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DIY: step-by-step rear swaybar & endinks upgrade

48K views 50 replies 18 participants last post by  Doug67SS 
#1 ·
The following is a DIY step-by-step on how to upgrade your OE rear sway bar as well as front and rear endlinks thus allowing for a more controlled ride and better handling.
At first, I replaced the rear sway bar only as the endlinks did not arrive on time and that already made a huge difference as the rear no longer swayed on turns. Once I added the upgraded endlinks, I feel the car is better poised and quite neutral versus displaying understeer as originally tuned from the factory.
I did not change the front swaybar given its already huge stock diameter. The objective of this modification was to balance out the rear handling characteristic of the vehicle by bringing it closer to that of the front and thus providing a more neutral feel.

Rear swaybar: I upgrded the rear stock swaybar to an Acura TL AWD rear swaybar and to accommodate the now thicker bar, I went with Subaru Tribeca front swaybar bushings. (pic 1 - 4)
Rear endlinks: stock endlinks have been replaced with KARTBOY 2008 Subaru WRX endlinks (pic 5)
Front endlinks: stock endlinks have been replaced with RALLITEK front WRX endlinks (Pic 6)


Stock rear swaybar (14mm diameter)


Acura TL AWD rear sway bar (part #: 25300-TK5-A02)



Tribeca bushings incl part #


KARTBOY rear endlinks 2008 WRX (purchased from www.fredbeansparts.com part #: KB-017-08)


KARTBOY supplied hardware but you will need 2 extra bolt just like this one, so take what KARTBOY supplied to your hardware store, and get 2 more along with 2 extra properly fitting nuts..spend the extra $$ and get stuff that is less prone to rust - I think they are 3/8 16 x 2.5 ")


RALLITEK front endlinks (part #: RTK-HDELF)


Step 1: put car on ramp


Step 2: Disconnect sway bar from endlink, and endlink from chassis using 9/16 wrench, use penetrating spray to loosen the rusty bolts.



STEP 3: Replace OE rear swaybar with Acura TL AWD rear swaybar and new KARTBOY endlinks. You will have to wiggle that OE swaybar lots and it 's tricky but there should be no need to remove wheels or undo exhaust. Be sure to put new grease on those Subaru Tribeca bushings (i used ball bearing grease)



Difference between OE and KARTBOY endlinks

Step 4: Repeat the same process on the opposite side. Once done it should look like this (caution: do not tighten/fasten anyone side fully, simply put all parts into place, put all washers & nuts on and loosely assemble as this will allow for an easier fit and adjustment)


Step 5: repeat same process but in the front using RALLITEK front endlink

Difference between OE front endlink and RALLITEK front endlink

TIP: most endlink will have a HEX key hole. This is so that you can insert the hex key into the hole and hold it steady while loosening or tightening with a wrench, as per pic. If you do not do this, the endlink bolts will simply turn on themselves.



Once done with the front endlink, it should look like this
 
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#4 ·
Thank you for the positive feedback.
Cost was quite good:
1) fredbeansparts.com sold me the KARTBOY rear endlinks for $89 (pair), vs $125 as posted (plus shipping extra)
2) RALLITEK front endlinks were $59 (plus shipping)
3) ACURA TL AWD rear swaybar was < $100 (thanks RUSTY)
4) Tribeca bushings were $20
 
#9 ·
KARTBOY supplied hardware but you will need 2 extra bolt just like this one, so take what KARTBOY supplied to your hardware store, and get 2 more along with 2 extra properly fitting nuts..spend the extra $$ and get stuff that is less prone to rust - I think they are 3/8 16 x 2.5 ")

i have very poor english when it comes to reading... not quite sure what this means??

about how long did it take you to do all this?
 
#11 ·
I used the 2010 TL AWD model 's swaybar, I just ensured both vehicles were of the same generation so as to ensure same width in case engineering sneaked-in and made minor changes. I provided the part number for the TL AWD swaybar so it should all work fine on any 2010 and 2011 crosstours, and most likely 2012 models..

The ride is what it should have been from the factory;). I'm very big on suspension and I never lower them as it often offsets the geometry engineered by guys making 3 times my salary but I do like to tweek 'em and I have done so on every car I've owned. On the Crosstour, the upgraded swaybar & endlinks combo removed the excessive side-to-side sway from the back thus making cornering more controlled and linear. These changes are subtle and not punishing but a thicker sway bar from i.e., Progressive would definitely do that which is why I went the prudent/conservative way.

Thanks you for the bit about pics.

IMO, this swap is relatively simple, as per pics, so as long as you have a sense of adventure, it should be smooth sailing but having decent hand tools helps, air tools are overkill unless you're a tech and do this for a living.
 
#13 ·
Kartboy make many endlinks and yes they would work was initial, you just need to make sure they are the right length and shape i.e., S-shaped, C-shaped, etc.

