So I recently purchased a Black 2013 EX-L V6 4WD for my wife, and within the first 5 minutes realized that the stock sound system was pretty pathetic.
So after a few days of research and a lot of frustration trying to get info on disabling the ANC system, I pulled the trigger and bought new speakers to replace the stock door speakers front and rear, an 1000w Amplifier, 8" Subwoofer and Enclosure.
The full list of what I bought (including adapters) can be found here:
The first thing I did was to disable the ANC (Active Noise Control) Unit since by all accounts this system does not work well with aftermarket speaker upgrades.
After searching for days to find out how to get to the unit and reading about people disconnecting the mics for the ANC and losing Bluetooth capability or having to cut wires, etc, I decided the best route would be to unplug the ANC unit itself since it is a self contained control box.
The ANC unit on the 2013 is easily accessed via the drivers side kick panel attached to the front of the center console.
Unfortunately the plug is on the back side of the unit and it is a bit tight (certainly too tight for my meat paws to unplug it.).
But, the only thing keeping it from rotating on the mounting stud is a small tab at the top of the mounting bracket. Simply push that tab up so that it clears the slot and you can rotate the unit to access the plug and unplug it.
Replacing the stock speakers was very simple with the adapters listed in the link above. Though I did have to recess the hole for the mounting bolt by about 3/8" to make sure the speakers mounted flush to the adapter. (sorry no pictures). The door skins for the rear doors come off very easily (2 screws and a handful of pop trim fasteners). For the fronts, the bottoms of the door skins easily pull out far enough to change out the speakers without fully removing the door skin.
Looking at the pathetic magnets and cheap cone materials of the factory speakers, I know why it sucks so much.
The Polk Audio Speakers sound great on their own driven by the factory head unit (although I am sure they would sound even better with higher power).
All told install of all four speakers was about 30-45 minutes including the time to recess the adapter holes.
Next step was to run the wiring for the amplifier. I chose to use a true 4 Guage flexible wire, which is very thick.
There are 2 grommets to the left of the dead pedal which route into the inner fender.
I chose to route the Positive Power Cable through the hole used for the Hood Release Cable. There is just enough room to get the 4GA wire through without the grommet.
I then fed about 2-3 feet of wire into the inner fender area which can be accessed from above under the hood near the where the fender meets the windshield:
The rubber dust cover lifts right up and you can reach into the area and fish out the wire (or if you have giant meat paws, you can nicely ask your petite wife to reach in and grab it).
I then routed the wire inside the plastic trim piece that runs along the fender edge and routed the wire to the battery and installed the fuse and terminal ends.
In addition to the power wire, the amplifier needs a remote turn on that is wired to either the radio or another key switched source. For this I used a bussman add a circuit. And tapped into the ACC (radio) fuse location. Just load up two fuses in the AAC slots (they use mini blade fuses, not the micro like the crosstour uses, but it fits the slot just fine you just need to buy 2 7.5 amp minis to fill the circuit one for the radio and one for the circuit you are adding).
I then connected the 12GA remote wire to the crimp on the end of the AAC line, and routed it along with the power wire in the door trim channel.
Behind the seat belt unit in the pillar and back through the rear door trim channel.
Routing the wires from the door trim channel to behind the seat was a bit of a challenge, but I used a smaller gauge stiffer wire to route through then tied it to the power and remote leads to fish it through. There is a nice channel behind the seats that is covered with a spring loaded flap. Plenty of room in there for cables.
Next up, tapping into the stock subwoofer wiring to get the audio feed for the subwoofer.