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Might be under factory warranty depending on mileage.
False alarm, I took the car to Sears and they ran a stress test and the battery had plenty of CCA and the guy told me no need to replace the battery. I guess I used the battery more than I thought on Sunday with out running the engine. I guess I had a DUH momnent
 

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Good to hear that your batter checked out OK, but mine just died on me last week. Was fine starting in the morning but wouldn't start after work. Jumped it and got home OK, but next morning same thing. No start. Took to dealer and sure enough bad battery. Replaced no charge under the battery 3yr warranty. All good for now but only 2 years on the battery seems odd. Perhaps just a fluke?
 

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Good to hear that your batter checked out OK, but mine just died on me last week. Was fine starting in the morning but wouldn't start after work. Jumped it and got home OK, but next morning same thing. No start. Took to dealer and sure enough bad battery. Replaced no charge under the battery 3yr warranty. All good for now but only 2 years on the battery seems odd. Perhaps just a fluke?
Could be a fluke. My kids have drained a car battery 3x so far (not the CT); either from running in to the garage to get something at night and forgetting to CLOSE THE DOOR or leaving interior lights on :(

The good news is the batteries charged back up and were fine for quite a while.
 

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Not a fluke

Good to hear that your batter checked out OK, but mine just died on me last week. Was fine starting in the morning but wouldn't start after work. Jumped it and got home OK, but next morning same thing. No start. Took to dealer and sure enough bad battery. Replaced no charge under the battery 3yr warranty. All good for now but only 2 years on the battery seems odd. Perhaps just a fluke?

My battery had a dead cell in it and it took me 2 visits to my Dealer for them to listen to me.
 

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Replaced battery about two weeks ago. Wife got stuck in town. She was waiting on the daughter at cheer-leading and there is a probability of lights being on, radio on, and yacking via blue tooth.

Would not crank more than a half turn, started right up with a jump.

took it in the next morning. My Honda guy replaced it, had system checked, everything ok. 30 months and 31k miles so no charge.

Living in Georgia I was surprised at 30 months. Lived in South Florida for 34 years and can't remember a battery making 3 years. The heat just eats them up.

As stated earlier, probably just a quirk.
 

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I just had a B1 service last week, car is at 40,000 miles. Rather annoyed at the dealership. Definately time to start DIY on all the basics again. Overpriced oil change / tire rotation fee, then harranged on about getting the rear differential fluid changed out - (notice the MM said B1, not B6) I asked why and the dealer just threw vague references at me as to "its recommended", I say - so your telling me that the computer is not functioning correctly and the a B6 should have been reported. He quickly backs down and says no, the computer is fine. I say.. so why are you recommending a differential fluid change... he just gives me some song and dance... I say - did you open it up and check the fluid and it looks bad / worn.. etc.. nope.. I then tell em to go away and just change the oil/filter and rotate the tires... of course he comes back ten minutes later.. with my air filters..... saying they are looking kinduve dirty and should be replaced. He quotes me some outlandish fee for doing this and I say... I'll Do it myself. sheesh frick'n idiots trying to nickle and dime you every step of the way.

Then... he comes back 15 minutes later saying that there is an issue with the battery... they are detecting some bad cells - that out of the 550 CCA it should have it is only getting 220 or something. Ok... why would the battery be bad at only 3 yrs.? I get.. "bad cells" ... of course the battery is out of warranty.. and isnt covered by the extended bumper to bumper warranty... (which I still don't understand considering the bumper is located between one bumper and the next. *shrugs*... )
So... $120 bucks for a new "honda" battery with 100 month warranty... plus the fees for the oil change/ filter - tire rotation... total just shy of $200... I'm out the door.... hopefully to never return.

The next day.. went to Advanced Auto... picked up two new air filters... had them installed in less than 15 minutes... and under 1/3 of the cost they wanted to charge me. Next up... doing my own differential fluid change...

----- So anyway... sorry to rant on bout the other stuff.... getting back to the battery... I was wondering if they is any relevance to leaving our lights on "Auto" all time... that it would have depleted or corrupted the battery cells? --- can't seem to recall where I read it.. but I know they recommend that if you are not using your vehicle for an extended amount of time... ie.. going on vacation.. then you should place your lights on the off position.... we use the vehicle everyday... So, I'm wondering still if there is any long term relevance to having them on the "auto" position???
 

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ooops.. correction ....

