the driver & not the passenger.

The THINNEST lathing made it right again.

My prev. car had this issue every 10k miles. i tried all types of rotors, and pads -- and in the end, I have to admit to myself that it's ME who is the culprit. :rolleyes:

Yes -- larger brake rotors could possibly make a difference, but in reality, its the way I "late" brake, and drive a bit too fast.
I'm 41 -- it's time to admit who and what I am! :D

gr
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Brake shudder started at 10k, dealer resurfaced rotors n/c under warranty, brake shudder at 15k, rotors replace at under warranty - no signs of riding brake or overheating, brake pulsating again at 22,5k, obviously poor material in rotors as brake linings show no signs of wear. Clean up un resurface rotors. Pads still not showing signs of wear. Brakes shudder and vibrate at speeds above 65mph. Dealer recommends replacing rotors and says pads are still good. Quotes $140.00 per rotor. I asked him if he thought the pad material was too hard for the rotor material. Honda engineers would never overlook something like that.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top