As for Rallitek front endlinks, just buy from them directly, they are very professional and parts are always in stock. Here is a link to to the part itself.
http://www.rallitek.com/RalliTEK-HD-Front-Endlinks/p-4269
 
#17 ·
Prior to my CT, I had 4 Subarus and given their rally lineage, their aftermarket caters to suspension upgrades offering well engineered pieces. As such, these pieces can often be put on other vehicles as long as the lengths and angles fit. Example, the Mustang and most Volvo endlinks are extremely long so they would not fit many Hondas with the exception of perhaps the Ridgeline, Pilot and the ZDX. However, the rear endlinks from a Camaro are short and would then fit many other cars so an aftermarket Camaro rear endlink would a great choice as it 's made to withstand all the torque at the rear wheels.
 
#18 ·
Swaybar & Endlink Upgrade

Jack,

I had the rear swaybar and endlinks done, I'm lucky enough to have a friend that is a Honda mechanic, it took him no time to do it. Did you have any issues after the upgrade, new sounds or noises, any new rear differential noises. You can really tell the difference with the thicker rear SB, it is nearly 2x the size of the old one. I'm hearing some new sounds from the area of the rear dif, was curious if you heard anything. Please let me know
 
#19 ·
No sounds from mine at all, all is very smooth and quiet, as if it was OE.

Noise in that are due to a thicker sway could be:
1) no grease/lube between swaybar and bushing
2) bushing too tight for the now thicker swaybar
3) incorrect geometry due to endlink/swaybar combo and the pieces are not not working well together (endlinks too long/too short, swaybar too thick for the size of endlinks, etc)

What pieces did you use for this upgrade?
 
#20 ·
Swaybar & Endlink Upgrade

Jack,

I used everything that you listed, same rear links from Kartboy, same front links from Rallitek, 2010 TL rear swaybar, TL rubber bushings. I did not have the bushing lubricated, what do you recommend as a lube for the bushings. Did you use any of ther spacers supplied from Kartboy, I did not since I did not see them on any of the pictures you posted. Would the length of the bolt (2.5 inches) be too long? Any suggestions
 
#21 ·
I did not use the spacers and I used generic ball bearing grease as it 's tough as nails and thus hard to remove when going through car washes.

What sort of noise are you hearing? Is is clingy (metal-on-metal)? And under what conditions (turning, braking, accelerating, getting in the car)?

If it 's metal-on-metal than make sure your suspension (right rear) looks like this when it 's compressed (aka: when the car is sitting on all 4, not when it 's lifted...if a bolt is too long when the suspension is relax, it may then hit something once it settles and when driven). Make sure no bolt is touching anything and most importantly that the bend in the swaybar is facing like the one in my pic here, hopefully the sway is not installed backwards or that the endlinks have not been bolted behind the holding plate, either scenario would result in metal-on-metal noise and binding in the suspension(

 
#22 ·
Swaybar & Endlink Upgrade

Jack,

The noise I hear is when I'm turning to the left mostly when pulling into a parking space. We will go over the install again, we will lube the bushings and re-torque the nuts, just a precaution, I will get shorter bolts. I have your pictures as a reference to insure the swaybar is in correctly. Thanks again
 
#23 ·
Those end links have a specific top/bottom- not sure if that would matter.
I'm installing the swaybar this weekend using the TL bushing and reusing the stock end links, we'll see how that works. I like to use a waterproof silicone or teflon grease for bushings. Don't use a petroleum based grease as it can degregate the rubber.
 
#24 ·
Installed the TL rear bar last weekend and kept the stock links. Lubed with silicone grease (waterproof). I highly recommend this simple cheap mod for all. If you can turn a wrench, you can do this mod. The stock sway is 15mm on the 4WD and the TL is 20mm. 33% more bar and it seems better matched than stock.
I then added new 255/55-18 Conti Extreme Contact DWS's on 18x8 Acura TL A-spec gunmetal wheels with a 45mm offset. This really made the package. Widens the track by over 2" with a larger contact patch. What a beast it is now. Handles, tracks, brakes and corners better. Slightly more road noise is the trade off. Ride is still excellent. This wheel setup is only 3lbs heavier per corner than stock with a 29" tire O.D vs stocks 28.7".
Dealing with getting the new sensors to sync, but that will come. Dealer is kinda clueless.
 
#25 ·
Rear Swaybar & Endlink Upgrade

Jack,

Do you know what is the size of the 2010 TL AWD rear swaybar? The CT rear is 14mm. I'm still hearing noise when I turn to the left, I lubed the bushings as well. I'm looking at polyurathane bushings, I need to know the diameter of the TL rear swaybar to order the correct bushing. The body roll is gone, the car drives great, its the noise that bugs me. Thanks
 
#26 ·
Jack,

Do you know what is the size of the 2010 TL AWD rear swaybar? The CT rear is 14mm. I'm still hearing noise when I turn to the left, I lubed the bushings as well. I'm looking at polyurathane bushings, I need to know the diameter of the TL rear swaybar to order the correct bushing. The body roll is gone, the car drives great, its the noise that bugs me. Thanks
Hey did you ever figure this out? I'm thinking about doing this upgrade.

Also, what is the ballpark cost of these parts?

Thx!
 
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