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Hi all, i'm pretty new to this and this is my first post. Thought i'd see if anybody else had this problem.

I've got a 2010 CT 2WD with about 29000 miles on it.

Was driving on the highway when i decided to change lanes to pass and CT wouldn't accelerate. I was going 60mph and as i stepped on the gas pedal it wouldn't accelerate and all it did was rev the engine. The engine light came on. I drove it like this for a minute and then pulled over. I turned it off and restarted. It started driving again, but for some reason (don't know if it's just in my head now), but it doesn't seem to be accelerating as quickly as it was before.

Has anybody else experienced anything like this?
 

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Maybe a long shot, but TPS malfunction?!?

Hi all, i'm pretty new to this and this is my first post. Thought i'd see if anybody else had this problem.

I've got a 2010 CT 2WD with about 29000 miles on it.

Was driving on the highway when i decided to change lanes to pass and CT wouldn't accelerate. I was going 60mph and as i stepped on the gas pedal it wouldn't accelerate and all it did was rev the engine. The engine light came on. I drove it like this for a minute and then pulled over. I turned it off and restarted. It started driving again, but for some reason (don't know if it's just in my head now), but it doesn't seem to be accelerating as quickly as it was before.

Has anybody else experienced anything like this?
Let me first get the disclosures out first... I don't own a Crosstour!

I have a 2003 Accord, of which, I experienced similar problem.

I think it may be the TPS, or Throttle Position Sensor. Fault code P2138.

If there's a Kragen (now O'Reilly's) nearby you, or any auto parts that would be willing to lend a OBD II reader, you can read the problem yourself, and save some time guessing. You can also get a OBD II reader online on Amazon, for cheap (less than $40). Just make sure you get one that's compatible with reading your CT.

I posted my experience here. I'm the one who posted the pictures and solution.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35469

Anyway, if indeed it is the TPS, I think it would be safe to drive for a while (no guarantees, but I drove my Accord for another 10 days after first time the engine check light came on), but you may want to get this problem fixed soon, as it may completely go out on you on the road or freeway one day.
 

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Let me first get the disclosures out first... I don't own a Crosstour!

I have a 2003 Accord, of which, I experienced similar problem.

I think it may be the TPS, or Throttle Position Sensor. Fault code P2138.

If there's a Kragen (now O'Reilly's) nearby you, or any auto parts that would be willing to lend a OBD II reader, you can read the problem yourself, and save some time guessing. You can also get a OBD II reader online on Amazon, for cheap (less than $40). Just make sure you get one that's compatible with reading your CT.

I posted my experience here. I'm the one who posted the pictures and solution.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35469

Anyway, if indeed it is the TPS, I think it would be safe to drive for a while (no guarantees, but I drove my Accord for another 10 days after first time the engine check light came on), but you may want to get this problem fixed soon, as it may completely go out on you on the road or freeway one day.
Autozone (and many other auto parts chain stores) will read Engine Codes for free. Just walk in and ask them nicely.

Not sure what caused your car to behave the way it did... but it sounds like a transmission related thing?

The fact that the engine reved says to me that the motor is getting the signal to increase speed, but the wheels aren't.

Perhaps someone else could chime in... but this is certainly a safety issue and should be addressed by your mechanic soon.

$0.02
 

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Let us know when you get the problem isolated and resolved. I have a 2010 with about 25k on it, no problems other than a software update that kept giving false codes.
 

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I’m having the same issue. Feels like loss of power. Also abs and traction lights are on. I’ve been told it’s a speed sensor behind one of the tires...
 

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I’m having the same issue. Feels like loss of power. Also abs and traction lights are on. I’ve been told it’s a speed sensor behind one of the tires...
You have a check engine light? If so, need to scan for the code.
Year, mileage?
 

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No check engine light Isn’t on. 2010 140k. Have not replaced the timing belt in it yet either. Did valve cover and gaskets and spark plugs...
 

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No check engine light Isn’t on. 2010 140k. Have not replaced the timing belt in it yet either. Did valve cover and gaskets and spark plugs...
Loss of power can be from a stretch timing belt. On the timing belt job I did above, after I aligned the crankshaft to the timing mark, I had to rotate the cams a bit more to line them on their marks. An advancement of 3/4 a tooth. But really no need to speculate. Getting the timing belt water pump job done would be high priority. If it break, it will cost thousands to repair or replace the engine. It's time for a tune up. New air filter, clean MAF, new spark plugs.
 
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Loss of power can be from a stretch timing belt. On the timing belt job I did above, after I aligned the crankshaft to the timing mark, I had to rotate the cams a bit more to line them on their marks. An advancement of 3/4 a tooth. But really no need to speculate. Getting the timing belt water pump job done would be high priority. If it break, it will cost thousands to repair or replace the engine. It's time for a tune up. New air filter, clean MAF, new spark plugs.
Thank you! That definitely sounds like the issue no doubt in my mind now. I didn’t know they stretch like that. Also the noise I could hear is probably the best water pump. But yes again thank you!
 

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No check engine light Isn’t on. 2010 140k. Have not replaced the timing belt in it yet either. Did valve cover and gaskets and spark plugs...
My 2012 just turned 200k. You really need to have the valves adjusted to prevent the intake valves from having to much clearance. Exhaust valves too but they seem to be not as critical. You are on borrowed time with an interference fit engine. If you plan on doing the belt yourself you need to heat the balancer bolt with a touch then a 4 ft bar with 3/4 or 1/2 tooling specially if it’s the first belt. Piece of cake after that. Great YouTube Video out there on it. Then the crank clear crank learn after your done. Good luck
 

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Thank you! That definitely sounds like the issue no doubt in my mind now. I didn’t know they stretch like that. Also the noise I could hear is probably the best water pump. But yes again thank you!
I use Aisin Timing Belt Water Pump kits. I've installed more than I can remember. Never had one fail.
9782

I buy from RockAuto. If intrested, I can post a 5% discount code.
 

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I’m having the same issue. Feels like loss of power. Also abs and traction lights are on. I’ve been told it’s a speed sensor behind one of the tires...
Same problem, Check engine lights up and switches off every now and then, abs and drift light also on.
I am starting to get a new message on the dash about tighten the gas cap, not sure why....
Let me know what you find out
 

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Ok well I got the timing belt replaced along with tensioner and water pump. It sounds perfect at idle. However when I go above 45 it gets louder and louder. 70 mph sounds like tires are going to fall off. I asked my other mechanic and he said it is the wheel bearings. Which makes perfect sense...
 

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Ok well I got the timing belt replaced along with tensioner and water pump. It sounds perfect at idle. However when I go above 45 it gets louder and louder. 70 mph sounds like tires are going to fall off. I asked my other mechanic and he said it is the wheel bearings. Which makes perfect sense...
Wheel bearings make a very distinct growl. The sound pitch will increase as speed is increased. CV axles are most common to fail. If your 140k was mostly city street driving, I'd check these.
 
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Wheel bearings make a very distinct growl. The sound pitch will increase as speed is increased. CV axles are most common to fail. If your 140k was mostly city street driving, I'd check these.
Yes!!!! The sound it is making is a very distinct growl. I couldn’t think of how to describe it, but it is definitely distinct and growling faster goes...
 

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Yes!!!! The sound it is making is a very distinct growl. I couldn’t think of how to describe it, but it is definitely distinct and growling faster goes...
If your AWD, there is an axle shaft bearing and differential bearing that can make a growl sound. It would be heard more under the passenger compartment.
 

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