[kmichellextour]

Hello, I have discovered that I need to replace my timing chain in my 2013 CT EX (111k miles). Mechanic says this is a known issue especially if you let the oil go past 6k miles (I did not, but here I am...) What exact Honda parts to I need to order for my mechanic to replace the timing chain? He said I needed to order Honda parts no after market. Also said this was a 12 hour job... :-(

Answers to possible Qs: I have already changed the oil and have always used the recommended oil 0w 20 and new oil filter before 6K. I then replaced the camshaft position sensor (diag.code P0341) and a few miles in the code came back up. I did more research and noticed my gas mileage was getting worse and when I run the AC the car is a bit sluggish. No weird noises coming from engine and I just had the engine wire harness replaced in April because the rodent family living in my valve cover made a huge mess and that was when the codes came up... after the new ewh was installed I drove 134 miles and the check engine light came on along with the FCW / LDW lights and fail message, same as before the new harness.

Thank you for any assistance and I am so glad I found this forum!

 

[NailGrease]

Just to clarify, you have a V6 or an 4 cylinder?

The V6 has a timing belt and should be replaced at 105k miles or every 7 years. I'd recommend the Aisin timing belt water pump kit (TKH002) sold on RockAuto. I can give you a code to save an additional 5% if you need this.

The spark plugs should be replaced too. Only use NGK Laser Iridiums.

I can't imagine needing to replace a chain on a 4 cylinder.

 

[kmichellextour]

4 cylinder and I was thinking the same thing about the timing chain. I do have an appt. for a mechanic to look at it to determine the issue. However, as a woman, I wanted to do some research and at the very least understand what is going on. and now I am not so certain it is the timing chain. Runs fine with out AC on full blast. wondering if I should change the spark plugs, they have never been changed and I have owned it since brand new off the lot.

 

[NailGrease]

4 cylinder and I was thinking the same thing about the timing chain. I do have an appt. for a mechanic to look at it to determine the issue. However, as a woman, I wanted to do some research and at the very least understand what is going on. and now I am not so certain it is the timing chain. Runs fine with out AC on full blast. wondering if I should change the spark plugs, they have never been changed and I have owned it since brand new off the lot.

Definitely change the plugs. It will make a difference. Should be replaced at 100k miles. Only use NGK Laser Iridiums. All else fails.

There are little things you can do to keep your engine running smoothly...

• Air filter New/Clean installed correctly
• Air intake tube no cracks, clamps tight.
• Clean the Mass Airflow sensor (MAF) remove/unplug, with CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner, spray a few short bursts directly into the visible electrodes to knock the fine dust particles off. Let dry thoroughly before re-installing.
• Replace spark plugs
• Spark plug tubes should be free of oil. Inspect
• Coils oil free
• Replace the PCV valve
• Use full synthetic oil, recommended weight, no semi blends or Extended Performance oil.
• Use a Top Tier 87 octane fuel or use injector cleaner regularly

Hope this helps.

 

[kmichellextour]

Thank you, I ordered some spark plugs. air filters are less than a year and not too dirty. checked air intake all is well. I do have a MAF cleaner but need to learn how to do that. Always use 0w20 full synthetic oil and fram filter. One issue I have run into is needing to add oil before the oil life. And I just did an oil and filter change about 2-3 weeks ago and it is already down to 50% according to the dash. And I am getting crappy gas mileage, like 50 miles less than I typically get on a tank.

 

[NailGrease]

Thank you, I ordered some spark plugs. air filters are less than a year and not too dirty. checked air intake all is well. I do have a MAF cleaner but need to learn how to do that. Always use 0w20 full synthetic oil and fram filter. One issue I have run into is needing to add oil before the oil life. And I just did an oil and filter change about 2-3 weeks ago and it is already down to 50% according to the dash. And I am getting crappy gas mileage, like 50 miles less than I typically get on a tank.

New plugs and MAF cleaning will help with the fuel economy.
A New PCV valve will lower the crankcase pressure. This helps with oil loss.
The MAF is located on top of the air intake tube near the air filter box. Its held in by 2 small phillips screws. Unplug by squeezing the wire harness clip and pull it off the MAF. lift the sensor out, and spray clean the visible electrodes located at the bottom of the sensor. I let dry in direct sunlight. This removes the condensation that can form. Then reinstall. A clean MAF will give the computer an accurate Airflow reading and will improve fuel/air mixture.
Oil in the spark plug tubes is a bad thing. Watch for that when replacing spark plugs.
Please let us know how things go.

 

[edubfromktown]

Thanks for all the great advice/info NailGrease.

I replaced the timing belt, tensioner, etc. on my late 2013 (with 70+K miles on it) earlier this year.

Since then I've driven 1k+ miles twice to change the work-from-home scenery and have had trouble free cruising.

We hauled mountain bikes on a hitch rack to hit some cool rocky/rooty/natural trails during the second trip.

Sent from my IN2015 using Tapatalk

 

[L8Apex]

There is no "known issue" with the timing chain on the 4-cyl, K24 motor of which I am aware. It is a stout, almost legendary motor. I know folks with forced induction that have been driving their K24 cars trouble free with more than 450whp for years. Just saying...

 

[Elico]

One issue I have run into is needing to add oil before the oil life. And I just did an oil and filter change about 2-3 weeks ago and it is already down to 50% according to the dash. And I am getting crappy gas mileage, like 50 miles less than I typically get on a tank.

If the dash is indicating 50% oil LIFE, it does not mean that you are low on oil.
The only way to confirm, is to park on level surface, and check the engine's oil dipstick, after the engine has been turned off for at least 20 min.
I used to have a 4 Cyl Accord, which I maintained myself, the engine as noted above, is albeit legendary, when I sold my '85, it had well over 510,000Km on it, and it was still running 2 years afterwards.
The maintenance list from NailGrease, above, is great, but one minor yet vital component may be missing.
Replace the Fuel filter as required, and more frequently as the car ages, due to particles in the particles like rust in the tank over time.., I forgot mine and it took me a long time to figure out why my car was behaving so poorly, when I finally changed it, it was black!

 

[Benny]

Something is wrong, the oil mileage light, is just that. It goes by mileages, not oil life.