Join Date: Nov 2011
Torque Specs, Fluid Quantities, Fluid Types and Other Stuff
***Moderator, This Maintenance section shows as "...not the section for DIY step-by-step tutorials." Where should this be posted? Please advise or move as you deem appropriate. Jay***
The following reference is a list of Fluid Types, Fluid Quantities, Torque Values and other (hopefully) helpful information to help you maintain the CT. It is based on the Honda Crosstour Service Manuals, Volumes 1 & 2 for the 2010 and 2011 models. For those of you with the 2012 models, I listed the bolt size when referencing torque values; many should be the same as the 2011 model. Obviously, do not attempt any type of service for any reason if you are unaware of exactly what you are doing. I hate to say it, but I will not be held responsible for injury or damage as a result of the information listed below. If the moderator(s) will allow it, I hope to make this a living thread so please feel free to ask to have anything added, edited or verified.
The information below is for all models unless noted, i.e. 4WD/FWD and/or 2010/2011.
Torques are lbf.ft., measurements are mm, pressures are psi and temperatures are F.
3.5 Liter, Single Overhead Cam, i-VTEC, Variable Cylinder Management, Sequential Multiport Fuel Injected Engine
13.5 Volts/110 Amps
3.6 Ohms at 68 degrees F
Side jack points or front center jack bracket.
Side jack points ONLY. Do not use the rear differential (4WD), rear sub-frame or rear suspension components. (I am in the process of having a friend fabricate a 2” steel jack bar for the rear with non-sliding jack points for the jack rails on the car and a non-sliding jack point that will be welded in the center of the bar. I’ll try to get a picture up when it’s done.)
Wheel Lug Nuts
80 lbf-ft (Hand fasten and seat all then torque every other, i.e. 1-3-5-2-4
Engine Air Filter
Torques (4 Bolts) (6 x 1.00mm)
Engine Oil (0W-20)
5.3 US qt
Oil change with filter change
4.5 US qt
Oil change without filter change
4.2 US qt
Oil drain plug (Always use new crush washer)
Oil filter (Wipe filter gasket with new oil)
Coolant (Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2)
2.27 US gal
1.74 US gal
0.18 US gal
Opens at 13.5-17.8psi
Opens at 169-176 degrees
Fully open at 194 degrees
Engine Block Coolant Drain Bolt
PCV Valve (Use new O rings)
18.5 US gal
650+/-50 no load
799+/-50 under load
Transmission Fluid (Use Only Honda DW-1)
(4WD) Engine Overhaul
8.3 US qt
(4WD) Fluid Change
3.0 US qt
(2WD) Engine Overhaul
7.9 US qt
(2WD) Fluid Change
3.5 US qt
Transmission Fluid Drain Plug (Always use new crush washer)
Transmission Fluid Filler Bolt (Always use new crush washer)
Transfer Assembly (GL4 or GL 5 SAE 90 hypoid gear oil)
.48 US qt
.43 US qt
Oil Drain Plug (Always use new crush washer)
Oil Filler Plug (Always use new crush washer)
Rear Differential (Honda Dual Pump Fluid II)
1.5 US qt
1.3 US qt
Oil Drain Plug (Always use new crush washer)
Oil Filler plug (Always use new crush washer)
Power Steering (Honda Power Steering Fluid)
1.2 US qt
.34 US qt
Should set within 7 to 9 clicks with 44.1 lbs of force.
Brakes & Brake Fluid (Honda DOT 3)
Front Left, Front Right, Rear Right, Rear Left
Front Bleed Nipple
Front Brake Hose Bracket Retaining Bolt 8 x 1.25mm
Front Caliper to Caliper Bracket Bolts 10 x 1.0mm
Front Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Bolts 14 x 1.5mm
Front Disc to Hub Bolts (Phillips Screw) 6 x 1.0mm
Rear Bleed Nipple
Rear Brake Hose Bracket Retaining Bolt 8 x 1.25mm
Rear Caliper to Caliper Bracket Bolts 8 x 1.0mm
Rear Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Bolts 12 x 1.25mm
Rear Disc to Hub Bolts (Phillips Screw) 6 x 1.0mm
Front Brake Pads Minimum Thickness
Front Brake Disc
26mm (Refinishing Limit)
Rear Brake Pads Minimum Thickness
Rear Brake Disc
8mm (Refinishing Limit)
Parking Brake Pad Minimum thickness
Engine Under Cover
There are eleven body molding fasteners that attach the undercover to the vehicle (six along the front bumper cover, two on the driver side and three on the passenger side. Remove them and the undercover will come off.
2010 – Drive Belt Auto Tensioner - Hydraulically Actuated (Pressure with socket wrench should be steady and the stroke should take 3 seconds)
Take one minute and draw a diagram of the belt/pulley pattern. Working over the engine, attach a socket and wrench/breaker bar (2010 Owners, forward the socket size to me and I’ll add it) to the tensioner and push straight back toward the rear of the vehicle; thus, releasing the tension on the belt and remove the belt.
2011 – Drive Belt Auto Tensioner – Spring Actuated (Make sure the socket or wrench attachment is set and secure on the upper pulley bolt. If it slips, it’s not going to be good for your fingers.
