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So Im driving a 2013 2.4 and I wanna make it faster. I was thinking about a performance tune but I dont know too much about this. Anyone got any other ideas or know about tuning it? The max I would wanna spend is $600 but I would really prefer much lower lol.
 

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So Im driving a 2013 2.4 and I wanna make it faster. I was thinking about a performance tune but I dont know too much about this. Anyone got any other ideas or know about tuning it? The max I would wanna spend is $600 but I would really prefer much lower lol.
for $600 at best you can do is meddle with the exhaust, even then its no more than 5hp, you could try weight reduction: remove rear seats, spare tire, and anything else not strapped down, maybe a cold air intake but the HP gains on those is questionable, Ive heard of some civic SI owners tuning the ECM chips for more power, not really sure.
 

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600 dollars worth of mods??

600 dollars worth of mods is not much. I put a down pipe and modified the exhaust for around $550 and I still have one piece to add for another $120. I did feel a noticeable change but I also believe this was in conjunction with the Takeda short ram intake. I think the SRI was around $200. I have also added the Unorthodox pulleys and those I really like! The pulleys were around $240 and came with a Gates belt. I had to buy some tools to remove the crank pulley bolt. I really like the outcome of those mods. I have installed including the 22mm progress rear anti-roll bar. The anti roll bar was about $165 dollars. I am setting up the car for a supercharger and am planning for a standalone ECU and tune to be installed after the holidays.

Yes I used the 10 foot black water pipe along with a 1000 ftlbs impact Pneumatic Wrench, and Electric 300 ftlbs impact wrench.

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That's a RV6 downpipe isn't it? What part number didn't you used? Is it for the same gen accord 2008-2012 4 cylinder model? Thanks!!
 

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I am setting up the car for a supercharger and am planning for a standalone ECU and tune to be installed after the holidays.
But then will you not have to reinstall the OEM crank pulley so that you can mount the drive pulley for the supercharger compressor?
 

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Rv6

That's a RV6 downpipe isn't it? What part number didn't you used? Is it for the same gen accord 2008-2012 4 cylinder model? Thanks!!
Yes that is the RV6 Downpipe and yes I ordered the one for the 2008-2012 I4 Accord. I like it but read my post regarding the rasp noise. WOT its very cool. Driving it to the exhaust shop was an experience.
 

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Pulleys

But then will you not have to reinstall the OEM crank pulley so that you can mount the drive pulley for the supercharger compressor?
I may be misunderstanding your post but I plan to compensate and adjust the pressure using the supercharger pulley. The supercharger pulley will use the same serpentine belt as the rest of the engine. The question is do I use centrifugal or screw type supercharger. I don't have this totally figured out so any guidance or suggestion would be appreciated. In addition this is not planned to be a drag or race car. I plan to keep this as street type car.
 

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I may be misunderstanding your post but I plan to compensate and adjust the pressure using the supercharger pulley.
I understand that. I've done 6 superchargers on my Hondas.

The supercharger pulley will use the same serpentine belt as the rest of the engine.
Kraftwerks tried this very unsuccessfully on their Rotrex kits. After 2 years of trying, and eating up lots of idler bearings and auto-tension bearings, you will find that all of their updated kits, now, use a drive pulley mounted to the crank pulley and a stand-alone drive belt.

The beauty of the stand-alone drive belt is that if it, the idler bearing, auto-tension bearing or other part goes wrong, all that happens is that you loose boost.

CT Engineering, Science of Speed, TTS, and now, Kraftwerks, all, use a stand-alone drive pulley.
 

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Update: Since my experience is limited to the F20 and F22 motors on superchargers, please note that my comments on drive pulleys are limited to those Honda motors.
 

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Superchargers

I understand that. I've done 6 superchargers on my Hondas.



Kraftwerks tried this very unsuccessfully on their Rotrex kits. After 2 years of trying, and eating up lots of idler bearings and auto-tension bearings, you will find that all of their updated kits, now, use a drive pulley mounted to the crank pulley and a stand-alone drive belt.

The beauty of the stand-alone drive belt is that if it, the idler bearing, auto-tension bearing or other part goes wrong, all that happens is that you loose boost.