****(battery (not bumper) is located between one bumper and the next)
 

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Yea, my dealer wanted $120 for maintenance A 6,400 miles, so I asked him what they would do for that and he said they would check my battery, rotate tires and oil change. So I did oil only, $70 and they wrote on my service ticket that I did not do the authorized service like check the brakes for wear, fill the fluids. Pissed me off royally. I won't be returning to that place. My usual oil guy charges about $30 with fluids.
 

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Re: battery, one forum member reported that leaving the headlights on the "automatic" setting would wear the battery down early. I sure am glad that I have a good relationship with my dealer's service department. First oil change is on the dealer and then they may make suggestions, but for things like the air filters, they let me know that they are easily done and can be bought at an independent parts store for a lot less money than at the dealer. They also charge less for an oil change than Wally World.
 

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Defective battery!

Hi, new member here (see my post in the New Member Introduction forum). FYI just wanted to chime in that I'm also dealing with a defective battery. I've only owned my 2010 CT for a short while, and it only has about 20,000 miles, but the car has died on me TWICE while I was playing with the Nav system when the car was not running (Accessory mode). The first time I shrugged it off, thinking maybe the car had sat on the dealer's lot for a while and I hadn't driven it enough for a good charge. The second time took less than 10 minutes. My brother-in-law witnessed it and said the battery was defective.

The battery test light is GREEN, but somehow it's not holding a charge when the car isn't running (bad cells?). Starting and driving it everyday is NOT a problem - I just can't turn off the motor and run anything in Accessory mode for any length of time.

I do keep my headlights on AUTO, but I don't think this is the problem after researching forum posts. (If it is, it shouldn't be!)

The battery is still under the original warranty, so hopefully no problem when I take it back to the dealer and ask for a new battery free of charge. Now I know why the Carfax report had "battery charging system inspected" on it TWO TIMES. I thought it was just part of the usual "inspections" with an oil change, etc.
 

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I've had six Hondas and an Acura, four of which had the "auto" feature for the headlights. I love this feature and have used it since day one on every vehicle that I could. Never had any battery issues related to it. If that's a problem with the Crosstour, I'd say it's definitely a defect or some type of electronics issue.
 

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A car battery being drained and recharged by the alternator is normal it is what the battery is designed to do. Using auto lights setting does nothing different to your battery at all. Excessive heat is the number one reason batteries fail. Letting batteries set unused for a few months at a time is the number two reason for failure. Mechanics that don’t know how to test a battery ranks right up there with number 1 and number 2
 

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Battery 650 CCA vs 550 CCA

I just traded my 2008 Accord on a CT. I live in Canada and had battery problems with my Accord. The car would be dead if I didn't drive it for a couple of weeks. The problem went away when I purchased a battery with 650 CCA.

Before I purchased the CT I noticed that the battery had 550 CCA and asked the dealer to upgrade it to 650 CCA before I would purchase the car.

I'm not saying the CT has problems but here in Canada a battery with more CCA always helps.
 

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A couple of months ago, I took my wife's 2011 CT to the dealer for an oil change. As they were completing the work, they approached me and said that a check of the battery revealed that it was not performing up to standards. They said that if we waited a few months it would be out of warranty, but they would replace it at the time with no charge because it was still under the factory warranty. With an oil changes comparable or less than at Wally World, I really appreciate my dealer and his service department.
 

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Battery Draining over 24 hours

I have a 2013 CT V6, which if left over 24 hours without starting, will not start unless we jump the battery. I had just replaced the battery two weeks ago, not relizing it was under warranty. It started to drain again. Took it into the dealership who kept it for a week and determined an issue with the radio unit was draining the battery. They replaced the unit even though I am just out of warranty. I have only had this car new for a little over a year, but have a long commute. This morning, after leaving her sit again 30hours without staring...the battery is dead again. Had to jump start. All lights on dash kept flickering...then ABS lights stayed on until I drove it a couple of miles...seems to be something related to using the brake pedal and starter switch. Odd thing, the battery is up fully charged after only running it a few minutes. So there has a be short or disconnect. Anyone else have this problem? If so what did they determine caused it? Thanks.:confused:
 

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I have been running A red top optima battery for 2 years now with no issues...Yet. I do not recommend Optima for anyone. Although it has been a fantastic, long lasting, beaten up battery it is also known for dying without warning all of a sudden. It hasn't happened to me yet, but when it does go, it's gone.

For a replacement battery, I highly recommend a battery from "Odyssey". NO not the minivan xD

I am soon to replace my optima with one of their light weight batteries, I have heard nothing but good things.
 
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