Take one minute and draw a diagram of the belt/pulley pattern. Working over the engine, attach a socket or wrench attachment and wrench/breaker bar (2011 Owners, forward the socket or wrench attachment size to me and I’ll add it) to the upper tensioner pulley and push straight back toward the rear of the vehicle; thus, releasing the tension on the belt and remove the belt. (Note: These threads are reverse threaded; you will not loosen anything)
Tensioner Pulley Removal
2010 – Hydraulically Actuated
Remove the belt. Remove the engine under cover. There are two bolts. One is a 12 x 1.25 and the other is a 8 x 1.25. Remove those and the tensioner will come off. Installation is the reverse. Conduct the air bleed as described below.
Upper Tensioner Pulley Bolt 12 x 1.25 (Clean the bolt and washer and apply a light coat of new oil to the bolt and the washer.)
Lower Tensioner Pulley Bolt 8 x 1.25
2011 – Spring Actuated
Remove the belt. Remove the engine under cover. There are two bolts. One is a 10 x 1.5 and the other is a 8 x 1.25. Remove those and the tensioner will come off. Installation is the reverse.
Upper Tensioner Pulley Bolt 10 x 1.5mm
Lower Tensioner Pulley Bolt 8 x 1.25mm
Drive Belt Auto-Tensioner Air Bleed
2010 Models Only
Remove the belt. Fully compress and decompress the tensioner three times taking three seconds per stroke. (Should be six strokes total) (Yes, I know how that sounds)
Driveline Axle Spindle Nut (AKA Crankshaft Pulley or Harmonic Balancer)
!!!WARNING!!! – SEVERE RISK OF DEATH – THEY ALMOST DOUBLE THE TORQUE VALUES AT THE FACTORY – WHEN REMOVING, IF YOU ARE ABLE TO APPLY THIS MUCH PRESSURE TO THE VEHICLE BY USING A BREAKER BAR WHILE UNDER THE VEHICLE, THEN THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE YOU CAN PULL THE VEHICLE FORWARD OFF OF THE JACKSTANDS IF THE FOUNDATION ISN’T LEVEL – BE CAREFUL!
Torques (Ensure all mating surfaces are clean and apply new oil to the mating surface of the bolt)
Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement (Air Condition Air Filter)
1) Open and empty the glove compartment.
2) Where the glove box damper attaches to the glove box door on the right side – push the damper down and forward until is separates.
3) Lower the glove box slowly and let it hang down.
4) Locate and release the tab(s) that secure the filter.
5) Pull the filter assembly straight back and out.
6) Replace the filter element with the new one.
7) Installation is the reverse. Set the damper by hooking the pin and gently pulling the arm forward until it sets into place.
Tire Pressure Management System (TPMS)
The CT TPMS is a speed actuated system that comes on after 28mph and updates every minute. If low pressure is detected in a tire, the Low Tire Pressure Indicator will come on. If the TPMS detects a fault in the system (low sensor voltage, no sensor signal), the TPMS light will come on. After driving at speeds under 28 mph or being stopped, the TPMS will continue to operate for five minutes. Afterwards, the system will go into sleep mode until the CT reaches 28mph once again.
The light will come on when the pressure reaches 25 psi in all models (27 psi in the 2011 AWD model). The light will go off after the vehicle reaches 28mph and the tire pressure is above 29 psi in all models (30 psi in the 2011 AWD model).
1) Air pressure decreases by 1.5 psi for every 10 degree F drop in temperature.
2) The TPMS sensors use lithium batteries. -4 degree weather and lower may cause power output to drop causing the TPMS light to come on.
3) The spare does not have a TPMS sensor; thus, the light will come on until the tire is replaced.
4) Fluid based tire repair sealant can damage the sensor. It can also prevent the sensor from detecting pressure.
When alternators fail, one of the usual culprits are worn brushes. The brush housing Honda uses for the CT, and countless other models, is easily removed, inspected and, replaced (Minimum service usages for the brushes is 1.5 mm). Also ensure the battery is in good health, the terminals are clean and the battery terminal contacts are tight.
1) Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
2) Open the hood and disconnect the negative (-) terminal.
3) Remove the engine under cover.
4) Disconnect the AC condenser fan electrical connector and the wire harness.
5) From under the vehicle, LOOSEN the two bolts that hold the AC condenser fan housing.
6) Remove the Coolant reservoir (The hose will pull from the radiator neck and the reservoir will pop up and slide out of its harness)
7) From over the vehicle, remove the two bolts that hold the AC condenser fan housing and remove the AC condenser fan housing from the engine compartment.
8) Remove the drive belt.
9) Disconnect the alternator connector cable, the Positive (+) alternator cable, the AC compressor clutch electrical connector harness attached to the alternator, the AC compressor clutch electrical connection from the AC compressor and the bolt securing the alternator electrical wire harness to the alternator.
Installation is reverse order of removal. Take care not to drop the AC condenser fan housing back into place; breaking the radiator drain petcock housing would really suck.
Upper Alternator Mounting Bolt 8 x 1.25mm
Lower Alternator Mounting Bolt 10 x 1.25mm
Wire Harness to Alternator Bolt 6 x 1.0mm
Alternator Connector Nut 8 x 1.25mm
AC Condenser Fan Housing Bolts 6 x 1.0mm
Last edited by jay1622; 11-08-2011 at 07:51 PM.