CT Engineering, Science of Speed, TTS, and now, Kraftwerks, all, use a stand-alone drive pulley.
A separate drive pulley for the supercharger seems to make for a good design. I hope to keep the pulley but if it has to change I can do that. I have kept all my parts I have taken off. I hate to take steps backward particularly when money is involved. The little bit of research that I have done seems that the supercharger for the K24 engine only uses one pulley but there will be more to come. The crosstour is a project in the "Werks". :)
 

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Anybody thought about TSX ECU reflash.
I was planning to do this on my 7th Accord utilizing a 05 ECU with the Stock K24A4.

Recently I been on the K24A2 swap to my 7th gen. But I'm now interested the crosstour platform. Same base engine I haven't seen exact specs for the Xtour I prefer 4cyl over J-Series.
 

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I'll add to this late in the game as I'm just now starting to consider supercharging my 2015 Crosstour (sold the 2012). I'm looking at the Kraftwerks kit on first blush. It powers the compressor with a stand alone belt which is what I want. Using the "DIY" kit you must provide the intercooler (IC) - (measure, size, mount bracket issues), fab your own IC inlet and outlet piping, fab your own cold air intake and filter, injectors (assume Injector Dynamics 1000 cc/min will do nicely), fuel pump (Aeromotive 340), fab oil reservoir mounts, perhaps air flow sensor mods and finally a good dyno tune.

I'll take more time to consider this and talk with others about the ECU situation. If anyone has first hand knowledge of Hondata, AEM or Haltech used on the last generation Crosstour, it will be most welcome.
 

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Update. I just spoke with one of the best tuners in the midwest who also tunes at locations on the east and west coasts.


He suggests that it is a project too complicated to be worth it for a street car.



He says that there are too many complications with the vehicles systems because the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) drives the auto transmission where forced induction would make shifts unacceptably rough.


Burial services for this idea will commence as soon as the headstone arrives.
 

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ANY vehicle can be modified for more horsepower including the 2.4L (with enough money). Unfortunately this engine vehicle combination is just too expensive to modify and just doesn't give back enough results HP. If you want a more horsepower vehicle, consider trading or purchasing a Camaro, Mustang or similar vehicle.
 

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Pulleys



I may be misunderstanding your post but I plan to compensate and adjust the pressure using the supercharger pulley. The supercharger pulley will use the same serpentine belt as the rest of the engine. The question is do I use centrifugal or screw type supercharger. I don't have this totally figured out so any guidance or suggestion would be appreciated. In addition this is not planned to be a drag or race car. I plan to keep this as street type car.
To the best of my knowledge, there is no positive displacement supercharger kit available for the K24Y2 motor. As a matter of fact, the only supercharger kit that I know of for this motor is the Kraftwerks K-Motor Racing kit which is a Rotrex centrifugal unit. I am very interested in supercharging and have only taken a cursory look at it. I sent a message to my favorite tuner who responded with "tuning with an aftermarket ECU around the Mass Air Flow sensor is probably going to be a nightmare". I did intend but did not call Kraftwerks to discuss tuning on the K24Y2 motor.

I've supercharged the S2000 and a K20 motor but not with a Rotrex. The only Rotrex kit that I would buy today is the kit for the S2000 from TTS. That kit uses a separate drive belt for the Rotrex unlike the Kraftworks kit that uses a single serpentine belt. There is no way in hell that I'm going with a single belt system.

My S2000 was the very first supercharged S2000 outside of the Comptech factory mule in 2001. In working with Comptech's product engineer, Shad Huntley, I wound up breaking a couple of drive belts while on the road and I also had one give out while I was in upstate New York at Watkins Glen. So, I'm sold on having an SC drive belt apart from the serpentine belt. Whenever my drive belt snapped, all I had to do was pull the debris out and then drive home naturally aspirated. You can't do that with a single belt system.

I'm more than happy to communicate with you when I again take up the investigation of an SC for the CT. I'll be happy to hear about your progress.
 

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ANY vehicle can be modified for more horsepower including the 2.4L (with enough money). Unfortunately this engine vehicle combination is just too expensive to modify and just doesn't give back enough results HP. If you want a more horsepower vehicle, consider trading or purchasing a Camaro, Mustang or similar vehicle.
If an aftermarket ECU exists that will properly tune a K24Y2 motor under forced induction, getting 400-500 of daily driving rwhp is child's play with the K24 motor. The big issue will be the transmission and what sort of torque it will withstand. You may only be able to get it to, say, 350 whp for daily use.

Supercharger Kit for, say, $4,000
ECU for, say, $1,000
ECU install, say, $500 (assuming that no plug-n-play interface harness exists)
Dyno Tune, say, $400

Budget, say, $5,900 ±
 
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