Honda Crosstour Forums banner

DIY: step-by-step rear swaybar & endinks upgrade

48K views 50 replies 18 participants last post by  Doug67SS 
#1 ·
The following is a DIY step-by-step on how to upgrade your OE rear sway bar as well as front and rear endlinks thus allowing for a more controlled ride and better handling.
At first, I replaced the rear sway bar only as the endlinks did not arrive on time and that already made a huge difference as the rear no longer swayed on turns. Once I added the upgraded endlinks, I feel the car is better poised and quite neutral versus displaying understeer as originally tuned from the factory.
I did not change the front swaybar given its already huge stock diameter. The objective of this modification was to balance out the rear handling characteristic of the vehicle by bringing it closer to that of the front and thus providing a more neutral feel.

Rear swaybar: I upgrded the rear stock swaybar to an Acura TL AWD rear swaybar and to accommodate the now thicker bar, I went with Subaru Tribeca front swaybar bushings. (pic 1 - 4)
Rear endlinks: stock endlinks have been replaced with KARTBOY 2008 Subaru WRX endlinks (pic 5)
Front endlinks: stock endlinks have been replaced with RALLITEK front WRX endlinks (Pic 6)


Stock rear swaybar (14mm diameter)


Acura TL AWD rear sway bar (part #: 25300-TK5-A02)



Tribeca bushings incl part #


KARTBOY rear endlinks 2008 WRX (purchased from www.fredbeansparts.com part #: KB-017-08)


KARTBOY supplied hardware but you will need 2 extra bolt just like this one, so take what KARTBOY supplied to your hardware store, and get 2 more along with 2 extra properly fitting nuts..spend the extra $$ and get stuff that is less prone to rust - I think they are 3/8 16 x 2.5 ")


RALLITEK front endlinks (part #: RTK-HDELF)


Step 1: put car on ramp


Step 2: Disconnect sway bar from endlink, and endlink from chassis using 9/16 wrench, use penetrating spray to loosen the rusty bolts.



STEP 3: Replace OE rear swaybar with Acura TL AWD rear swaybar and new KARTBOY endlinks. You will have to wiggle that OE swaybar lots and it 's tricky but there should be no need to remove wheels or undo exhaust. Be sure to put new grease on those Subaru Tribeca bushings (i used ball bearing grease)



Difference between OE and KARTBOY endlinks

Step 4: Repeat the same process on the opposite side. Once done it should look like this (caution: do not tighten/fasten anyone side fully, simply put all parts into place, put all washers & nuts on and loosely assemble as this will allow for an easier fit and adjustment)


Step 5: repeat same process but in the front using RALLITEK front endlink

Difference between OE front endlink and RALLITEK front endlink

TIP: most endlink will have a HEX key hole. This is so that you can insert the hex key into the hole and hold it steady while loosening or tightening with a wrench, as per pic. If you do not do this, the endlink bolts will simply turn on themselves.



Once done with the front endlink, it should look like this
 
See less See more
17
#34 ·
does anyone know if the larger progress swaybar that's 24mm fits on the AWD crosstour? Looking at my car I don't see any reason it wouldn't, but on progress' website it says it does not work on the AWD acura TL which worries me. JubileeJack, do you have a AWD crosstour? I'd like to go with the biggest rear bar as I can
 
#35 ·
the biggest RSB you can install on our AWD is 22mm, Progressive is correct in their statement. Anything thicker than 22mm will interfere with the vehicle 's underpinning including exhaust components.
When i went from OE to 19mm, i could tell there was not match more room to install anything much thicker, i was happy to have found the 22mm Progressive RSB. remember, when Honda engineered the rear suspension, it was set at 14mm OE so they felt no need to leave much room for anything drastic since this is not a car that enjoys a huge aftermarket following such a Mustang, Impreza, etc...the CT is aimed at empty nesters.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Jack - I'm curious where you got your progressive rsb? Is that the mfr. name? I googled it and mostly came up with ATV stuff under the Progressive name. I saw others listed under Progress name. Is it still one that fits the Acura TL AWD? I found a 22mm Progress rsb but it is for a 09-11 TSX....would that be what I'm looking for?

I just bought my CT about two weeks ago (coming from an Audi A4) so I'm interested tightening up the handling on it a bit. Thanks.
 
#37 ·
http://throwdownperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=219_1_2_4_225&products_id=43

I ordered it through Throwdown Performance (link above) but like I said, awful service: no email replies, they don 't pick calls, and took me 3 weeks to get my part. Hope you have a better experience....when you do the RSB upgrade, get yourself some decent endlinks, the OE ones are way too forgiving. If you don 't do that, no matter what sway bar you get, it will still feel bad. Basically, don 't bother doing anything unless you're willing to upgrade the endlinks too.
 
#39 ·
Hi JJ,

I was look for the 2010 TL AWD sway bar, and I couldn't find one with the part number you list. I was able to find a sway bar with the following part number: 52300-TK5-A02

Can you please confirm and correct your original post if the part number is incorrect?

Thanks,
WG
 
#40 ·
WG,

The part numbers are correct but I can sell you that Acura AWD RSB (19 mm) as I took it off after i upgrading to 22mm from Progressive. The Acura one looks like new, no scratches, A1 condition. If interested it 's yours for CDN $50 obo (you pay shipping) and i still have the box it came in so it won 't get dinged during shipping. Since we're both in Canada, shipping will be low. if you pm your postal code, I can give you a shipping quote and you can just pay via paypal or Interac e-transfer.
 
#42 ·
going from stock to 19mm was great but like all things, i got used to it and this 22mm is the biggest (thickness) you can install otherwise it will rub against the exhaust etc. going from 19mm to 22mm has fun but less noticeable and that 's what we call the 'scale of diminishing returns'.

Cusco endlinks are very familiar to me as I had 4 Subarus before but i would never install their end links, i would rather got for Rallitek but ultimately everyone ended up using KartBoy for obvious reason and you get what you pay for.
 
#44 ·
^thank you for the above and I am glad others have found it helpful...and here i was thinking of switching and getting a Tacoma.

The TL 's struts are calibrated for lighter vehicle than out CT so I would not recommend it. Some have dropped the CT but that prematurely wears out the suspension but more importantly, the rebound rates are incorrect. If you do end up dropping the vehicle, be sure the redo your wheel alignment as the entire suspension's geometry will be offset.

I did contact Blistein this past summer to see if they have a solution but they do not. It is my understanding that the CT 's OE shocks/struts come from KYB but I fail to see anything in their catalogue that would accommodate out CTs

If you live in a climate with no winters, go with a quality coilover setup, more money but will handle like a dream.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top